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Caper

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Had my o2 sensor replaced on my 2003 dodge Dourango 4.7 because it was getting lazy. It never set any codes. Now with new sensor, when vehicle gets cold it sets P0135. I went out and bought another sensor and it too sets the above mentioned code when cold. It is almost like the heater in the sensor is not working. Have tried to find how the sensor gets it's power but cannot find a fuse in the tray in the engine area. The fuse box has an area marked o2 sensor but it is empty as well as the o2 sensor relay is also empty. My question is how does the sensor get its power. This vehicle has only two sensors one upstream and one down. Any help would be greatly appreciated ! Thanks in advance!!!
 
How much was it at the dealership?
I have an 02 rt dakota.. I replaced the sensor..Truck runs great..but the light keeps coming back on with the same code even after I clear it..Im guessing I may have to break down and pay the thieves at the local Mopar dealer
 
I have to get new ones too. I too heard denso is your best bet.
 
You'll get a lot of back and forth on which brand to use. I put in Denso on my Durango and I got a heater code. I replaced with Bosch and it cleared. On my Jeep, it does not like Bosch and I have heater codes.
 
That seems to be what is happening..new NGK upstream drivers side and the code came back..Upstream right with a Bosch, and its cleared..I think ill pick one up tomorrow and give it a try..if not, I'll order a denso from Rockauto..
 
part 2...I replaced the PCM(bad) and both o2 sensors(bad)..now the truck runs great...
BUT, I still get the bank 1, sensor 1 code-upstream..i'll keep you updated after I change the sensor in the next few days..
Does ANYONE know how long before the status comes up ready after PCM is replaced?
Bob
 
both at the same time.

it's like wiper blades or tires..
 
I had replaced both 02 sensors in my truck with denso sensors, I did the rear myself and the front I had Monro do (If you try to do it yourself you'll see why, lol) well those piece of shit bastards never tightened the sensor, it was like finger tight. Ended up shorting itself out after a pretty bad rain storm, so never sensor I got I cheaped out on, like $20 ultrapower from rockauto. Haven't had an issue since.

moral of the story, make sure your shit is tight! lol
 
Depending on your cash situation, I would only do the sensor that was bad..I did notice that both my front sensors went within a few miles of each other. Im sure it was coincidence. But if you live in a cold climate and dont want to be under the truck in the winter, probably not a bad idea to replace both sensors, especially if you have over 70k miles.
Most v-8s have 4 sensors, 2 upstream, two downstream( or 2 per cat).
 
My 4.7 only has 2 sensors. Federal emissions.

Both get the same amount of flow past em. Not sure why people think it's okay to skip out on one because of it's location. Same amount of crap will pass through it.
 
My truck is throwing a P132, assume maybe its supposed to have a 0 in it so its P0132 like you guys are saying but Monro said it was P132 anyways its the first o2 sensor. Is that information true? I looked on NAPA and there is like 6 different o2 sensor some with wires some without, which one do i need?
 
You want the direct fit which will come with the correct plug and not the universal which you will have to splice wires to install.
 
You want the direct fit which will come with the correct plug and not the universal which you will have to splice wires to install.
oh okay thank you, and they run about $40-50?
 
If I remember right, I got my O2s for $19 and 29. Orig they are $29 and 39.

I got Denso (OEM), from RockAuto.com (with 5% discount found on this site)
 
My 4.7 only has 2 sensors. Federal emissions.

Both get the same amount of flow past em. Not sure why people think it's okay to skip out on one because of it's location. Same amount of crap will pass through it.
Because the rear one is only there to monitor the cat to make sure the oxygen level coming out is higher than the oxygen level going in (which indicates the cat is working). It does not control the fuel system at all, therefore it does not cause driveability issues, therefore it is not important.

If the front sensor goes bad, it messes with the mixture, which has its own set of consequences depending on whether it shows rich or lean. If the rear sensor goes, worst case scenario it'll set a code and cause you to fail inspection in a state that runs an OBD test, but nothing else.
 
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