I saw that in the stroker kit, the rods are still 6.123 rods. Could I just use the stock forged steel 6.123 rods, the custom pistons for the 318-390 stoker, and buy a cast 4.00" stroke crank for the 318 from jegs instead of buying the 1300 dollar kit. If I do it this way i save around 400 dollars without a sacrafice in quality. Still forged steel rods and maybe the cast crank isnt as good as a forged one but its plenty strong for the application i will be using it in. What do you guys think?
318 to 390 stroker
greendak97
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I saw that in the stroker kit, the rods are still 6.123 rods. Could I just use the stock forged steel 6.123 rods, the custom pistons for the 318-390 stoker, and buy a cast 4.00" stroke crank for the 318 from jegs instead of buying the 1300 dollar kit. If I do it this way i save around 400 dollars without a sacrafice in quality. Still forged steel rods and maybe the cast crank isnt as good as a forged one but its plenty strong for the application i will be using it in. What do you guys think?
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you can but i'd get better rods if your planning on making any power, but its up to you
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There's something better than forged steel rods? I plan on making an assload of torque for towing. I wouldnt ever rev it past 4700 rpm. My main concern is the transmission, I dont think itd be able to handle the torque of a motor like that.
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I beam or H beam would be better which is most likely what the kit you were looking at comes with
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thats true but idk if its worth the extra 400 bucks. I wanna rebuild the bottom end too so i need to save as much as possible without sacrificing quality obviously.
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if your doing a stroker you would be rebuilding the bottom end...
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well i mean machine shop costs, new bearings, new freeze plugs, all that stuff.
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If i do this what intake manifold should I get? I think id probably switch to a carb setup. What about this: Edlebrock dual plane, 750 holley, 1 3/4 primary 3 in collector short tube headers, true dual 2 1/2 exhaust, EQ 2.02 heads, and idk about the cam yet.
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If I am hearing and reading this correctly, you want to build a stroker (390), but you are looking for ways to cut corners on the bottom end? This is the heart and the strength in these engines.
Do it right the first time. Build it for durability and longevity! Plan your build. Use a quality forged crank (Stay away from SCAT), a quality set of H-Beam rods(I-Beam rods of good quality are OK, but I prefer H-Beam) , and a set of forged pistons that keep you in the 9.1 compression ratio.
The machine shop you use will also be the make it or BREAK IT. Find a reputably machine shop that does this kind of work daily, it might cost you more but you wont regret it.
Just my two cents worth.
Weather you are going racing (6000 + RPM)or you are towing a ass load of weight (4700 + RPM)up a 6% grade the bottom end is what is taking the brunt of the punishment.
Do it right the first time. Build it for durability and longevity! Plan your build. Use a quality forged crank (Stay away from SCAT), a quality set of H-Beam rods(I-Beam rods of good quality are OK, but I prefer H-Beam) , and a set of forged pistons that keep you in the 9.1 compression ratio.
The machine shop you use will also be the make it or BREAK IT. Find a reputably machine shop that does this kind of work daily, it might cost you more but you wont regret it.
Just my two cents worth.
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stay with fuel injection, i dont get why everyone wants to do shit like this and then at the last seconds want to halfass it and just stick a carb on it because "working on fuel injection is to hard"
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:mullet:
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I didnt want to spend any money unnecessarily. I figured since the stock rods are forged steel theyd be fine to reuse. The pistons i was looking at are forged steel. The cast crank i was looking at was rated at 500hp. But if i really need the super high quality parts that will cost me an arm and a leg i guess i have no choice but to get those.
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I didnt think I could stay fuel injection cause the engine is a whole lot bigger, wont i need a diff ecu?
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Keep your fuelly set up man. Why would you want to carb a daily driver? Fuel injection is no harder to set up than a carb and then u can leave it alone after a pcm flash instead of having to always mess with the carb. Carbs are for racecars and classics IMHO.
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I much do you figure ill end up having to spend at the machine shop.
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