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03SXT

· the blue blur...
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
i'm getting injector circuit codes on #5 and #6. i need to know what else besides the pcm, a bad connection, and the injectors would cause this?

things i have checked:

1. injectors - brand new, just put them on, checked the resistance and they were in specs. i had the stockers on before and had the same code so then i went ahead and put my FMS #30'rs on with my billet fuel rails. same code for the same cylinders. cleared the code, drove it down the street to see if it would come back and it did. i know its not the injectors, they are right out of the box and resistance is fine, plus its the same codes so it has to be electrical or a sensor or something.

2. TPS - checked the resistance and it was about 4.6 or so which is supposed to be right IIRC. haven't checked the running voltage, but i may go ahead and get a new one anyway just to be sure.

3. injector connectors - clean, no breaks in the wires, couldnt see any other problem areas between them and the pcm on the wires either. all my grounds were fine too.

i'm going to pull the valve covers and check the rockers and valve springs sometime this week also, just to be sure everything is ok there. i have a mopar performance pcm on it, i don't know if maybe the drivers went bad or something and it could be the pcm causing the issue or not. i'll be getting a new one from e-bay if i have to, but i wanted to exhaust the other options first. could o2's cause it? i'm not going to be driving it even if i get it running as i still need to get it tuned for the bigger injectors, its running a little rich right now but its only going to run to make sure the codes are gone and everything runs good. so what else should i check and look for? any success stories to point me in the right direction? any help is greatly appreciated and repped. thanks.
 
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#2 ·
Injector codes are very specific and there really isn't anything else that is going to casue an injector code other than a fault on the injector circuit itself, this includes the injector on back to the pcm. Basically you are going to be checking the injector itself and unless you have a way to scope the injector the best you can do is ohm it out...which you said you did. Next would be to check for power to the injector in question while the engine is running, after that you need to check the control side of the injector with the vehicle running but before you do any of this pay very close attention to the injector wiring, go as far as opening up the harness adn make sure that there are no bare injector wires touching each other inside of the harness, also pay very close attention to the injector power splice pack, it is located inside the harness by the #5 injector, the splice becomes compromised adn can casue a power issue with the injectors, also the wiring where it goes into the injector plug is another source for loose connections.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
ok, so to check the power to the injector while its running do i just unplug it and check the voltage on the hot side of the connector? or do i have to probe the wiring itself? i'll check the wiring thoroughly first, then check the power. also, would the fact that there is one on each side of the motor indicate the problem to be closer to the pcm in the wiring or does both sides run to that power pack you mentioned? thanks for the help!
 
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#4 ·
You would want to back probe the power wire at the injector with it still connected to the injector while the engine is running. On the control side of the injector hook a test light to + and then backprobe the injector with the engine running and the test light should flash every time the injector fires.

The splice pack supplies power for all the injectors and just because one injector has proper power doesn't meant they all do. It would be rare that you have 2 injector drivers in the pcm go out at once. I would be more suspect of a wiring issue adn being that you said it is running rich I would be looking for the injector control wire shorting to ground or another injector control wire and causing the injector to stay open all the time.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
ok cool. i'll give that a try. thanks man!
 
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Discussion starter · #6 ·
ok, update....i didn't see any cracks or anything in the wiring harness, i'm not done looking though, gonna recheck like 3x just to be sure, but when i did the test light, the #5 seemed to alternate fine....it blinked with each injection. i checked several of the other good injectors just to compare and it was doing the same as the rest, so idk what's going on with it, but the #6 was dead. neither wire would light up the test light....i'm going to go over the wires as good as i can from the #6 back, but its kind of hard to tell further back because of all the other crap in the way. so i assume bc the #6 is dead the other injectors are injecting more fuel to make up for the dead injector which is why it is running rich....would that be accurate? so aside from going over the wiring harness as best i can, what's my next move? any other things i can test that will speed up this process? thanks.
 
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Discussion starter · #8 ·
correct. even the #5 has power even though it's showing a code for it. idk if it has power issues beyond the time i test it but so far the three times i tested it, it lit up and blinked rapidly just the same as all the rest, the only one that is dead seems to be #6. i'm going to go through the wiring as thoroughly as possible in the next few days and see what i can do. i'll update if i can't figure it out. i HATE electrical issues...thanks for the help man.
 
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Discussion starter · #10 ·
checking the injector plug? no, i read through google that it wasn't a good idea to do that while it was running, something about it could screw up the computer, so i just probed it with the test light.
 
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#12 ·
You can also rent a noid light kit from your local auto parts store. Plugs right into the injectors connector and flashes when it gets power. Alot easier and more accurate then trying to manually probe it. The injector may be getting power, but no ground. Or power & ground, but no command pulse (if its a three wire connector). A noid light will tell you if the injector is getting power and ground when it should, etc.

Even though you have two codes, I'd concentrate on the one that is not working at all. Its the easiest to track down between the two. Start checking the wires for continuity between the injector connector and the connector at the computer etc with a multi-meter. A visual inspection will only get you so far. A wire can be broken, but you won't see it cause the heat shrink around the wire is covering it up.


03SXT said:
so i assume bc the #6 is dead the other injectors are injecting more fuel to make up for the dead injector which is why it is running rich....would that be accurate?
Click to expand...
No, its not accurate. The other injectors would be squirting the same amount of fuel as if all the injectors were working properly. You should actually be running lean, not rich, since one of the injectors isn't working at all. What makes you think its running rich?


Good luck...
 
#13 ·
Noid lights aren't all they are cracked up to be. The problem with a noid light is that they do not draw enough current to reliably test the circuit so it is very possible that you could plug a noid light in and it blinks but in actuality the circuit is bad adn will not fire the injector.

With a dead injector it would be running rich..heres the reasoning behind it. With a cylinder that is not firing there is an abundance of oxygen in the exhaust because it isn't being consumed by combustion, the O2 sensor sees this adn then tries to richen the mixture becasue it thinks it's lean from all the oxygen
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
I haven't had a chance to check it out anymore yet, but I'll get around to it. I know it's rich bc I have an a/f gauge, normally I sit at about 14.7 or so at idle, but it's running at 10.x right now....plus the strong exhaust smell. If I had the money I'd just take it to a shop bc I hate troubleshooting electrical crap, but I have no choice right now.
 
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Discussion starter · #15 ·
well i replaced the TPS based on some of the replies of the other threads, and the p0205 is gone, but #6 is still throwing the code. i'm going to test the plug tomorrow and go from there. the harness is a PITA to check as the wires are all bunched together and the loom is hard to get out of the way.
 
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Discussion starter · #17 ·
l1tech said:
Just out of curiousity did you clear the codes and then drive it again and check the codes before you replaced the tps? I can't see any way for a faulty tps to set an injector code.
Click to expand...
nah, just replaced it and the codes went away for a few minutes, truck was still running rich, it idled high (1500 rpms) for a minute or two, then calmed down as i adjusted the TPS and tightened down when the idle was about 700 rpm, and after a few revs the #6 code popped back up. it didn't run any differently really so i don't think the problem went away while the code was gone, probably just took a few minutes of reading to trigger the CEL again, or it could have been from having the harness unhooked when i was checking a few things and it cleared the codes then the one came back.
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
beats me. i saw the other thread about the same issues and replacing the tps worked for a few of them so i decided to give it a try. obviously it's not the problem, but it's one more thing i can rule out at least.
 
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Discussion starter · #20 ·
well i pulled the valve cover on the passenger side and found that one of the rockers had came loose, so i fixed that, reset the computer, and so far it hasn't popped a code again. i still have to test drive it when it cools off enough to swap my valve cover back on. strangely, the rocker that was off was on the #4 cylinder intake.....so if it was one of the problems idk why it would effect the #6 injector :huh:. i also used my multi-meter and probed the #6 to check for voltage alternating with each pulse and it did have power to it, wasn't dead like before. i have no idea whether the rocker being loose was the problem or not, but my a/f is back to normal now and no codes. idk what happened, but it seems to be working ok just sitting in the drive-way, i guess a test drive will tell the truth. we shall see.
 
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