[sick 660r]

What are some symptoms of too much timing and to little timing. Im having some problems with my timing since it started getting cold and I dont think its the a/f because it was at 11.3 when I was 60* and now its around 30.

 

[bad360rt]

Have you looked at your plugs? What's the truck doing? What are you running for a pcm? Do you have any kind of timing retard?

 

[TraMotorsports]

Why do you have it running so rich?

 

[sick 660r]

I thought it was 11.3 but I looked at the dyno sheet and its actually 11.6 but the temps get down to around 10* sometimes and I dont want to have to worry abot going lean. I will explain my problem tonight but I have to go right now

 

[TraMotorsports]

oh ok

 

[sick 660r]

Ok here it goes. Ever since in installed a paxton supercharger I have had a stutter at 3k about when I hit full boost (10.8 psi). Now since I did a wet/dry compression test it happens all the time. It seems to always happen when its at wot and only once and a while when I ease into it, but only when the engine is under load (not in neutral). It feels like it is hitting the revlimiter and starts poping. I used to be able to solve this by increasing the starting point of the timing retard but that no longer works. My current setting is 4.75 start point and .5 on the btm. The thing is when I rase the btm higher it gets worse, and when I set it to 0 it runs the best. The guy at my dyno says its reading boost to fast therfore taking it out to fast and I need to get the inline vacume restrictor out of a fmu from a procharger. I also called msd and they said I may not have enough timing to begin with, or that the spark could be blowing out. They said I may need a msd 6al. My pcm is stock, spark plugs are autolite 3922 set at .034 gap.

 

[TraMotorsports]

I would start by lowering the gap on the plugs to about between .026 and .030 and see if that helps any. from there give it a little more timing and adjust with the BTM. do it in small increments if you can and just see how the truck reacts to it.

 

[sick 660r]

I took the sparkplugs down to .030 and no difference but I did notice I wants go go lean around 3k so Ive been driving around without going above 2.5k. Tomorrow Im taking it to the dyno and putting a fuel pressure guage in it and bumping up the fuel pressure. Could I use a small fuel pressure gague that goes on the fuel rail or fuel line to monitor/adjust the fuel pressure?

 

[mopar318]

I took the sparkplugs down to .030 and no difference but I did notice I wants go go lean around 3k so Ive been driving around without going above 2.5k. Tomorrow Im taking it to the dyno and putting a fuel pressure guage in it and bumping up the fuel pressure. Could I use a small fuel pressure gague that goes on the fuel rail or fuel line to monitor/adjust the fuel pressure?

Yep you can use a small 100 psi Gauge. I belive its a 4AN fitting ont he fuel rail.

 

[sick 660r]

Yep you can use a small 100 psi Gauge. I belive its a 4AN fitting ont he fuel rail.

Thanks Ill do that tomorrow. The thing is I dont understand why its going lean. I was driving around when I was about 20* a couple of weeks ago and it was fine and tonight it was 30*. Ever since the wet/dry compression test its been giving me trouble.

 

[crow318]

Why does everyone have this fitting on their fuel rails but me. I must have a leftover from something else :cussing:

 

[mopar318]

Why does everyone have this fitting on their fuel rails but me. I must have a leftover from something else :cussing:

Its the shrader valve for checking fuel pressure. You have to take the valve stem out..and you can run a gauge.

 

[janesy]

Why does everyone have this fitting on their fuel rails but me. I must have a leftover from something else :cussing:

some of the newr years did not have them.

 

[rock1717]

I noticed you run the Autolite plugs. I ran the NGK's when I first did my SC and then changed them out to the Autolite's but when I had the Autolite's I noticed a big difference in the truck with the AutoL's. It seemed to just fall short in the power band, it would never come alive like it did before. Also it would not go into boost as smooth as before. I also have a fuel pressure gauge and wide band meter to see what all is going on. When the AutoL plugs where in the truck I noticed the fuel pressure would move up/down at different times, like at idle or when it went into boost. I also noticed the A/F gauge was all over the place. At first I was thinking what is going on, played around with some different things and got nothing. I then put new NGK's back in and problem went away.My thought on that is the AutoL’s just didn’t have a good controlled spark as the NGK’s. I do know the truck didn’t like them at all. Now I pull plugs every 2 mouths to check them and replace them every year to year and half when I would drive the truck every day. I now run the NGK Iridium plugs. I noticed a big difference when I changed to these plugs from just the plain NGK’s.

This might not be your problem but just thought I would give you something to look at.
:biggthump

 

[sick 660r]

I noticed you run the Autolite plugs. I ran the NGK's when I first did my SC and then changed them out to the Autolite's but when I had the Autolite's I noticed a big difference in the truck with the AutoL's. It seemed to just fall short in the power band, it would never come alive like it did before. Also it would not go into boost as smooth as before. I also have a fuel pressure gauge and wide band meter to see what all is going on. When the AutoL plugs where in the truck I noticed the fuel pressure would move up/down at different times, like at idle or when it went into boost. I also noticed the A/F gauge was all over the place. At first I was thinking what is going on, played around with some different things and got nothing. I then put new NGK's back in and problem went away.My thought on that is the AutoL’s just didn’t have a good controlled spark as the NGK’s. I do know the truck didn’t like them at all. Now I pull plugs every 2 mouths to check them and replace them every year to year and half when I would drive the truck every day. I now run the NGK Iridium plugs. I noticed a big difference when I changed to these plugs from just the plain NGK’s.

This might not be your problem but just thought I would give you something to look at.
:biggthump

I will have to give that a try. Im desperate at this point. For a update. I got the inline vacume reducer and from procharger and put it before the msd. It seemed to help with the stutter/back fire, but now its just going lean and random times. I was at about 4.5k half throttle doing about 90 and all of a sudden it just fell flat on its face, my narrowband a/f said it went lean. I ordered a autometer fuel pressure gauge and a innovative wideband. Im really scared of sending a rod through the block so im not going to mess with it until I get the new gauges in. Also how do you check injectors to see if the cloged? Keep the ideas coming.

 

[rock1717]

I will have to give that a try. Im desperate at this point. For a update. I got the inline vacume reducer and from procharger and put it before the msd. It seemed to help with the stutter/back fire, but now its just going lean and random times. I was at about 4.5k half throttle doing about 90 and all of a sudden it just fell flat on its face, my narrowband a/f said it went lean. I ordered a autometer fuel pressure gauge and a innovative wideband. Im really scared of sending a rod through the block so im not going to mess with it until I get the new gauges in. Also how do you check injectors to see if the cloged? Keep the ideas coming.

As for the injectors being checked you will have to find a local shop and bring them in. They have a flow test they will do on them.

What about gas? I'm not wondering if have some bad gas.

Also doesn't the procharger S/C system run some type of standalone system for control of the injectors? If so could it be bad or going bad?

As for the inovative wideband that is what I have. There a really nice systems.

 

[sick 660r]

As for the injectors being checked you will have to find a local shop and bring them in. They have a flow test they will do on them.

What about gas? I'm not wondering if have some bad gas.

Also doesn't the procharger S/C system run some type of standalone system for control of the injectors? If so could it be bad or going bad?

As for the inovative wideband that is what I have. There a really nice systems.

Ive had this problem for about 3 weeks and ive gone to alot of gas stations so I dont think its the gas. I bought a inline vacume reducer from procharger, I have a paxton. Just got the wideband today and it looks like really good quality, cant wait to get it in.

 

[sick 660r]

I CANT FIGURE THIS OUT :rant: I just set my ful sync to as close as i can to +4 and nothing at all, but I got this code P1391 (M) Intermittent Loss Of CMP Or CKP Loss of the cam positon sensor or crank position sensor has occurred. For PL 2.0L. I put the inline fuel vacume in and messed with the btm's starting point and nothing changed. I DONT KNOW WHAT TO DO. JUST put the fuel pressure guages in and I am always between 54-58 psi. Im seriously about ready to sell everything and get another truck. Please help

 

[bandit01]

I had a similar problem awhile back, but I fixed it. When I would punch it to wot, the truck would start to take off, but then about 3k rpm or a little higher. The truck would not let you continued to accelerate. It would act as if it hit a rev limiter or was seizing. It would not let you pass the 3K+ rpm range. If I would slowly ease into the throttle to wot it would be ok. When I would try to hit it at 20, 30, or 50 mph it would down shift fine and start to take off, but then get stuck at 3K+rpm. The truck would rev fine and freely to redline in neutral or park. Does this sound like the same problem that you are having?

 

[sick 660r]

I had a similar problem awhile back, but I fixed it. When I would punch it to wot, the truck would start to take off, but then about 3k rpm or a little higher. The truck would not let you continued to accelerate. It would act as if it hit a rev limiter or was seizing. It would not let you pass the 3K+ rpm range. If I would slowly ease into the throttle to wot it would be ok. When I would try to hit it at 20, 30, or 50 mph it would down shift fine and start to take off, but then get stuck at 3K+rpm. The truck would rev fine and freely to redline in neutral or park. Does this sound like the same problem that you are having?

It sounds exactly like my problem, could you please tell me what you did to fix it.