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PIXER

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Why is my '99 RC R/T soo slow? It really feels like a dog, Feels slower than my last RC R/T That had double the miles.
-K&N FIPK (clean)
-New coil, cab, plugs, wires, gapped according to haynes
-Exhaust is from the previous owner, true duals setup (from the factory exhaust manifolds) dumped useing dual Borla Mufflers before the rear axle.
-Rebuilt tranny < 10k miles ago.

I know since I just put the 20's on its going to be a little bit slower, but this seems too slow. How can I tell if my rear end is going out?

Seriously, no power breaking, just flooring it outa the hole- No smoke, tires barely spin. :nono: Suggestions on the problem (s)?
 
Discussion starter · #2 ·
Oh yeah, I'm burning oil too, not noticeable visually (black smoke) but at least a quart a 3k mile run, AT LEAST. I know this is probably from a bad gasket on the stock intake manifold, is that whats slowing me down? I also have the stock clutch fan


-New Battery
 
If your burning oil that is never good.
 
Actually, 20" wheels are a factor. Usually larger wheels weigh more than smaller wheels and with more rotational weight to move, it takes more power. Rotational weight affects your horsepower and acceleration more than static weight.
 
20 inch wheeels are not a factor depending on the profile of the tire. They can be the same size overall as the OEM tire and wheel combo.
bolt some bogarts on your truck w/ slicks/skinnies that are the same overall diameter as your tires and tell me your truck isnt faster:eek:nethumb:
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Yeah I figured its the belly pan gasket, just going to wait to I have the cash for an M1, no sense it taking it apart twice. But I'm sure whitedak99 might be able to swing by and give me a hand :banana2:

How can I tell if my rear end is going out?

Appreciate the responses, but yeah I JUST put the 20's on~ 3 weeks ago, and with the 17's it still felt slower than my last R/T.
 
Oh yeah, I'm burning oil too, not noticeable visually (black smoke) but at least a quart a 3k mile run, AT LEAST. I know this is probably from a bad gasket on the stock intake manifold, is that whats slowing me down? I also have the stock clutch fan


-New Battery
Well for one black smoke is most likely carbon build up blueish smoke would indicate oil burning......
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
and not seeing ANY smoke since Its dumped pasenger side before the axle? :wave:
 
20 inch wheeels are not a factor depending on the profile of the tire. They can be the same size overall as the OEM tire and wheel combo.
That's partially correct.

Here is a neat little article I found

It is commonly recognized that eliminating weight from a vehicle will aid it's acceleration. Even greater gains in acceleration, or wheel horsepower, can be made by eliminating weight from rotating parts of the drivetrain and chassis. To even further complicate matters, there are more gains to be made in reducing certain areas of rotating mass than others.

For example: Reducing 10 lbs of weight from parts that rotate at engine speed (crankshaft, flywheel, etc.) will have more benefits than reducing 10 lbs of weight from parts that rotate at axle speed (hub, rotor, wheel/tire, etc.) This somewhat relates to drivetrain loss, which most people are familiar with.

However, even reducing the weight of parts that rotate at axle speed, still far outweighs the benefits of reducing weight from non-rotating parts.

My 2002 Kia Rio in stock form was rated at 96 HP at the crank, but dynoed at a mere 76 HP at the wheels. Though there are other factors involved in getting power to the ground, such as spring rates and aerodynamics, rotational mass is a major factor in the significant difference between crank horsepower and wheel horsepower.

Another real world example of rotational mass that I was not pleased to learn was that my new tires and wheels were 4 lbs heavier on each corner and I actually dynoed lower HP and torque numbers at the wheels. So, if you have bigger wheels than your factory set, you will most likely make your car more powerful by swapping in your old tires/wheels.

The only problem with smaller tires/wheels on a performance oriented car is there may be a sacrifice in handling. Indeed, my stock tires/wheels were completely inadequate at harnessing even the moderate power gains done to my Rio. So, although I am suffering some power loss due to increased rotational mass of my drive wheels/tires, the gains in handling are an acceptable compromise.

There are other benefits to reducing unsprung rotational mass (the part of the car not supported by the springs: tires/wheels). Reducing unsprung mass, specifically from rotating parts, will not only improve acceleration, but it can greatly improve handling and braking too.

Some examples of common aftermarket parts that are manufactured to be lighter than OEM parts to reduce the effects of rotational mass are: bearings, flywheels, drive shafts, crankshafts, rotors, hubs, tires, wheels, ring gears, differentials, clutches, transmission gears, and possibly the most common application, pulleys.


So in all reality a 20 inch wheel usually weighs more than a 17 inch wheel. Now you add the rubber to the ground and thats even more weight for the truck to turn.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
or if worse comes to worse you can just dump that slag heap and get a new car.
Yeah, but with all the money I just dumped into, (wheels tires, seats, full body repaint, hood, tonnue, roll pan, hide a hitch, new tails, headlights, fog lights, s.s. grills, mirrors, hotchkiss, shaved parts, grill surround, fire and ice, :blahblah::blahblah::blahblah::blahblah: If I was going to buy a Lightning I would have done it already. I really like the way my truck looks and sounds not too bad. Just need to decide if that enough, or break out the wallet for power.
 
check if your emergency brake is on:nana:
Haha, but seriously man you better check this.

On my '99 RC R/T with just a 14x3 K&N filter, flowmaster cat-back, superchips, and msd wires I was able to crack the tires loose at any speed below 25mph. The vid in my sig is a powerstand, but I've got other videos of my truck on there if you're curious. There's something wrong... somewhere...

Try filling up at a different gas station for a week, perhaps one has bad gas?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Haha, but seriously man you better check this.

On my '99 RC R/T with just a 14x3 K&N filter, flowmaster cat-back, superchips, and msd wires I was able to crack the tires loose at any speed below 25mph. The vid in my sig is a powerstand, but I've got other videos of my truck on there if you're curious. There's something wrong... somewhere...

Try filling up at a different gas station for a week, perhaps one has bad gas?
The truck rolls just fine (in neutral level area, pushing it is easy) Not the ebrake. How can I tell if the rear end is going out?
 
Yeah, but with all the money I just dumped into, (wheels tires, seats, full body repaint, hood, tonnue, roll pan, hide a hitch, new tails, headlights, fog lights, s.s. grills, mirrors, hotchkiss, shaved parts, grill surround, fire and ice, :blahblah::blahblah::blahblah::blahblah: If I was going to buy a Lightning I would have done it already. I really like the way my truck looks and sounds not too bad. Just need to decide if that enough, or break out the wallet for power.
If you had spent all that money on go fast parts, you wouldn't be complaining :nana:

Sounds like it's time to open the wallet again, going fast ain't cheap, especially in these things!
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
If you had spent all that money on go fast parts, you wouldn't be complaining :nana:

Sounds like it's time to open the wallet again, going fast ain't cheap, especially in these things!
Yeah, nothing Like in the '03 :rant: But you know all about that
 
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