Dakota Durango Forum banner
41 - 54 of 54 Posts
Electric fan

Ralphp, Hey that's a good point. Idk if I trust the stocker though, it's kinda weak. I mean it would prob be alright now because it's winter here in maryland. Plus i don't like that it don't come on until like 210 degree that's a little warm for me. I mean yeah I could put a adustable thermo on it but I don't think it moves enough air for my liking.

Tommysdodge, yeah I've read a bunch of stuff on Hayden and I keep seeing they blow fuses all the time or just don't work lol. That's what I thought to go with at first (taurus) but I think I kinda like the lincoln fan a little more. Really it's gonna come down to what I can get at a decent price. Do you think a 80 amp would be alright?
 
What I meant, J04dakota, is that since so many others are having no problem with the stocker fan, EITHER the Taurus or Mark VIII fan would do the job. Or, for that matter, the high speed PWM'ed on a 4.6-juiced MN12 (Cougar or Thunderbird, 1994-1997) fan.

I understand wanting extra. And with it modulated, having an oversized fan isn't a problem. Shucks, I upgraded to the Extreme Cooling radiator (trim package on the 1988 I own, not a brand!) when I did my water pump, so that I have excess cooling capability!

If using a Mark VIII fan, at least an 80A relay - and I'd use a 100A or larger fuse! - to keep from the fuse popping and the relay welding itself. They have been measured at 75A inrush on new motors, I shudder to think what a tired motor may want.

(That's another reason to use something like Derale's PWM controller ... )

RwP
 
Electric fan

Ok I get what your saying, I'll keep that one in mind too when I'm looking. I'll prob look around on eBay and see what kinda prices in looking at. I bet that helped out, I looked around for a bigger radiator when I did my water pump but I couldn't find any. If rather have a little piece of mind and get a decent setup. True you gotta good point there with the amps old fans want. Now if I wanted to try running the stock fan right now what would be the cheapest and easiest route with putting a adjustable thermo in?
 
Electric fan

Is it alright for me to run a control that don't have ac override for the time being? I'm gonna put a thermo control on my stock fan for right now until I can get a lincoln fan or something or the sort. I mean it's winter here md but the fan does come on with the heater so I'm just wondering if it will hurt anything. Thank you it's a 04 dakota 4.7
 
J04Dakota - Use a simple SPDT relay, and you can still get both.

Find out which side switches. For 2001, it's the GREY wire connected to the 12V feed from the relay in the PDC. Connect the COM terminal (for a Bosch style 5-terminal SPDT relay, it's pin 30) to the fan, the NC contact (pin 87A) to the current wire that's switched.

Take the NO contact (pin 87) to the 12V or Ground leg to complete it instead of the internal logic.

Wire the coil up to 12V --> Pin 85, then Pin 86 --> Switch --> Ground.

If possible, add a 1N5004 diode with the band at Pin 85, other side to Pin 86, to dampen reverse spikes.

That way, the switch will turn the fan ON forced, but if it's turned OFF, the A/C will turn the fan ON.

I don't know for sure ... but my 2001 book says that the GREY wire is switched 12V, so you'd wire the 87 pin to a fuse, and from that to the battery or alternator, or some other place to get a solid 12V. For 2001, it was a 50A switch, so you'd want at least a 65A or bigger relay.

Also, pick the 12V source for the relay coil to be a switched source ('HOT in ON or RUN', not 'ALWAYS HOT').

If you DO grab a Bosch style relay be forewarned - most are only 30 to 40A, and may not last long switching that fan motor.

RwP
 
Electric fan

Ralphp- thank you for the schooling on wiring lol. I do appreciate it. I could only get a 40a relay at the auto parts store so I got that but it was 4 pin so I wired that up mines the a.c. for right now. I don't think it will hurt anything because it's not hot out to where I need the fan on all the time. But I went on eBay and ordered an 80a 5 pin relay and 100a fuse so when that comes in I'm going to wire it up the way you said to. Now for the side that switched you mean from the pdc to the fan right? I have a service manual for my truck and I'm pretty sure it the yellow wire because the only other wire to the fan is black and its ground I believe. And where can I get a diode? I found some at radio shack but they are only 1a. I think the part number was 1n4001 and 1n4003.
 
1A should be fine - it's there with the band towards 12V to dampen reverse inductance when the relay cuts off (the same action, when scaled up, is what fires the spark coil ... YEOWCH!) I'd grab a 1N4003, which is 1A 200V, so it should be adequate.

Yes, from the PDC to the fan. I didn't have a FSM for your year, which is why I specified that for 2001 it was yada yada. YMMV, so check the factory service manual.

What that does, is if you leave the inside switch off, the ECU can control the fan motor.

Flip your switch, the relay then toggles to the other side (the NO side) and feeds THAT to the fan.

That should mean that the fan will never be off if the ECU requires cooling.

RwP
 
Ralphp- thank you for the schooling on wiring lol. I do appreciate it. I could only get a 40a relay at the auto parts store so I got that but it was 4 pin so I wired that up mines the a.c. for right now. I don't think it will hurt anything because it's not hot out to where I need the fan on all the time. But I went on eBay and ordered an 80a 5 pin relay and 100a fuse so when that comes in I'm going to wire it up the way you said to. Now for the side that switched you mean from the pdc to the fan right? I have a service manual for my truck and I'm pretty sure it the yellow wire because the only other wire to the fan is black and its ground I believe. And where can I get a diode? I found some at radio shack but they are only 1a. I think the part number was 1n4001 and 1n4003.
Lets think about that for a minute.. Why would you install a 100A fuse on a circuit with an 80A relay? You might as well not install a fuse at all because the relay will melt down before the fuse blows. The fuse must always be rated below the weakest link - speaking of which, what size wiring are you using?

Sent from a Galaxy far, far away using Tapatalk.
 
Electric fan

Tazrango- that makes sense, definitely a good point that the fuse should be the weakest link so other shit don't fry. Currently I'm using 10 gauge on the stock fan with a flex a lite controller and probe. When I get a higher amp fan I'll probably step down a few. I was thinking like 6 or 8 awg should be good but I could be wrong?
 
My first reply here. Have been working on my daughters 02 Durango 4.7 here in Phoenix where the temperatures get extremely high. I bought a 3.8 V-6 Taurus fan, but decided to go with the 3.0 instead. It came with a better shroud and has a more better look to it. It is a NEW Motorcraft , didn't want to go with aftermarket or used here in Phoenix. I hooked it up with a BMW temp. switch, Volvo control relay, Stinger 85 amp circuit breaker and a Motorcraft direct plug with a 30 and 40 amp circuit breaker which hooks up directly at the fan. Battery to the Stinger circuit to a Bueller 70 amp industrial relay to the Volvo relay. Drove her in 112 degrees weather with a/c on (complete a/c rebuild front n rear) never got hot. Kinda been entertaining the idea of going with a PWM controller. A hellava lot of research later........AUTOCOOL 85 will be my next project with the big D. I found no other controller that comes anywhere near this one.
My 2 cents.
 
Taurus 3.8 fan is perfect. I've had it in my 00 QC 4.7 for a few months now and love it. I spliced my dakotas factory male fan connector onto the taurus fan so it's like it came factory installed. I now get better fuel mileage, the truck warms up faster, and I'll have colder a/c in the summer. It's one of the best mods you can do to our trucks!
 
41 - 54 of 54 Posts