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Tanky

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
OK, let me first say I have the JM Performance 2 core radiator with electric fan. I have new water pump, 50/50 mix with water wetter additive, and new 180 T stat. OK, think that covers those bases.

In the summer time, here in the South East, my truck loves to over heat. This only happens with AC on and sitting still. Today with 96 degree heat, My truck ran past the 210 mark to the mark located approx 2 o clock position. Now, here's the kicker, i did a little test:

With the hood open sitting still, max AC on, the truck went a few degrees over 210, not much, and sat there. This was for approx 20-30minutes. Closed the hood, truck temperature rose to the 2 o clock position. I opened the hood back up and it leveled out right there. Truck didn't really cool back down though, just stayed the same.

Now, I could theorize that either my hood (doubt it) or my street scene grill inserts are not allowing enough air into the motor. I'd like to hear from you guys on what I could do. trust has issues staying cool, always has. Thought the 2 core radiator would fix it. So, think my inserts is screwing the incoming air?
 
Have you tried removing the weather strip that runs along the wiper cowl at the back of the motor? It will allow alot of hot air to escape from the motor compartment. I did that myself for the 90-110 degree summers here and it does help.
 
Thw Water Wetter works great. Been using it for years. Definitely make a difference. As for your cooling problems, to me,it sounds like the electric fan you are running can't keep up with your cooling needs. What e-fan are you using?? If you want since it never freezes there, bump your coolant mixture to 70% water and 30% coolant with two bottles of water wetter. Takes two bottles to work properly.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
The weather stripping is gone, the glue on it wore away some years back lol. The hood I have is a shaker hood from ProFinish, Terry Delong (not Keystone). The fan I'm using is a be cool unit I believe that came with the radiator. Its a roughly 18" fan that is nicely loud lol.

So no one thinks the SS inserts could be minimizing the air flow?
 
The SS inserts do minimize airflow when not using an electric fan, but with the electric fan it should be okay. I still think either the radiator is just too small, or the e-fan can't move enough air. Any pictures of the fan?? Does it have a shroud of any type?
 
YOUR FUCKING FULL OF SHIT. Thanks now move on.

Lets see... buy an $8 chemical and READ THE FUCKING INSTRUCTIONS!! (and works so well that sanctioning racing bodies recommend it)

or

Buy a $500+ hood, paint it, install it and still not solve an overheating problem.

Thats a brilliant gem of a contribution there...lol. You must be employed in a civilian government position that has no budget constraints or needs to rely on factual data...lol


Dakudaman said:
Put coolant back in it and rid yourself of the Wetter shit! It doesn't work as well as coolant! and get a cowl hood to extract the heated air.
 
Your problem is your coolant mixture is tooooooooo rich. 50/50 is not an ideal mixture for a southern, humid climate.

Try 10% or less glycol, DISTILLED or DEIONIZED WATER and proportionate amounts of water wetter. Also check the t stat to make sure its working properly. Another little trick is to drill a couple 1/8" holes in the Tstat to make sure all air trapped in the system is bled out.

My setup works great with the a/c running, a 2300 cfm 16" fan, and the above coolant recipe. Stays at 200 or a shade above in direct sunlight and high humidity.

One last suggestion is to review your fan shroud setup.



Tanky said:
OK, let me first say I have the JM Performance 2 core radiator with electric fan. I have new water pump, 50/50 mix with water wetter additive, and new 180 T stat. OK, think that covers those bases.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
hmm my mixture might be the culprit. I've always done 50/50 for the truck. Don't know why, always seemed easiest and best. Guess that was just a old wives tell sort of thought.
 
TurboBlew said:
YOUR FUCKING FULL OF SHIT. Thanks now move on.

Lets see... buy an $8 chemical and READ THE FUCKING INSTRUCTIONS!! (and works so well that sanctioning racing bodies recommend it)

or

Buy a $500+ hood, paint it, install it and still not solve an overheating problem.

Thats a brilliant gem of a contribution there...lol. You must be employed in a civilian government position that has no budget constraints or needs to rely on factual data...lol
Wow.............a little harsh there man.
 
Tanky said:
hmm my mixture might be the culprit. I've always done 50/50 for the truck. Don't know why, always seemed easiest and best. Guess that was just a old wives tell sort of thought.
50/50 is the recomended mixture by most people. If you live in an area where it freezes, you need to have the 50/50 mixture for the best compromise of anti-freezing ability and cooling capability. If you live in an area where it doesn't freeze, you are safer runing less coolant and more water for better cooling ability. But you need the coolant/anti-freeze in the system for the lubrication of the seals.
 
This doesnt make any sense. I guarantee a stock grill with street scene inserts will flow all the air you'll ever need to cool a radiator.


Daktari said:
Also note that the smaller the screen size in grille inserts, the less air gets through or at least a lot slower for cooling.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
frog said:
When i had my '99, I did notice an increase in engine temp after installing the SS grill inserts. After putting an e-fanon, it helped keep them lower. The SS inserts do affect cooling.
I kinda suspect they do as well. It may be other things, but I believe the inserts are a contributing factor as well. Going to pull them off sometime this week and do another test and see. I wonder if moving my tranny cooler to maybe the frame and away from the condenser/radiator would help? Its located on the side, not center. Or maybe to the very bottom of the radiator....

Just trying to see how to keep this truck cool. It definitely loathes the summer time.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
Though I'd post an update to whats new with the RT. This past weekend I took the grill inserts out and rode around all day long in 90+ temps. Truck got hot at every stop light I got to. When I started moving, the truck went instantly back cool again, AC cold, etc. Here's the kicker to it all, after the truck reaching near 240 I'm guessing, my check engine light started blinking. Ran the codes, all cylinders misfiring. OK, wrong. Erased codes, cranked truck went about business. An hour later, still out on the town doing soem house hold runs, bam, blinking engine light-same 11 codes. This time I said screw it. Drove around, and when the temp was dead center I nailed it everytime, and the truck never ever let me down for a second. There was no missing, no hesitation, nothing, just raw damn power. So, chalk the light to my PCM being stupid.
Made some phone calls this morning on this truck. First call was to SPAL fans. Told him I had the custom package that included a BE Cool 2 core radiator with recommended fan. Fan equipped was a 2200+ 16" fan (later found out). The technician told me thats not enough in the South with high humidity. he recommended a dual 12" fan setup. Next call, to Flex-a-lite fans. Same story delivered to him. He asked way more questions than SPAL did. Things like my HP rating, truck circumstances at such and such times, etc. He agreed I'm way off CFM rating with my truck. He recommended their single 16" Black Magic Extreme fan, 3300 CFM fan with shroud.
Long story short, I basically got a killer radiator with little cooling support. So out comes my brand new fan (eventually) for a new (more-than-likely) Flex-a-lite fan. This mindset of not beinging able to drive in the summer time is getting old and fast. So, thats the deal. My electric fan isn't enough to support my HP rating. Just thought I'd let people know....
 
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