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Discussion starter · #21 ·
I guess I wasn't clear on the ABS relay. I found a empty spot for a relay under the hood but I was wondering if there was another location for the relay. Im am too thinking the RABS sensor is toast.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Reviving my thread... I did the front ball joints to find out my front pads are near completely gone. If I remember right, I have read in the past that when the pads are near the end of there life, the lights come on?

I have had my truck off the road so I havent had the time to work on it till now. Going to change the brakes and if its still on, then changing the rear sensor. Brake fluid is still good and at the full.
 
My e-brake light comes on all the time when i blow the fuse for my heater blower motor. It would only light up in reverse or when i tried to turn the blower motor on.

Many years ago there was a cap on my truck and the people who installed it used one of those blue quick splices and I think condensation gets into it and blows the fuse. I've never replaced the splice because i'm lazy and always have spares around anyways lol. Check the fuse for your blower motor...it's a red 50 amp and under the hood.
 
if your ebrake light is always on and every thing checks good the switch at the top of the pedal arm is misadjsuted loosen it push it forward a smidge then tighten it back up so when the pedal is UP it depresess the switch all the way.

the abs.... over rated :nana:
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Truck has been off the road but is going back on soon... is there a way to test the ABS sensor? I heard checking the amps A/C off of the sensor while spinning the rear at 1 cycle per second will give a reading, if not the sensor is toast?

Also read that there is a magnet on the sensor inside the rear which tends to pick up metal fillings.
 
Truck has been off the road but is going back on soon... is there a way to test the ABS sensor? I heard checking the amps A/C off of the sensor while spinning the rear at 1 cycle per second will give a reading, if not the sensor is toast?

Also read that there is a magnet on the sensor inside the rear which tends to pick up metal fillings.
use OHM meter to test it....see if it's open or has continuity....I don't have the specs for it here at home.

Or, set DVOM to AC scale and connect to sensor terminals, spin rear end, see if it makes voltage.

yea, magnet on end collects fillings, but those will not interfere with sensor reading tone wheel in differential
 
Man, you're making this problem far too complicated! Just replace the rwabs sensor and be done with it! :huh:
And I repeat!!!!! Damn Dude, you've been screwing with this problem for over a year now and have been advised how to correct it yet you refuse to replace the sensor!! You ask for advice...we give it...you ignore it and then keep asking for more advice!

Replace the damn sensor and be done with it!!! JEEZZZZZZ!!!!!
 
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