[zach97]

Hi I am new to the forum, I bought a dodge dakota sport ('98) and just got it running after replacing the breaks and ball joints on it, the original battery was dead so I replaced it with another older one I had laying around and that one died shortly after, put a brand new battery in it after that and when I was out doing errands I turned the ignition to start her up and nothing, no noise or anything, the battery was completely dead. Had to have someone help me jump it and sped home quickly. As soon as I shut it off when I got home and turned the key again it wouldnt turn on. I am assuming this is an alternator problem but does anyone know if it could be anything else? Sorry if I sound dumb for asking but I'm a new driver and haven't really had the truck for long

It's a 5.2L v8 if that information helps.

 

[TazRango]

At first glance it could be the alternator, but a couple things point to different issues..

Mainly that it appears completely flat after being running. Dodge trucks are extremely bitchy when it comes to the battery voltage being low. They refuse to idle correctly. So if you got a couple minutes of jumpstart, and the alternator wasn't putting anything out, it would want to die as soon as you take your foot off the gas.

Not only that, but if there is enough juice in the battery to keep the truck running until you turn it off (voluntarily), there should be at least enough to make things come on and make noise (radio, gauges, IAC motor, blower, etc) when you turn the key on. You should also have some degree of lighting even when the truck is off.. Do the interior lights/headlights work at all when this happens - even if they're extremely dim?

My guess is you have corrosion on the battery cable terminals, or maybe one or both were replaced with those cheapo bolt-on replacement terminals and they have failed. New batteries also come with a lacquer coating on their terminals that you're supposed to clean off before you install it.

Hit everything with a terminal cleaner. They're like $4 at any parts store.

If you have those cheapo terminals, replace them - preferably replace the whole cable with a premade one - again available at any parts store.

 

[zach97]

I opened the door to try the key and the lights were on so I figured it may have been working again but as soon as I turned the key nothing turned on.. I took some pictures of the battery and alternator.

 

[TazRango]

That fluffy white crap in the terminal clamps is corrosion. You have to clean them before you go any further. Like I said go get yourself one of those terminal cleaners. You use the hole in the bottom to clean the battery posts, then you pull the cap off and use the arrow-shaped end to clean out the clamps.

 

[Cloned_R/T]

If that doesn't do the trick which I'm also on board with as it being the main problem. It could also be a bad starter solenoid. Even a bad ground somewhere.

I've seen some bad corrosion on other grounding spots in various cars/trucks when I worked at a salvage yard last year. It was the reason why some of those vehicles ended up in the yard when they really didn't need to.

 

[TazRango]

Starter solenoid wouldn't kill the ASD and PCM to the point where there's no "key-on" noises like the IAC resetting.. But rotten grounds are absolutely another possibility.

 

[dusterdan70]

You use the hole in the bottom to clean the battery posts, then you pull the cap off and use the arrow-shaped end to clean out the clamps.

Then dip the clamps in a solution of water and baking soda to neutralize the acid for good....Just a couple tablespoons of baking soda in a cup of water

 

[Arisley]

Or splash come Coca-Cola on them.

 

[zach97]

I'm having another problem, when I bought the truck in the fuse box there was no fuse for daytime driving lights, so I got one from the wreckers and popped her in and thought it would be fine, about a minute later there was smoke coming out of a small little box with a bunch of wires going into it (Not sure what it's called), lets just say that it melted everything and almost started a fire and now I'm not sure how I am going to fix it.. I got a few of the same boxes from the wreckers and bought one brand new but they all end up smoking and melting (important: lights stay on and wont shut off when the fuse is in) for right now I'm keeping the fuse out, but when it comes to yearly inspection (it's an out of province truck) I will fail because of this, I was told to check the wiring for a short or something but not sure where it exactly leads or how to fix it.

 

[Tapper]

nobody even said test the voltage at the battery... sheesh.

if you were driving and all was fine then went out to start it and nothing happened it wouldnt be alternator the vehicle would have died before you even shut it off yourself if the bat were that dead and the alt was shot.

check voltage - ideal is around 12.6v

if there is voltage > 10v then check G1 main ground - facing engine on your left bolted to the wheel well will be a few black wires on this little bolt post. remove it, clean it, tighten it good.

if does not fix - get a multi meter and a friend and ground to bare metal on the frame with black and with red connect to the starter solenoid (the little wire on the starter) (you'll have to be under the truck) and when your buddy turns the key watch for a voltage spike

if no voltage spike - clutch pedal position switch or neutral safety switch

if voltage spike and no crank - replace starter

shoddy G1 and loose/corroded battery cables will do exactly as described. lights will be on woo hoo then you climb in turn key and bam nothing happens

 

[TazRango]

Unless you're using a load tester, the battery voltage means nothing - hence why nobody told him to test it. It can have a 12 volt surface charge and still be dead. Just like his corroded clamps can pass the small current for the dome lights, but not much else.

Not only that, but he's getting nothing from the key. No sounds, no IAC, no click, no nothing. That has nothing to do with the clutch switch/bypass/NSS or the starter solenoid.