[nascarneil100]

ok i have a 2001 cc 4x4 dak, i need to replace pads and rotors. am i dumb or what i can't l find the bolts to take the caliper off. any help is great. plus some one told me the bolt might not be a bolt but a star or allan head bolt HELP!!!!

 

[nascarneil100]

pic would be great too

 

[Dakudaman]

It is a 8mm allen (I believe) head sitting inside the rubber on the back side!

 

[nascarneil100]

thanks now i need it to stop raining so i can go work on it

 

[nascarneil100]

whats the life span on rotors?:huh:

 

[nascarneil100]

ok new problem. the caliper came off the rotor is off getting ready to put it all back together..... BUT the piston won't compress. any tips tricks or ideas?:help::help::help:

 

[adnedarn]

Brake caliper compressors are fairly cheap at any automotive store... under 10 bucks prolly. Just leave the brake pad on the piston side, put the big side where the outside pad goes, open the bleeder and twist it in... ( http://cgi.ebay.com/BRAKE-PAD-SPREA...QQitemZ320295459091QQcmdZViewItem?hash=item320295459091&_trksid=p3286.m63.l1177 ) You can prolly do it with a big ole c-clamp or big channel locks too. Remember to open the bleeder though any way you go so you don't throw junk up through the system.
Andrew

edit: and the life span depends... Typically it is recommended that anytime you put on new pads you have the rotors turned. But really.. if there isn't any big groves (including the lip at the very outside of the rotor) you can prolly get away with not doing it.

 

[nascarneil100]

i have a big c clamp and a block of wood but didn't open the bleeder. i'll try that in the morning. and i'll take pics of the rotors in the am also they are BAD like scary bad


thank you

 

[adnedarn]

If you have that to say about them... Prolly look at replacing them. Since they're not hubbed or anything, they shouldn't be too expensive to replace.
Andrew

 

[nascarneil100]

oh i am replacing them thats what started this whole thing

 

[Jarheadoo7]

i prefer to just open up the master cylender lid.. saves from the mess of the bleeder screw..

also,dont froge tto knock the scaled rust on the outer ring of the rotor off or you get this..



and DONT FORGET TO LUBE THE PINS!!!!!!

 

[adnedarn]

I don't break open the bleeder to make it easier to compress the caliper, I do it so you're not forcing possible contaminants back up through the master... Or the anti-brake unit if you have it... Plus, it replaces a little bit of the fluid every time you do your brakes, keeps the system clean and problem free. As far as clean up goes, if you don't have a hose, use a bucket of water. Brake fluid is water soluble and just splashing it makes it go away. There is no real clean up other than that.

You're saying rust on the rotor was causing that smoke? It's not uncommon for new pads to smell/smoke some if they're heated up good when first installed.

True that about lubing the pins (should be the allen bolts you removed to take the caliper off...) These are what your caliper moves on, keeping them clean and lubed will help keep your brake system centered on the rotor and help prevent one pad dragging when you're off the brake.
Andrew

 

[addicted2blue00]

my factory rotors last 75k, had them turned and they were gone by 100k, parts store replacement on there now, when i work on my brakes i always remove the resrvior cap, press the piston back in with 5" C clamp, grease the pins, slowly compress the piston back in -SLOWLY- so itll have time to push the fluid back, apply pad grease to the back side of the pads, take the clamp off and slap on the new pads and ya can figure the rest. on the drum brakes their a PITA