Hi i got a 2000 dakota 5.9 4x4 quad cab . I have a k&n ,fi hughes intake , custum 2 1/4 y pipes to single 3inch whit high flow cat. When i putt at last my fi airgag intake i gain rpm nice but i loss very good low end torque that i would like to get back a bit . So i was thinking a cam , my question is :in my situation do y need a good towing cam to get back some end torque or it will work more against the set up and be worst .or do i need a cam from1500 to 5000 and i will regain bottom torque anyways.im unexperienced whit cam selection. Thank a lot if anyone can help and i forgot my gear ratio is 3.55 whit 265 or 31 inch tire
Cam selection ?????
Mikedak
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Hi i got a 2000 dakota 5.9 4x4 quad cab . I have a k&n ,fi hughes intake , custum 2 1/4 y pipes to single 3inch whit high flow cat. When i putt at last my fi airgag intake i gain rpm nice but i loss very good low end torque that i would like to get back a bit . So i was thinking a cam , my question is :in my situation do y need a good towing cam to get back some end torque or it will work more against the set up and be worst .or do i need a cam from1500 to 5000 and i will regain bottom torque anyways.im unexperienced whit cam selection. Thank a lot if anyone can help and i forgot my gear ratio is 3.55 whit 265 or 31 inch tire
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2,386 Posts
Headers and gearing will give you more low end.
I have a pair of used flowtech on right now and they start leeking after a week so now i know to never buy use headers butt i was planing to get a pair of gibson.for the tire size i bout the truck whit those on its 265 75 r17 on rt chrome wheel and the well 10 or 12 bolts thats a good question , i know it a big one compare to the 3 oder dakota that ive ad in the pass.
Ive had all these parts before k&n full exhaust and its realee when i putt that air gap on that the torque when down butt i new before i bot it whit the dyno sheets that they show at hughes engine .but i wanted more rpm and know i want to keep that rpm butt regain a bit of bottom torque . Thanks the gear advice
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Going from a 3.55 to a 3.92 will not help much. 4.56s is what i suggest
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i would say do a set of 4.10s, and if thats not enough, try a 2800 stall convertor before cracking open the engine for a cam.... unless you feel like building a complete engine on the side....LOL a cam is not just a drop in thing...you may need different pushrods, you may even need to have your pistons fly cut to clear the valves.... lot easier to do on a stand than in the truck.....
I think ive figure out the problem whit my bottom end torque loss when i putt that fi air gap on. In the kit hughes gives a spacer adaptor if you want to keep the stock throttle body on like i did,the intake is dual plane specialy to keep botton torque butt the 3 inchs thick spacer adaptor is open so this meens that my intake is actualy acting like a single plane .i think the probleme is resolved.whit my tite budget ill take the adaptor of and weld a plate in the middle to keep it a reel dual plane.feel free to comment thanks
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That would actually shorten the intake path thus pushing the powerband higher yet, ans you would fell less torque down low....
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My buddy will tell ya thats a load of bs....he had both an m1 and a hughes, drove it with the m1, belueved all the hype about the hughes, sold his m1 and got the other......he hates it....
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THIS........:bow::clap2::clap2::bow:
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Not according to my friend that has a 400+hp at the crank r/t with 4.56s he says he gets better MPG now. It will go up about 400rpms with 4.56s on the freeway. So just go 60 on the freeway and forget about it. Its worth all the off the line acceleration you gain :mullet:
There's more to it than just gears. You also have to determine what size tires you are going to run and what your RPMs are going to be through the traps with everything is complete. I know a few guys early on who put in 4.56 gears and raved about them only to have to either buy taller slicks later on or drop back down to a smaller gear because they were running out of RPMs at the end of the 1/4 mile.
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