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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I want to install my 180 stat, and I am going to flush the motor out and put in new coolant.

My 2002 has the red stuff in it, The only red stuff at the store I saw is the GM red stuff. I am assuming its all the same as its the same color. Can any one confirm this, I do not want to get coolant at the stealership.

Thanks...
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Ok I'll just use that stuff then, thats what I was looking at then I saw the GM stuff. Why they did't just stick with green is beyond me.

Out of curiosity, was the red coolant in my truck from the factory?
 
#5 ·
red or pink?

some of the late 90s and up chryslers have an organic coolant from the factory. My 01 has the stuff and its expensive as hell. (dealer only).
Ive wanted to flush it out and use the prestone but eveyone i work with swears the world will end if i dont reuse the organic stuff.
the coolant is pink in color and it usually is accompanied by a tag on the resivour cap saying "special coolant required" or something of that nature.

weather you can switch to the ethelyne glycol (green stuff) or not, im not sure and havent tried it yet.
 
#6 ·
Blue Streak said:
some of the late 90s and up chryslers have an organic coolant from the factory. My 01 has the stuff and its expensive as hell. (dealer only).
Ive wanted to flush it out and use the prestone but eveyone i work with swears the world will end if i dont reuse the organic stuff.
the coolant is pink in color and it usually is accompanied by a tag on the resivour cap saying "special coolant required" or something of that nature.

weather you can switch to the ethelyne glycol (green stuff) or not, im not sure and havent tried it yet.
Click to expand...
Damn! I've doomed us all!! I drained the pink coolant outta my .03 Dak last month and replaced it with universal green stuff.

Actually, the world isn't ending just yet and the truck is great!
 
#9 ·
Blue Streak said:
...My 01 has the stuff and its expensive as hell. (dealer only)...
Click to expand...
You want expensive, try $22 for a gallon of G12 coolant for a VW! Have to use it, VW hoses and parts don't like anything else in the long term.

I, too, am using the universal green stuff in my truck. Drained the whole system (no flush) and refilled after installign a block heater.
 
#10 ·
The Valvoline brand Zerex-G05 coolant is the HOAT equivilent of the Mopar red coolant. Costs $12 a gallon instead of the outrageous dealer price. I put it into my 2001 and 2002 trucks. Works just fine.

And as was said already, "stay away from Dex-cool". The additives in that coolant are not compatible with our engines. The corrosion inhibiter package is full of phosphastes, and our requirements are for phosphate-free coolant.
 
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#11 ·
wal mart super tech is actually prestone.
why do u want a 180 stat? are u drag racing at the track only?
it will provide lower mpg and actually less power on the street.
if u see any better mpg it is because the stock fan clutch starts to engage at 180.
Heat is where the power and mpg is made.
 
#13 ·
if u have detonation, using a lower t-stat is not the answer. Find out what is causing the dt and fix the cause.
Try a filter/separator in the pvc line, Try a filter cap in the valve cover for the hose to the air hat, these where used on all dodge/plymouth v-8 engines over the yrs. that is the correct setup for a pvc system. it seams the factory cheaped out for the '97 models. And try a HP water pump. I use a GMB (larger casting passages, ceramic seal, impellar plate). No more pinging/dt after this. I'm running this setup with a viper fan set to come on at 206. running down the highway in 90 temp, engine temp stays at a steady 198-200. No pinging whatso ever under load. The pvc and valve cover mods elimated 98% of the pinging, the wp got rid of the rest. This is with 87 octane and a stock t-stat. Of course the 10% alcohol in the fuel helps today.
using more fuel or lower t-stat's are band-aid approaches.
good luck.
YMMV
 
#14 ·
Unless you are after more performance which the cooler t-stats do help with. No different than the IAT resistor mods. A cooler running engine allows the PCM to advance timing, or with the IAT resistor, making the PCM think it's getting colder air increases timing as well. There's a reason so many people run 180 t-stats. They work. Sure they affect gas mileage, but if you are worried about gas mileage, then you wouldn't be driving a V-8 Dodge. For the average joe driving to work and back stock is fine. That's the way the motor was designed to work. For those looking to those extra little things they can do, then there are "tweaks" that can be done. I consider a 180 t-stat one of those tweaks.
 
#16 ·
Why would you want an iron engine to stay at 200 degrees?? Thats not optimum operating temperature.... 180 degress is even abit high but since the pcm likes to flood the motor at lower water temps it offers the best compromise.
Your justification for running cheap gas is plausible with your modifications. I could back the timing off of my BTM and run cheap gas too.. but the truck is not in a peak state of tune.
Also keep in mind the factory air intake system is for shit. An FIPK or CAI wakes the 5.2/5.9s up pretty good.


fivetwo said:
if u have detonation, using a lower t-stat is not the answer. Find out what is causing the dt and fix the cause.
Try a filter/separator in the pvc line, Try a filter cap in the valve cover for the hose to the air hat, these where used on all dodge/plymouth v-8 engines over the yrs. that is the correct setup for a pvc system. it seams the factory cheaped out for the '97 models. And try a HP water pump. I use a GMB (larger casting passages, ceramic seal, impellar plate). No more pinging/dt after this. I'm running this setup with a viper fan set to come on at 206. running down the highway in 90 temp, engine temp stays at a steady 198-200. No pinging whatso ever under load. The pvc and valve cover mods elimated 98% of the pinging, the wp got rid of the rest. This is with 87 octane and a stock t-stat. Of course the 10% alcohol in the fuel helps today.
using more fuel or lower t-stat's are band-aid approaches.
good luck.
YMMV
Click to expand...
 
#17 ·
caulk04 said:
You want expensive, try $22 for a gallon of G12 coolant for a VW! Have to use it, VW hoses and parts don't like anything else in the long term.

I, too, am using the universal green stuff in my truck. Drained the whole system (no flush) and refilled after installign a block heater.
Click to expand...

Speaking G12 I have some left over I need to put off on someone cause I got some to change to a green coolant temp sensor on my last VW and
never did it.
 
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