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Discussion starter · #23 ·
1990 3.9 2wd auto tranny

I changed the oil and the filter today.10w30 penzoil and a prolator filte.The light comes on less frequent as before..sometimes at idle is doesn't even come on and the pressure doesn't drop.
 
Hopefully you didn't hurt the motor/oil pump by running too much oil. My wife's uncle had a 3.9 Dak. He's not the brightest people. He decided he wanted to save some money doing his own oil change, so after 3K miles, he just dumped in 5 qts of fresh oil and started driving again. Didn't drain the old oil and didn't change the filter. Truck started smoking bad before someone else checked on it to find out it was over filled. drained all the oil out and put 5qt of fresh oil in and a new filter, but after that the truck never ran right again. It knocked and burned oil. They eventually sold it so some illegal farm laborer in the area and got a different vehicle,.
 
Discussion starter · #25 ·
Hopefully you didn't hurt the motor/oil pump by running too much oil. My wife's uncle had a 3.9 Dak. He's not the brightest people. He decided he wanted to save some money doing his own oil change, so after 3K miles, he just dumped in 5 qts of fresh oil and started driving again. Didn't drain the old oil and didn't change the filter. Truck started smoking bad before someone else checked on it to find out it was over filled. drained all the oil out and put 5qt of fresh oil in and a new filter, but after that the truck never ran right again. It knocked and burned oil. They eventually sold it so some illegal farm laborer in the area and got a different vehicle,.
Lucky it didn't come to that for me.It runs good and i'm going to change the sensor and go from there.
 
I seem to be losing oil pressure when i come to a stop but it goes back up when i start to move again.I know their is enough oil in my truck,but the gauge drops and the little oil can light comes on.


Any ideas as to the problem?


p.s my truck is a 1990 3.9 auto 2wd
Run some motor flush through it and put in a new sender.
 
If you had 8-9 quarts of oil in it, the crank was slapping in the oil and whipping it full of air. The oil/air mixture will not hold pressure, so that is where the fluctuating gauge came from. Depending on how long it was like that and if you are lucky, you didn't do any long term damage to the engine. I wouldn't bet on it though.
If you have bad valve seals, I would replace them, at the least I would check the oil every couple of days and if the level is OK, maybe go a week between checks. Do not wait a month and just add oil with out checking the level.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
the pressure is dropping down but not as much as before.The gauge would go all the way down like the power was cut..now its only going down to the low side.
The oil light will flickers on and off slightly if i'm idling in drive but not in park.
 
I did the diesel flush and it cleared this problem up for me. I guess the previous owner was a shit head. Maybe you should try it and possibly keep up on maintence? Not filling it with 8 quarts.
 
i have the same problem this is what i read about it and my mec did it i have had no more problems
From:



RE: 1998 Dodge Durango - 318cid V8 engine - 61,562 miles - oil pressure dropped to zero - happened several times - oil pump pickup screen was completely clogged, not with sludge, but with carbon deposits



08/2001 – I bought a pre-owned 1998 Dodge Durango with a 318cid V8 engine and 61,562 miles. Now, I had no idea how the previous owner had maintained this vehicle so to be on the safe side, I purchased an extended bumper to bumper 7,000 mile warranty which came with 24, “free” 3000 mile dealership oil changes. As I realized later, it was one of the best investments I could have made with this Durango ($3400.00 worth of warranty repairs unrelated to my oil problem)!



Anyway, here’s my oil pressure ordeal: At 74,234 miles (warranty expired several thousand miles ago) I was driving on the highway and the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 for about 4 seconds. The “Check Gauges” dummy light also came on and I heard the “you have a problem chime”. I immediately pulled to the side of the highway, shut the engine off and checked the engine oil level. The level was right at the full mark so, I restarted the engine and everything seemed fine.



At that point I figured “better safe than sorry”, I used one of my “free” oil change stubs and had the oil changed at the dealership. I also replaced the oil sending unit at that time. Life was good until the same condition resurfaced at: 74,678 miles, 75,469 and 75,866. Each time I shut the engine down and checked the oil level which was always at or just below the full mark. I continued to drive the vehicle until that dreaded day arrived. At 77,243 miles, the oil pressure gauge dropped to 0 and did not return to normal. Again I shut it down and checked the oil level. It was good.



I restarted the engine and my worst fear was confirmed, as the slight tap-tap-tap rang louder with each second. I shut the engine off and knew that I had no oil flow. Being mechanically inclined I decided to complete the repair myself (at the time I suspected a bad oil pump). I had the vehicle towed and I began my work. After removing the engine oil pan the problem was evident. The oil pump pickup screen was completely clogged, not with sludge, but with carbon deposits.



There was no visible sludge at all. I removed the oil pump and screen and was able to clean the screen with a wire brush and a lot of cleaner. I tested the pump and it worked fine but I decided to replace it with a TRW High Volume unit just to be on the safe side. Upon further investigation, I discovered that the entire lower end of the motor was covered in this “carbon deposit” material. The crank lobes, block walls and every other non moving part was covered with this stuff.



Again, I went at it with the wire brush and many gallons of cleaner. As a final measure, I reinstalled the oil pan filled the crankcase with oil and two quarts of Decarbonizing Engine Flush, ran the motor for 10 minutes, drained the oil and pulled the pan. To my surprise, the oil pump pickup screen already had more buildup on it. I cleaned the screen, replaced the pan and filled the crankcase with 5 quarts of oil, 1 gallon of diesel fuel and ran the engine for 3 minutes.



What I was looking for here was a good internal engine rinse to get rid of any loose carbon deposits. I repeated this process until what I was draining came out clean (the first rinse came out black). It took three of these oil/diesel flushes to complete the job. I then pulled the pan one final time, cleaned the oil pump pickup screen and reassembled the Durango. I now have 120,265 miles on the same engine and have not had any additional oiling problems.



I change my oil religiously at 3000 miles and use a decarbonizing oil flush at each oil change. Where, how and why this buildup is occurring I don’t know. But I can tell you this, I have owned other vehicles with 170,000+ miles on them and never had the amount of problems that I’ve had with this Durango. If you are loosing oil pressure stop driving your Durango and have the oil pump screen checked out. And do not run your engine at all if your oil pressure reads 0! Doing so will result in engine failure.




From: Message Author (click here to email author)
Date: Friday, 07-Nov-03 00:00:00 CST
 
ok so i had a low oil preasure problem as well 97 dakota 318, i tore down the motor oil pick up screen was clear if you are going to go through all the work of dropping the oil pan replace the oil pump there is a small i mean very small metal tube that was completly clogged up...another thing if there are alot of mile you might as well tear it down and do a complete rebuild using top end parts for mine and taking it 20 over i spent alttle over 1200 bucks and doing all the work my self to include heads. that sensor is bogus because you can clean the old on and it works fine.
 
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