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BCDakota's sas thread

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4Lo

· Frog Legs
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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well since I am serious about doing my swap I am starting my own thread to ask questions and post pictures and production of my build.

2003 Dakota CC V6

Axles:

Front 1977 HP Dana 44 4.56 open

The rear ford 9ìnch. 4.56 and lockright

The Plan:

Leaf springs 44044's in the front

Shackle reversal in the rear with blocks.....for now.

I want to run 35-37in tires.
 
#2 ·
I ran 38's and now have 37's. I measured and I am about 8.75+/- than a stock dakota based off of Rebel's instructions for measuring. If the front axle was another 2" forward the truck could be lower. If I move the axle I am going to use a rear facing pitman arm so I can keep the stock steering box/location. I have 4.5" of up travel, about 2.5" before it hits the bumpstops.

These are brand new 37's
Image


I think that your that your t-case engaging has nothing to do with the front axle. What are you using fro a speed sensor?

If you could afford it you should find a set of coilovers, even a used set, rather than use the coils.

Kevin
 
Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
Who made your front cross member/ spring hanger

The rear speed sensor is for speedo up to 20km/h so to answer your question I will eliminate it. I am going to disco mine and test drive it to make sure first though.

Are you guys boxing or plating the inside of the front frame rails (the part of the frame nearest the radiator) when going leaf springs??

How did rebel have you measure?
 
#7 ·
A 8-9 inch variable rate lift coil should do the the job, But you will find that you are going to hit the top of the front fender well way before your front suspension reaches its full flex potential on 37-38 inch tires, If you have to make budget adjustments dont cut the long travel extended radius arms and go with stock, You can find them new and 12 inchs longer than stock for as cheap as $475.00 a set. I cut them out of my budget and went with stock and that was not a smart move. Also be sure to weld your axle tubes to your housing, This is a must do on this kind of long travel suspension/Front drive-train. Just another hard lesson I have learned over the years:jester:
 
Discussion starter · #8 · (Edited)
myrtlebeachbst said:
A 8-9 inch variable rate lift coil should do the the job, But you will find that you are going to hit the top of the front fender well way before your front suspension reaches its full flex potential on 37-38 inch tires, If you have to make budget adjustments dont cut the long travel extended radius arms and go with stock, You can find them new and 12 inchs longer than stock for as cheap as $475.00 a set. I cut them out of my budget and went with stock and that was not a smart move. Also be sure to weld your axle tubes to your housing, This is a must do on this kind of long travel suspension/Front drive-train. Just another hard lesson I have learned over the years:jester:
Click to expand...
Which radius arms do you run myrtle?? :huh:

Do you have any flexy shots of your truck or just poser shots??:stirthepo


How can I get me speed sensor hooked up if I use the 9inch??

Ima thinkin I need to run a 60 in the rear or stay stock 8.25 and run spacers.

Edit: Speed sensor sorted out
 
#9 ·
4Lo said:
Which radius arms do you run myrtle?? :huh:

Do you have any flexy shots of your truck or just poser shots??:stirthepo


How can I get me speed sensor hooked up if I use the 9inch??

Ima thinkin I need to run a 60 in the rear or stay stock 8.25 and run spacers.
Click to expand...
Dont know alot about it, but couldnt you use a rear axle from a dodge ram 3/4 or 1ton so you would still have a speed sensor to plug in? I ave read this somewhere but have yet to find out where.
 
#10 ·
4Lo said:
Which radius arms do you run myrtle?? :huh:

Do you have any flexy shots of your truck or just poser shots??:stirthepo


How can I get me speed sensor hooked up if I use the 9inch??

Ima thinkin I need to run a 60 in the rear or stay stock 8.25 and run spacers.
Click to expand...
Use a SYE and then get a tone ring cut for the tcase output. I have pictures of it done somewhere.

Kevin
 
#12 · (Edited)
4Lo said:
Which radius arms do you run myrtle?? :huh:

Do you have any flexy shots of your truck or just poser shots??:stirthepo


How can I get me speed sensor hooked up if I use the 9inch??

Ima thinkin I need to run a 60 in the rear or stay stock 8.25 and run spacers.
Click to expand...
Mine are stock arms but to achieve lift I had to add a radius arm truss which cuts down on ground clearance and when flexed out puts alot of strain on my axle wedges and C bushings

Image

Image

The truck has more rear flex now and I will have new pics soon. Thanks, Chris
 
#13 ·
extended radius arms for $475?

You can find them new and 12 inchs longer than stock for as cheap as $475.00 a set.
Click to expand...
I'm curious as to where you found extended radius arms for $475. Everywhere I have found them, they're $650 - $850. I'd like to know cause I will be in the market soon myself. I'm lining up a HP D44 now. Oh yeah.... and the guy that has the 44 is gonna fix me up with some 6 lug chevy outers so I can get a wheel spacer (lug converter) for the back to have 6 on 5.5 all the way around. That's gonna be sweet.

I will have a bunch of question for you too Myrtle, once I get started. I wil be collecting parts at first, simply because I don't have anything else to drive right now. The wife's car will be paid off with income tax refund money. Then it'll be truck shopping for me. Then I can get stared on something with the D.
 
#14 ·
mtndewnut said:
I'm curious as to where you found extended radius arms for $475. Everywhere I have found them, they're $650 - $850. I'd like to know cause I will be in the market soon myself. I'm lining up a HP D44 now. Oh yeah.... and the guy that has the 44 is gonna fix me up with some 6 lug chevy outers so I can get a wheel spacer (lug converter) for the back to have 6 on 5.5 all the way around. That's gonna be sweet.

I will have a bunch of question for you too Myrtle, once I get started. I wil be collecting parts at first, simply because I don't have anything else to drive right now. The wife's car will be paid off with income tax refund money. Then it'll be truck shopping for me. Then I can get stared on something with the D.
Click to expand...
:wave:I should of checked current prices, You are right, Damn has the cost gone up:rant:.

For those who are not familiar with this set-up, The radius arm is circled in this pic. :sorry: I could not find a way to enlarge it

Image

78-79 Ford Bronco and 1967-79 Ford F150 Radius-arms are interchangeable
 
#16 ·
Why not just wrist a stock arm? Or a 3 link/radius arm setup? It will flex better, and I don't see the point in doing the SAS if you need to use a drop braket to run stock Ford parts. If your going to put the money into the truck, why not just design the suspension around a better designed link system than a factory part?

Kevin
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Ok hijack over.:sorry:

As far as steering goes I have to install a new steering box and was wondering what you guys thought. I have heard that a box out of a fullsize jeep aka j20 will work. What else works any ideas??
 
#20 ·
4Lo said:
Also found this http://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/215820-abs-equipped-9-a.html to solve the VSS situation. Saweet.:D:woot:
Click to expand...
I have considered this option more times than you can think of, and the only thing that may hold you back from doing this is getting the hole in the differential housing drilled perfectly correct in order for it to read correctly on the tone ring. Remember that the housing is cast iron, and if the hole is in the wrong position, then it's hard to get it the right one once a hole has been drilled.
 
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