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Diabloed

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I was almost ready to start taking off all my hadles to get them painted. Then I thought about eventually I want a tonneau cover, and before I go to the pains of painting the handle I should look for one that is lockable. Anyone know of "factory style" locking tailgate handles?

I also wanted to know if one of the door handles would work in it's place?
 
You'd have to do a lot of tinkering to get the door lock assemblies to lock the tailgate. There's a product called the Bully tailgate lock that runs about $30, but i don't think it will use your regular key.

If you have power locks, there is a product from Pace Edwards called the Power Gate that uses a door lock solenoid, costs about twice as much. That's what i used on my Dak. Installation was pretty easy, but i found i had to cut a notch in the plate that bars the handle assembly in order to get the handle to "catch" in lock mode.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
...dave said:
If you have power locks, there is a product from Pace Edwards called the Power Gate that uses a door lock solenoid, costs about twice as much. That's what i used on my Dak. Installation was pretty easy, but i found i had to cut a notch in the plate that bars the handle assembly in order to get the handle to "catch" in lock mode.
This might be my best route, if they don't make an after market handle. Since you actually have one can you explain how it holds the handle from opening?


P.S. I thinking about challenging you to your "title" in your sig!
 
I have one on my truck wich is called pop'n lock (or something like that)
My brother has the bully one... and let me tell you that the bully is the way to go... installed in less than 30 mins... look pretty OEM....
I'll try to find pics of both....

This one is mine (Pop'n Lock)
 
OK... so just went outside and took pics of my brother's tailgate handle... (srry it's dark outside and snowy :cussing: )

The reason y Bully is better is that it holds the handle better in the locked position... the lock is in the middle of the handle so it's harder to try and break the handle...
 
i had the bully one, and it wasn't bad. but i broke two of the tabs on it when removing it once to paint it and the rest of the handle. So i just threw it out. Now i have an electric one that i got from summit that mounts inside the tailgate. I got it on clearance for $42.50 but they dont sell them anymore. If you look around im sure you could find one made by someone else though. Its really nice because all you have to do is wire it to the door locks and then it locks and unlocks with your doors.
 
My Bully crapped out on me...doesn't lock in either position. Just found it out the other day when I went to lock it and guess what...it still opened. Looks like I'll be taking a trip to Pep Boys to return the POS.
 
Reading over the post on the pop and lock......

Does yours completely lock? I used to lock mine... and my friend was being an ass and was like I can still open it. Well he did just by giving a good yank on the door handle (Though not strong enough to break anything). It kind of bugs me and makes me want to almost take it out since the paint is peeling off and its kind of useless.

I've been looking at the electric locks myself aswell, and I might go that route.
 
Diabloed said:
This might be my best route, if they don't make an after market handle. Since you actually have one can you explain how it holds the handle from opening?


P.S. I thinking about challenging you to your "title" in your sig!
It's been a while since i installed it, but basically, it's got a standard power lock actuator mounted to a bracket, which fits between the existing lock assembly and the inside of the tailgate. Also attached to the bracket is a metal plate (i think everything's aluminum, but i could be wrong) that is moved back and forth by the actuator.

Now, if you look at the inside of your tailgate latch, the external handle is attached to an angled steel bracket that folds outwards to disengage the locks. When the actuator goes to "lock" mode, it slides a metal plate underneath that bracket to jam it. Since the internal portion of the handle is angled, until i notched the handle, i was able to force it to slide over the metal plate. Now the notch catches the plate. The plate is relatively thin (maybe 1/16"?), but 1/2" tall, and is well-secured in a pair of hard plastic bushings, which are mounted on the backing plate, which is of course mounted to the tailgate and latch assembly.

Now, this isn't as good a solution as your ordinary car door lock assembly that disengages the handle from the lock mechanism, but it holds up pretty well. i've tried to force it, to the point where i backed off out of fear that i'd break the plastic handle, and it did not give. However, by doing so, something in the assembly, possibly the hinge, dimpled the paint above the lock. i don't doubt that the whole mess could be ripped out in about twenty seconds with a crowbar, but it's enough to deter the casual thief, which is really the most you can hope for with most vehicle security.

Cheers,

...dave
 
...dave said:
If you have power locks, there is a product from Pace Edwards called the Power Gate that uses a door lock solenoid, costs about twice as much. That's what i used on my Dak. Installation was pretty easy, but i found i had to cut a notch in the plate that bars the handle assembly in order to get the handle to "catch" in lock mode.
I have the same lock, works great! I just had to open the mounting holes a little to get it to line up.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
...dave said:
It's been a while since i installed it, but basically, it's got a standard power lock actuator mounted to a bracket, which fits between the existing lock assembly and the inside of the tailgate. Also attached to the bracket is a metal plate (i think everything's aluminum, but i could be wrong) that is moved back and forth by the actuator.

Now, if you look at the inside of your tailgate latch, the external handle is attached to an angled steel bracket that folds outwards to disengage the locks. When the actuator goes to "lock" mode, it slides a metal plate underneath that bracket to jam it. Since the internal portion of the handle is angled, until i notched the handle, i was able to force it to slide over the metal plate. Now the notch catches the plate. The plate is relatively thin (maybe 1/16"?), but 1/2" tall, and is well-secured in a pair of hard plastic bushings, which are mounted on the backing plate, which is of course mounted to the tailgate and latch assembly.

Now, this isn't as good a solution as your ordinary car door lock assembly that disengages the handle from the lock mechanism, but it holds up pretty well. i've tried to force it, to the point where i backed off out of fear that i'd break the plastic handle, and it did not give. However, by doing so, something in the assembly, possibly the hinge, dimpled the paint above the lock. i don't doubt that the whole mess could be ripped out in about twenty seconds with a crowbar, but it's enough to deter the casual thief, which is really the most you can hope for with most vehicle security.

Cheers,

...dave

Thanks a ton! I think this is the route I'll be going when ever I pony up for a tonneau.
 
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