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97-99 will work, Dakota or Durango will work fine. 00-04 UCAs are the same too just have to run a 97-99 cross bar in them, not sure about the 00-04 LCAs though.
 
Discussion starter · #9 · (Edited)
It bothers me. When I go from reverse to drive I can hear the bolt shift a little. When you drill a hole crooked that was pre-drilled straight you make the hole look like an hour glass. Wide at the front and rear opening and narrow in the middle. Plus I dont feel its safe.
 
Just drill it through and use a through bolt and lock washer / nut, or a self locking nut and flat washer. That would still be perfectly safe and the process will straighten the bolt out too for a fraction of the cost and labor.
As an aside, and not knowing where you are located... I just removed my two front control arms to install lowering ones on a truck that has spent it's 11 year life on the road in the rust zone. To say the pivot bolt removal was a b*tch would be putting it mildly.
 
I wish more people would be willing to do the job right, not cut corners, and hack shit together. Good call replacing it for the simple fact that you don't feel that its safe.
 
There is nothing unsafe about a through bolt with a lock nut in that application...knock yourself out and do what you think is right. :banana2:
 
Not at all. As 9t9 says you can do as you choose. But to suggest that a through bolt is something unsafe does lack in it. Now if you want to tell me you are building a 100 point concourse restoration I could see it. At that point there's no comprising but for a safe repair of a simple shock mount you should never see any kind of stress loads that would beyond the clamping strength of a good bolt and lock nut.
 
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