some reason i'm in the mood to throw a 5spd in the R/T.
can someone point in the direction of everything i need?
can someone point in the direction of everything i need?
5spd swap...
cupholder
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Joined
·
1,270 Posts
You should talk to Keisler if you want an all in one kit. I was just talking to Shaffi Keisler this weekend at Carlisle and he told me their TKO *AND* T56 kits would be coming back into production. The T56 kits will be cheaper than they were before.
no time line i assume?
Joined
·
1,270 Posts
He gave me his card and told me to email him for some info. It sounded like it was gonna be sooner than later.
i guess what i should have asked...what engines will it be for?
im not fully sold on the quicktime bellhousing yet...thou its almost the only option
Joined
·
1,270 Posts
Didn't say. He did say the BH's were going to be custom made with the welded on plate setups again. Same thing they did the first time around.
so they will be using the ax15 bellhousing again......what is the tooth count on the flywheel? and do you use a mechanical throw out bearing or hydraulic?
did you ever get my pm on the flywheel question?
Joined
·
4,635 Posts
I would look at a lakewood scattershield if I was you. it might be more money, but it's not that much more. I paid $400 for my scatter shield, and if my clutch ever decides to start throwing shrapnel, my feet will be safe. if the clutch lets go at 6,000 rpm, the stock bellhousing and floor won't be enough to save your feet.
I paid $4,000 for everything in my kit and it did not come from keisler. I got the lakewood bell, TKO-600, kelsey-hayes street/strip clutch with beefed up springs for more holding force, flywheel, tilton hyd. bearing, and master cylinder w/TKO bearing retainer, and topped it all off with a pistol grip shifter.
I paid $4,000 for everything in my kit and it did not come from keisler. I got the lakewood bell, TKO-600, kelsey-hayes street/strip clutch with beefed up springs for more holding force, flywheel, tilton hyd. bearing, and master cylinder w/TKO bearing retainer, and topped it all off with a pistol grip shifter.
Joined
·
106 Posts
First drive impression of my 408 with the TKO are its going to be fun as soon as i get the trans broken in. Keisler sugest 500 mile break in before hammering it. The TKO i would say is slightly notchy in shifting buy 100% better then the NV3500. I have to straighten out an issue with my Hydraulic line for the slave cylinder then Ill give you a better opinion.
Joined
·
1,270 Posts
Pretty much the same deal with mine. Love the closer ratios I bet. After about a 1,000 miles the shifter will open up some. If the grip ends up too close to your leg, mount the handle to the passenger side of the shifter after flipping it 180* and it will move it over some. That's what I do with mine.
Joined
·
106 Posts
It also wines a bit while in gear, does yours do that??
Joined
·
1,270 Posts
Yeah, I've learned to live with it. The metal on metal shifter design is the cause of that. It rattles the shifter at high speeds too. I prob have to tweak the driveline angle a bit.
Joined
·
4,635 Posts
mine took about 1500 miles before it really started to shift smoothly. it's to the point now that I don't even use the clutch unless i'm stopped.
and mine does whine a bit as well. glad to hear others do too.
if you get the stock rear shift tower that's red anodized aluminum, BUY A MECHANICAL SHIFT STOP!
once mine loosened up some and became easier to shift, I overshifted into 2nd, locking it into gear. I had to tear the center of the truck apart, remove the access cover in the middle, and with a pry bar, pop it out of 2nd gear.
3 days later, I did it again. only this time, I thought that too much force locked it into gear, then I should be able to pop it back out of gear with enough force too, right?
wrong.
I broke the 3/4 shift dog thats on the end of the rail. I limped home, shifting from 2nd to 5th, because I couldn't shift into 3rd, and if I shifted into 4th, I had no way of getting it back out of 4th.
bottom line, buy some sort of mechanical shift stop for these transmissions. after it happened to me, I posted online at Moparts to see if I broke my transmission or what the hell exactly happened, and several folks said that it happens a lot with these gear boxes.
and mine does whine a bit as well. glad to hear others do too.
if you get the stock rear shift tower that's red anodized aluminum, BUY A MECHANICAL SHIFT STOP!
once mine loosened up some and became easier to shift, I overshifted into 2nd, locking it into gear. I had to tear the center of the truck apart, remove the access cover in the middle, and with a pry bar, pop it out of 2nd gear.
3 days later, I did it again. only this time, I thought that too much force locked it into gear, then I should be able to pop it back out of gear with enough force too, right?
wrong.
I broke the 3/4 shift dog thats on the end of the rail. I limped home, shifting from 2nd to 5th, because I couldn't shift into 3rd, and if I shifted into 4th, I had no way of getting it back out of 4th.
bottom line, buy some sort of mechanical shift stop for these transmissions. after it happened to me, I posted online at Moparts to see if I broke my transmission or what the hell exactly happened, and several folks said that it happens a lot with these gear boxes.
Joined
·
106 Posts
I have the midshift location and the Keisler shifter, where can I get the stop??
Joined
·
1,270 Posts
You can't. You have to buy a new shifter. Modern Driveline sells a modified Pro 5.0 shifter for $350. I've been beating on mine for a couple years now and haven't had it get stuck in gear. This includes trips to the track.
Joined
·
4,635 Posts
I got mine from Keisler, but it's not for the midshift location. I'm using the stock location on the TKO that uses the red anodized shifter with 6 bolts holding it down. I did have to cut a new hole in my floor to do so, but a new hole was cheaper than a mid-shift shifter relocation kit.
I'd call them to ask them what they suggest to use as a shift stop.
Joined
·
106 Posts
I should hopefully have my truck going this weekend, I have to replace the slave cylinder line as it developed a leak after ther exhaust was put in. I found some high pressure fuel line and im going to try and patch it with before I buy a new master cylinder, line and slave cylinder setup.
Joined
·
4,635 Posts
I don't think high pressure fuel line will work. high pressure fuel line is rated to like 50 or 60 PSI, and you're probably going to make more than that in your clutch line, plus, if it's not designed for brake fluid, the rubber could swell up on you, or even buldge out under pressure.
you need line thats rated for brake fluid and brake applications.
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
-
?
