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How to change the HEADLIGHT SWITCH lighting to LED (1998-2004):

The headlight switch is a bit different than the HVAC and gauge lights. The light bulb is on a long base, which lines it up with "light pipes" inside the switch. These "pipes" direct the light to all of the labels on the front of the switch. For this you will need a RAW 3mm LED, and a 470 ohm resistor. Unlike the 'bulb replacement' LEDs which are a direct swap for their incandescent counterparts, you cannot connect a raw LED directly to 12v because it will burn out instantly. You need a resistor to limit the current and drop the voltage. This how-to will show you the steps of replacing the bulb for an LED.
This.
This is how you write a "how to" post.


You will see the two holes in the base. One of them will have to be drilled out to accommodate the LED's resistor. Use a 7/64" drill bit and very slow drill speed and VERY CAREFULLY drill down approximately 1/4". You do not have ANY room for error here. If you don't go STRAIGHT down, you will drill right through the side of the base.
I'm glad I have 3. :)
 
okay cool... I will be shooting out a pm, and this means i have one less bulb to buy :D
 
Seeing all this really makes me want to go outside and rip my dash out and get my gauges lighting up lime green. unfortunately, I'll have to wait until the semester ends because right now it's -28 degrees F with 18 inches of snow on the ground and no garage to work in. In the mean time, I'll look into some LED's for my dome lights. This will most definitely be a summer full of mods.
Unfortunately with the stock mask, that's not going to be possible with LED..:sorry: Because of the blue filter embedded in the mask, with green LED all of the white areas should light up blue, and the yellow part should light up, but the redlines will be dark. The yellow component in the green should light up the needles somewhat, but it's not going to look like what you're expecting at all.

And I know what you're thinking, the stock uses a yellow bulb to make green light.. LED doesn't work that way. Any filter material that doesn't match the wavelength of the LED is going to block the light completely. It doesn't "sum" the colors like you get with incandescent. Because green is blue+yellow, the effect SHOULD be that blue and yellow filters will pass those parts of the light (albeit dimmer than the whole), but you won't get any 'summing' of colors.
 
If you don't mind the yellow segment and redlines not lighting up at all, then you can use blue. This will give you a deep intense blue everywhere else. The needles will be very dim this way.

If you want everything lit up in its proper colors, then use white. That will give you light blue, but all of the reds yellows, and needles will be completely lit.
 
I just ordered a boatload of bulbs and god only know what I actually ordered. The only thing I know I ordered correctly was for the mod for the headlight switch, so I expect I'll have to be returning stuff and trying again. I wanted to get LED dome lights one of these days so I'll probably just order them when I get the replacement stuff.
 
go to autozone for your dome lights. I got the large square LED, like 30 LEDs? and hooked it up. BRIGHT AS HELL. At night the inside is like blinding.
 
nice i am definatley doing this and the dome lights too thanks for the idea
 
no clue, but i ordered my bulbs, they got shipped today. So tearing down interior tomorrow
 
About to pull the trigger here on some bulbs...not sure if I should get cool white or blue LEDs....

Everything is blue in my interior, would a cool white led light up the face blue?
As I said a couple times now, because of the factory masking, blue will give you a very intense blue on the white markings, but it is going to cause any red markings to not light up at all. You would need to put a red or white source in there as well to get everything lit up. This is what the cool white bulbs will get you. (The tach redline is there, it's just hidden because of the angle of this pic, but you can see the battery and temp redlines, and the heater red segment light up just fine).

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no clue, but i ordered my bulbs, they got shipped today. So tearing down interior tomorrow
Your bases and the loose LED are on the way too, I mailed them this afternoon.
 
As I said a couple times now, because of the factory masking, blue will give you a very intense blue on the white markings, but it is going to cause any red markings to not light up at all. You would need to put a red or white source in there as well to get everything lit up. This is what the cool white bulbs will get you. (The tach redline is there, it's just hidden because of the angle of this pic, but you can see the battery and temp redlines, and the heater red segment light up just fine).

Image




Your bases and the loose LED are on the way too, I mailed them this afternoon.
I'll go for white LEDs then...thanks.

Sorry for the repetitive-ness
 
HAHA mine are on the way :D should be here friday or saturday :D

Thanks Taz
 
Great Post! Question.

Man, your post below with the U-tube video is one of the most helpful I have ever seen. It is plain english and shows how simple the simple stuff is.
I rate this string the highest I've ever rated one. Thank you! clap
Ok, well, I you said just ask so here goes: I had to replace my PCM's Controller to slove a "no bus" / start problem. Everything is good now, with the exception that the rear window defrost indicator (yellow) constantly blinks! It drives me crazy, but the compressor for air and defroster itself both work. This is a 02 Durango so the console is slightly different at the far right HIVAC area. None theless, I see you have a on/off defroster indicator for the Dakota, and the wiring appears the same. I have been told that my dealer has a Gen III scanner with ability to adjust settings. But they disagree. Everything is OEM, and dealer matched VIN with PCM/
Controller. They say is my problem (sob'b...) any how any thpughts would be appreciated!!!:




ok. lets start from the top and say my information is based upon my experiances that i have has with my 2004 DAKOTA. My information will only apply to the 2001-2004 trucks. now lets begin.

First you need to decide what color you are going for in your dash. I went with the basic blue. Now inorder to achieve the blue that i have (Pictures are at the bottom of this post) you are going to want WHITE leds. For a darker Blue color you would want blue leds. I only recomend doing blue as a change as I do not know how the different colors of leds, such as red, would turn out.

I got my leds off of Amazon.com because I am a cheep for i look for good products at good prices however there are many other reputable dealers such as superbrightleds.com and V-Leds.com. (here is what I ordered) These leds are ONLY FOR THE GAUGES,...to ensure this guild helps you completely. Leds can http://superbrightleds.com then hover your mouse over the banner where is saysbe found on the site by going to "Car Bulbs" .... Your should now b... here is a video to learn how. [url]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=nSY9FpnZV4g


1. Remove the Dash Cowl inorder to expose all the locations leds will be going
I recommend unhooking all of the cables that are connected as the truck becomes rather cramped.

2. On the back of the HAVC controll you will see Three circular pieces of plastic with slots in them. These are the 5mm bulbs that you will be replacing.
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Use a straight slot screw driver to remove these (turn counter clockwise). They may be difficult to get out after turning, carefully use a knife to pry it out if needed. Attempt to insert the new leds into the slots after removing the old ones. If they do not fit at first, like mine did, then you will need to slightly trim the led inorder for it to fit. Use your best judgement as to what needs to be trimmed and do it carefully. What needed trimmed what the parts shown in the picture below.
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.

3. On the back of the light switch, remove the bulb shown in the picture below and replace with the new (4mm) one. Should fit without a problem.
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4. Now for the gauges. I couldn't find a how to remove video for this so i will tell you quickly. To remove the gauge cluster you need to back out the 4 screws that are holding the WHOLE THING in. Don't just remove the plastic cover as this will get you nowhere... Keep in mind that doing this will reset your TRIP METER so if you have something important such as miles till the next oil change then you should write that down. Now pull the gauge cluster out, it may take alittle effort to manoover out. (you will get good at that) On the back you will see this.
Image


To make access to the bulbs easier you can remove the cardboard backing. If you cant figure out how to do that then.. well. yeah. anyway. Remove the bulbs shown by a simple twist counter clockwise. Now for the fun part, removing the bulbs from the sockets. This part may take alittle effort inorder to accomplish, but it is possible i sware. I found that using the end of a pen makes it quite easy. Be careful whall removing not to break the bulb.

Now that the bulbs have been removed simply slide the new bulbs into the sockets. And then put them back in the cluster and put the cluster back. NOT ALL THE BULBS ARE GOING TO LIGHT UP. but try it first by pluging the light switch back in (easier to just remove the unit, also very easy to do) and turning the key to the ON POSITION, don't start the truck. If all the bulbs do not light up there are a few solutions to this. (I had to figure them out :p)

TROUBLESHOOTING THE BULBS NOT LIGHTING UP

Make sure the truck is off and then remove the cluster again. remove each of the bulbs or just the ones not lighting up. pull the led out alittle so that it isnt in the socket ALL THE WAY. If that does not fix the issue then take the led out and turn it around and put it in the other way. leds only work one way. If that doesnt light the bulb up then it is likely that the bulb has gone bad (2 out of 12 of mine didnt work at all), which is common among cheep bulbs.

6. Once all the lights are working we can move onto the tinting over the ODO and Gears. On the front of the cluster, yes you have to take it out again, you will see where the places needing to be tinted are. you will need to remove the clear plastic cover as well. DO NOT REMOVE THE NEEDLES UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING AND HOW TO RESET THEM IF YOU FUCK THEM UP. Get a piece of clear, not fogged clear, tape an cut it to size. Now color the STICKY side of the tape with a blue sharpie (doesnt work with any other brand that i have found) and allow to dry. TAZ DID THIS TOO- "I just wanted to say I tried your 'tape method' on my overhead computer, and it came out decent. I actually improved on it a little though. After I colored the sticky side of the tape, I dipped my finger in rubbing alcohol (91%, not regular) and rubbed the ink. This blended out all of the scribble marks and made it look a lot clearer. As long as you let the alcohol evaporate and don't rub too hard, the stickiness returns to the tape as soon as its dry. Give it a good 5 minutes to dry before you apply it, otherwise it'll bubble up as the alcohol/water try to evaporate."

Now that the tape is dry with whatever method you choose- I only colored it
Lift up the black piece and carefully, making sure not to leave any fingerprints, apply the tape over the ODO and gears. Put the Cluster back together, Test. See that everything is working and reassemble the truck.

:clap2: :banana2: DONE DONE DONE :banana2: :clap2:

My end results

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To answer any other questions that might ensue... no these lights are not going to dim as much as the originals but they will dim slightly. MY needles do look alittle different than what yours will because i shaved mine in this process, but like i said i DO NOT RECOMEND YOU TO REMOVE THE NEEDLES UNLESS YOU KNOW WHAT YOUR DOING AND HOW TO RESET THEM.

I hate to sound like a newfag by asking but please give me rep for this.
This writeup has taken me 2 hours to do. It is now 2:30 in the morning.

HOPE THIS HELPS EVERYONE. ENJOY
 
Cant wait to do this. I just got all my bulbs in the mail today So happy and excited HAHA
 
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