Has the IAC been replaced? You didn't specify...I'd definetly replace it if you haven't yet.

 

Yes. It's unfortunately nothing obvious/common.

 

Does it do it if you put it "neutral" before it stalls?

 

90% of the time it won't stall if I throw it in N before approaching the turn. This is why I've turned to the tranny sensors. I've come to the point to where I'd say that it's definitely speed and load oriented. It's a common problem with these trucks. Unfortunately, only once have I found the last post of someone's thread on this topic being 'case-closed' happy ending ( ). No one reports back to thier thread as to what actually ended up being the cause of this problem.

Again, it's not the "sometimes it does it" or "dies at random on the hwy" woes that usually end up being a short somewhere (batt. terminal and ign. wires being common), or a faulty IAC valve. It only custs off while taking a turn downhill or on level ground where the go pedal isn't in use, and occasionally while coming to a stop at a stop sign or light. A dead or faulty IAC will have issues such as an occasionally eratic idle (high and/or low), and/or engine dieing as soon as the throttle is closed. Also sometimes when the A/C clutch engages (assuming that is isn't just a dirty TB). Different scenario, unfortunately. A dead IAC valve would be pie to fix. Late trannies and thier electronics on the other hand are foreign to me...

 

I ask about putting it "neutral" before it stalls because my 4.7l/auto has done when stopping st a red light or stop sign. I never did find the cause. It will happen a few times over several days and then it just stops acting up. Feels like the 45-RFE and 4.7L are locked together and stalling when the truck comes to a stop. This has been a issue for over a year now. Happens more offten when the motor and 45-RFE are cold and/or its cold outside.

Footnote: The 4.7L block was replaced about a year ago and the stalling did not go away.

 

It's typically the 4.7/45 combo when I read of this problem, but I do read of the 3.9/5.2/5.9's having the same issue as well. It's exactly as you're describing. I'm convinced that the culprit is faulty speed sensing and/or fluid pressure regulation equip. in the tranny. It makes more sense than anything else, but I just can't for the life of me get confirmation. @ the absurd cost of the sensors, I didn't want to have to trial an error this, but I guess I have no choice.

If anyone out there needs a kidney, or would just like a spare, I accept cash, checks and CC's...

 

I vaguely remember a thread about this same issue - where the engine stalled when taking turns at low speeds or while coasting around a turn. If I recall correctly the culprit was actually some sort of sensor at the power steering pump. I think it's supposed to sense the increased pressure/load and up the idle speed just like the system does when the AC compressor is engaged. It might not even be related, because I can't see how going into neutral would help the situation.

Does the engine ever stall in a similar situation but without turning at the same time?

 

Not near as often, but it has stalled a few times nearing straight stops (signs/lights). I no longer have pwr steering (non-related, performance reasons), and don't recall any sensors around the pump, but good call for sure. They certainly do bog while turning the wheel. It does fight it (stumbles) a little before it dies, but it is more of a load than the PS pump pulls. Probably equal to or slightly greater than that of the A/C clutch (a load you can feel in the pedal). Once the tach starts to tap dance on about 500 and it starts to sputter, because of the cam (220-ish @ .05), there's no self-revival. I have to stab the gas to revive it. Once I do that, though, it goes right back to running fine. So far, left-foot braking and slightly holding the gas has been more successful than throwing it in N (died anyway like that tonight - I probably just caught it too late, though). If I didn't live in the city (Atlanta), I'd deal. This sort of stuff is a PITB here, though. A smaller guy or girl would've T-boned someone by now...

 

Turning not the cause in the case of my dak.

 

If your tranny fluid is low it can cause the torque converter to stay in lock up mode (no slippage). I've seen it twice after fluid changes.

 

Fluid level was the first thing that I checked when my tranny 'hunch' grew. I didn't know about the low-level lock-up ordeal, I just checked it by fluke (start small, right?...). That's good to know, though.

 

did you ever find a fix for stalling during stops on your dakota? I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota 4.7 and it's stalling during most of the stops. No CEL. Cleaned TB still same thing.

 

I also have a 2000 dakota 4.7L and am experiencing the same problems. Taking a left on a green light the other day when it happened again. Luckily nobody was coming while I coasted my rolling brick out of the way. At this point I need to take it in before I get busted up at an intersection. I will post the fix here if I figure it out.

 

Has anyone figured this out? My 2000 Durango just started to do this at stops only after being on the freeway. The idle jumps around and then it will sometimes stalls. I changed the air filter and spark plugs. My truck is stock. Shows no engine codes.

 

I have a 2000 Dakota and this problem was serious enough I brought it in (before I cause an accident). The throttle body was gunked up pretty good but the CEL was P0108 which is the Manifold Absolute Pressure sensor gone bad. They replaced the MAP sensor and it's been 3 weeks and I haven't had the problem since. I also had some other codes (P0455, P0442) but they are evap emissions leak codes and unrelated because I've had them long before this problem cropped up. I suggest replacing the MAP sensor before bringing it in because they will fist you for the factory part.

 

I had this problem and my issue was the MAP sensor. I replaced pretty much everything you did plus I even changed the fuel pump. so I would try the MAP sensor

 

I'm having the same issue.
yesterday, out of the blue, my '00 Durango started dying every time i took my foot off the gas.

I got a P0108 code (MAP Sensor high voltage), so i replaced it today.

after replacing the MAP sensor, the code is gone, but it's still happening, albeit not as often. when idling in park, it's pretty rough, around 600, will drop a bit, and right before it dies, will bump up a bit. yesterday it would just straight up die.

Over Memorial Weekend, i replaced the Crank Sensor, IAC, TPS, Battery, and also cleaned the throttle body.
Sprayed around the engine compartment, and intake, looking for vaccum leaks, to no avail.


I really need to find a solution, as this is my only vehicle right now. :frown:

 

I have 2007 Dakota 4.7 quad cab flex fuel doing the same thing. It just spent 2 days at Dodge on 2 different computers and came home without a fix. I replaced the cam sensor but that did not help. When it runs it purrs.

 

When you turn, the engine moves especially if the engine mounts are worn. If the engine harness is close to metal edges, it's possible the insulation on a wire has worn through and you get an intermittent short as the engine sways on a turn. Since this only happens on a turn, that is where you should look first before throwing any parts at the problem and wasting money. A PCM or MAP sensor would not do that only on a turn.

 

Thank you for the reply. That is a good idea however this was a very slow, under 15 mph turn with little or no throttle. I turn faster on the highway or from a stop light and have never lost it doing that. Would that matter?

 

Does the idle drop really low on slow turns? If there is a PS switch on the steering rack, perhaps it is not giving the correct input to the PCM. Look at other possibilities for a low idle speed like a gunked up throttle body or IAC.

 

Typically no. When this happens it's a total instant drop of everything. This has only happened once to me but several times before to my mother who had the vehicle before me. I am not sure what a PS switch is. I know the top of the throttle body looked good but I never thought to check the bottom which is what a video I just watched did. Thanks for the information you have provided so far.

 

PS switch is a power steering switch that senses when more rpms are needed to overcome steering pressure. It would be near the top of the steering rack. More steering effort is needed at lower speed turns. If you ever drove a car with manual steering, you would appreciate how much the power assist helps.
Definitely remove and clean the throttle body from underneath.

 

I am sort of glad I found this feed, I have an 06 durango that stalls either when turning or slowing to a stop and I'm about ready to sell it! I hope someone finds a fix.

I'm going to try looking into the above mentioned items and if I find a fix I'll holler!

 

Did you find a fix? i have same problem.

 

So here's a question no one's asking, when the stalling occurs what is your fuel gauge reading or fuel level at the time the concern happens?
Here's why I ask, I recently purchased and rebuilt a 03 Dakota with the 4.7l. After I worked out all the bugs and got the truck running again I started having the same issue. I noticed however that the stalling would only occur when the fuel level was at about an eighth of a tank. Once I put fuel in the truck just minuets after the truck stalled consistently coming to a stop, the stalling ceased. My thinking is because the 24 gallon tank is so long, even having say 6 gallons in the tank is going to spread it thin. While coming to a stop even slowly the fluid dynamics of shifting momentum shifts the fluid so the pump cannot reach it while at a lower pressure from not using the accelerator.