Now i dont know if this would work, but doesnt ceramic stuff dispurse heat? I was thinking you could paint the "overflow" tank with some Dupli Color ceramic paint and it would help cool the coolant. Any input?
cooling the coolant
KREWZER
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DownBoi said:
ummmmm, no. besides the engine never sees the fluid from the overflow tank unless it loses and needs some.
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are you tryin to cool the coolant more in order to cool the motor more?
No matter how cool you get the coolant it sits in your engine until the thermostat opens and allows that coolant to circulate. The cooler coolant would drop the temp at quicker rate causing the stat to close sooner, but it would then sit there until reaches the same temp again.
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thats the reason i asked, i once tried to get the coolant cooler to lower the motor temp when i went to the strip but soon remembered the tstat, you can still do it if you removed ur tstat, i remember some old chevy owners use to do that in the summer but reinstall in winter, but if ya just want to keep the temp down to feel better bout the motor slap on an e-fan w/ adjustable temp control set at ur tstat temp.
Those "old chevy owners" weren't too smart either. By removing the stat eventually all of the coolant reaches the same temperature. If that temp gets too high the entire system reaches the boiling point and there is no coolant left to reduce the temp.addicted2blue00 said:
Other "old chevy owners" think that it's ok to run straight water during the summer because it is sometimes referred to as anti-freeze and everyone knows you don't have to worry about freezing during the summer.
Lesson: Don't buy an old chevy from an "old chevy owner." :jester:
Coolant does three very importan things.
1. Raises the boiling point.
2. Prevents the coolant from freezing.
3. Lubricates your coolant pump.
This is why it is usually best to use the 50/50 standard. You can use less in more temperate zones but then you also reduce the lubricating effectiveness and reduce the boiling point.
I agree somewhat with N56629 about the following:
Coolant
1. Raises the boiling point.
2. Prevents the coolant from freezing.
3. Lubricates your coolant pump.
Coolant also contains additives that resist corrosion. Rust and aluminum oxide will clog up your radiator pretty quickly if you don't fight the corrosion.
With that said, if you can manage the boiling point of your cooling system with a good fan and radiator cap, you may not need the added boilover protection of coolant. The coolant itself is not as good as a conductor of heat as plain water, so the more coolant you add, the less ability the fluid has to transfer heat away. In temperate climates, such as Phoenix where I live, I have run a very low coolant to water ratio before along with a "racing" coolant additive which is basically a corrosion inhibitor and water pump lube. This was in, as a matter of fact, my "old chevy" 1970 Camaro. I also don't recommend running without a thermostat. I also don't recomment running a lower temp tstat in computer controlled cars, as even if you might get some small performance gain, it is at a cost of emissions and increased sludge and deposit formation in your engine. An engine will typically increase performance (properly tuned) with an increase in temperature, but you have to be careful to stay away from detonation and the higher temps are harder on oil.
Coolant
1. Raises the boiling point.
2. Prevents the coolant from freezing.
3. Lubricates your coolant pump.
Coolant also contains additives that resist corrosion. Rust and aluminum oxide will clog up your radiator pretty quickly if you don't fight the corrosion.
With that said, if you can manage the boiling point of your cooling system with a good fan and radiator cap, you may not need the added boilover protection of coolant. The coolant itself is not as good as a conductor of heat as plain water, so the more coolant you add, the less ability the fluid has to transfer heat away. In temperate climates, such as Phoenix where I live, I have run a very low coolant to water ratio before along with a "racing" coolant additive which is basically a corrosion inhibitor and water pump lube. This was in, as a matter of fact, my "old chevy" 1970 Camaro. I also don't recommend running without a thermostat. I also don't recomment running a lower temp tstat in computer controlled cars, as even if you might get some small performance gain, it is at a cost of emissions and increased sludge and deposit formation in your engine. An engine will typically increase performance (properly tuned) with an increase in temperature, but you have to be careful to stay away from detonation and the higher temps are harder on oil.
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Not a bad thread, very informative for everyone else who didn't know this.DownBoi said:
Redline makes a product called "Water Wetter". Used it in my 331 stroked and blown Mustang for years. It would drop the temp on the gauge 10-15 deg. easy. I plan to use it in my DD R/T as soon as I figure out how to convince the stores here overseas to carrry it. :biggthump
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Wouldnt something like that be better to use at the track, when u want ur engine to cool off faster bewteen runs? Other than that, making it run lower than 180 at operating temp, wouldnt that be a bad thing? Where are u at over seas bud?
G
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·WOW, get a 170 Tstat or run ENGINE ICE. DO BOTH
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