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what settings does your t-case have?
if it has 4lo loc, nuetral, 4hi, 4hi-loc then you have the AWD setup
if it has 4lo, nuetral, 2wd, 4hi then you have a part-time t-case, if this is what you have, then you should be fine removing the front drive shaft and driving it around, jus tmake sure your not going to loose any fluid from the front.
 
on a regular 4wd, not AWD, you CAN remove the shaft with no problems or fluid leakage. it's a bolt on shaft and hooks to a flange on either end. it does not go directly into a tcase or anything with fluid.

i just changed mine recently too and got the replacement from napa. they had the best price without going for a custom one.
 
Just to add my two cents, I have my front drive shaft removed from my rango and I put it in 4hi. I have had it this way for about 2 months now and have not run into any problems. Side note--I do not drive my rango everyday and when I do, it is just 24 miles a day.
 
you should be fine with a part time transfer case. no fluid should leak from it. just dont forget you dont have 4wd and back in somewhere u cant get out of.

with an awd transfer case it gets tricky. since yours is older it might not matter. the newer awd chrysler vehicles will not drive without the front driveshaft. there is actually an option in starmobile for diag. procedure with front driveshaft out so it will actually move with only rear driveshaft
 
what settings does your t-case have?
if it has 4lo loc, nuetral, 4hi, 4hi-loc then you have the AWD setup
if it has 4lo, nuetral, 2wd, 4hi then you have a part-time t-case, if this is what you have, then you should be fine removing the front drive shaft and driving it around, jus tmake sure your not going to loose any fluid from the front.
You put it in 4HI. Not AWD, not FT4wd, nothing. Four, fucking, wheel, drive.

You drive to my house, I'll pull your front driveshaft, put the truck in 4HI and drive it around for you. If anything breaks, I'll fix the truck and pay your lodging, fuel and lost wages for your entire trip.
 
You put it in 4HI. Not AWD, not FT4wd, nothing. Four, fucking, wheel, drive.

You drive to my house, I'll pull your front driveshaft, put the truck in 4HI and drive it around for you. If anything breaks, I'll fix the truck and pay your lodging, fuel and lost wages for your entire trip.
Esplain this to me, my t-case has 4 settings, 4 lo-loc, nuetral, 4hi, 4 hi-loc. Now which position would you like to put it in? Why does every bit of documentation for my t-case state specifically that it should not be driven, except under emergency conditions, without both driveshafts in place. Explain why over two dozen tranny shops in my area all tell me the exact samething, including two shops which are owned/operated by former Chrysler senior transmission specialists (one is also the former Chrysler zone transmission engineer). I also spoke with one of my local 4x4 shops, combined 150 + yrs exp. mechanics (two with 35+ yrs exp. building 4x4's), and they have all seen these t-cases exp. some type of internal issues when driven even short distances without both drive-shafts in place.

Also, prior to doing this, I want all your automotive credentials, your exp., etc. ahead of time, then I want this "agreement" in writing, drafted by a lawyer, it will be signed, notarized, and I want proof of all available funds up front (my average weekly take home wages are $1,000) and placed in escrow to guarentee that they will be available for payment if needed. Let's modify your agreement, once the shaft is removed, the truck will be driven back across country, it will then be driven for 90 days under normal useage conditions with the shaft removed.
 
...I also spoke with one of my local 4x4 shops, combined 150 + yrs exp. mechanics (two with 35+ yrs exp. building 4x4's), and they have all seen these t-cases exp. some type of internal issues when driven even short distances without both drive-shafts in place...
Blah blah blah. Obviously they saw t-cases that were operated in an AWD mode, not 4hi.

Also, prior to doing this, I want all your automotive credentials, your exp., etc. ahead of time, then I want this "agreement" in writing, drafted by a lawyer, it will be signed, notarized, and I want proof of all available funds up front (my average weekly take home wages are $1,000) and placed in escrow to guarentee that they will be available for payment if needed. Let's modify your agreement, once the shaft is removed, the truck will be driven back across country, it will then be driven for 90 days under normal useage conditions with the shaft removed.
You're such an ass, really.

4hi-loc, given your options. This locks the t-cases internal differential. IT WILL NOT BREAK ANYTHING.

What are your automotive credentials? Does it matter? No.

I'm done with this argument, period. I feel it has been clearly discussed and anyone reading this will understand that you're wrong. Your constant bickering about it is exactly why there is so much disagreement on this issue...too many people who don't understand the system claim it can't be done.

Hmm...kinda reminds me of the people who said you 'can't get 5th gear out of a 45RFE with a computer flash/swap'.

BTW - The neg rep I gave you is EXACTLY what the neg rep option is for. You neg repped back out of retaliation and I could care less.
 
Blah blah blah. Obviously they saw t-cases that were operated in an AWD mode, not 4hi.



You're such an ass, really.

4hi-loc, given your options.
hey fucktard, thanks for proving my point, it states specifically in the owners manual and FSM that the truck is not to be driven on dry pavement with the t-case in hi or lo loc position. The AWD cases only have a lo-loc, nuetral, hi, and hi-loc postion.
 
hey fucktard, thanks for proving my point, it states specifically in the owners manual and FSM that the truck is not to be driven on dry pavement with the t-case in hi or lo loc position. The AWD cases only have a lo-loc, nuetral, hi, and hi-loc postion.
You just don't fucking get it, do you?

They tell you that because with the front drive shaft INSTALLED, it will bind the driveline. When you REMOVE the front drive shaft, the binding is not possible.

Think outside the book, use a little brain once in a while.
 
Lol. It's not worth wasting your breath caulk. They clearly "DON'T" get it. Front drive shaft went out on my 01 r/t rango. Its an AWD np244d transfer case. I removed the front shaft, placed the selector in 4hi/4hi-loc (in my case the selector is labeled n-awd-4hi-4lo, 4hi,4lo are the locked transfer case dif selections). Then proceeded to drive it for 6,000 miles with only the rear wheels powering the vehicle. This included, city, highway, and gravel roads. I finally got to the salvage yard to pull an intact front ds, replaced the u-joint and cv joint and reinstalled it. I then moved the selector switch back to AWD. The transfer case functioned perfectly fine for 6000 more miles. I actually just removed the front ds again the other day and have been driving it for the past two days in 4hi. I am currently swapping my tc and switch to a 2wd-4hi loc-4lo loc transfer case as I really like to do burnouts as well as a little drifting on the gravel backroads, lol.
However, do not remove your front ds and try to drive in the AWD/FT4WD switch/shifter position. First off, you won't go anywhere, lol. Secondly attempting this will damage your transfer case. If you've ever heard the noise it makes when you try, it's clearly not good for it.
All this being said, I've got a perfectly good np244d transfer case for sale in a few days when the rest of my parts arrive. If you aren't going to listen to first hand advice from the people on this forum, then why the hell even post your question. Unless your reason for posting was just to argue. There's my 5cents.
 
okay so i have a problem mine squeaks if the durango moves drive or reverse its driving me insane its a constant squeak too i have traced it to the front of the transfer case where the front drive shaft is. any ideas please help its driving me crazy
 
Sounds like the jury is still out on whether you can drive an AWD without the front drive shaft/prop shaft without causing damage. I went more than 96K miles on the original, but have burned through two replacement shafts (installed at the local shop) in less than 100 miles each. The shop's at a loss and are suspecting there's something else, but because I've already paid over $600 to correct the problem, I'm kinda hitched to this shop. What could cause two brand new shafts to fail in such short order?
 
front drive shaft

my Dakota front drive shaft does not bolt on at the transfere case I suppose it is should pull out but it wont I believe its kinda like the front axles on my Durango on pulled out the took a few hours of swinging a sledge hammer
does any one know if it does pull out or do I need to pull a c clip in the transfer case first I REALLY DONT WANT TO BREAK ANY THING
 
My front shaft is making noise to can I drive it like that without worrying about it breaking
YES. As far as I know, this is a common problem on Dakotas and I just dealt with it myself. The way the front driveshaft is made, I guess is kind of a cheesy one, with the whole CV joint in the middle of it. The CV joint wears out and causes play. Then it makes some god-awful noise whenever I'm driving that sounds like chains dragging under my truck. Anyway, there's no way to fix it, and then driveshaft needs to be replaced. You can either buy another stocker for probably pretty cheap, OR you can do what I did and buy a new, heavy duty greaseable one for about 250 bucks. If you buy another stocker, you run the risk of having it happen again, but mine JUST happened at about 100k, so I'm sure as long as your not doing any heavy off roading, you should be fine. The heavy duty ones replace the CV joint, and put a U-joint on both ends. I plan on throwing mine on the truck this weekend, I will let you know how everything bolts up. :mullet:
 
front drive shaft

my Dakota front drive shaft does not bolt on at the transfere case I suppose it is should pull out but it wont I believe its kinda like the front axles on my Durango on pulled out the took a few hours of swinging a sledge hammer
does any one know if it does pull out or do I need to pull a c clip in the transfer case first I REALLY DONT WANT TO BREAK ANY THING
My 01 durango front shaft is making noise to how long can I drive it like that or will it break on me
 
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