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danbap

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
i want to install electric fans on my truck and get rid of the clutch fan. what is every one running? theres so many to choose from. there dosn't seem to be alot of room between the radiator and the pulley where the clutch one is mounted. 4" maybe. and what did you do for a shroud? lets see pics too.

thanks.
 
Lincoln Mk VIII

Mine is a V6 so there is loads of room. Had to make brackets to match the Ford shroud and bolt it together so it was 1/8" from the radiator.

The radiator tank is from Advance auto.

The Windshield wash tank is from K-Mart. It's a kitchen storage container I drilled a center hole in the bottom and four more for a 3/8" pipe flange, lots of RTV to seal it. The stock (2003) Dak pump has an inlet that is the same size, some fittings and I run the stock pump and wiring.

Hayden controller is mounted with a piece of aluminum angle in front of the battery and the sensor is right at the return. I piggybacked the wiring on the stock relay and have not had code problems. 30 amps fuse has not blown in over a year.

180 t-stat, the fan is set for on at 195, off at 185. Engine temp is always right. And it's quiet...!!!

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Ditch the stock shroud and go with the one that comes with your fan. I've been running the Black Magic 180 for a couple years now, and I'm pretty happy with it.

You can hardly see the fan from the front, but I like it that way:
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im running the viper fan and have no problems with it at all. i dont even have to use the high speed.
 
I'm running a custom made SPAL fan/shroud from Steven Zeal in Cali. Using a JAZ overflow bottle for the radiator, and you can use the stock '97-'99 washer fluid reservoir.

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Good pic of washer fluid reservoir
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older piccture before I relocated the overflow from passenger too drivers side.
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Also using the SPAL fan-pwm controller. Have it mounted inside the fender behind the battery. Thiss is a VERY NICE controller. You can either use a SPAL temp sensor or tap into your stock temp sensor, and you program in the turn on temps yourself. Starts the fan off at 60% speed, and rampss up the speed as needed to maintain the "low" turn on temp. Goes to full speed when you hit the "high" programmed temp, or when you turn the A/C or defrost on. You tap into the clutch signal wire for the A/C compressor for the A/C input. and even then, it starts the fan off at 60% speed and slowly ramps it up to high speed. This is better on the fan motor and allows for longer fan life. And when you turn the A/C off, if the engine is below the "low" temp setting, it will slow the fan down to 60% fan speed before turning off completely. I'm running a 195 t-stat forr the winter months. Have fan set to come on at 200 degrees, and high temp is 215. The fan rarely even turns on unless I turn on the defrost with it programmed like that. I am using the SPAL temp sensor which is screwed into the extra port on the M1. Allows you to program the low and high settings closer to each other than trying to use the stock sensor. It's a bit spendy though at $120, but well worth it IMO.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
thank you guys, keep the pics and info coming. one thing i have noticed it seems like you gen 3 guys have more room between the radiator and pulley.
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Also using the SPAL fan-pwm controller. Have it mounted inside the fender behind the battery. Thiss is a VERY NICE controller. You can either use a SPAL temp sensor or tap into your stock temp sensor, and you program in the turn on temps yourself. Starts the fan off at 60% speed, and rampss up the speed as needed to maintain the "low" turn on temp. Goes to full speed when you hit the "high" programmed temp, or when you turn the A/C or defrost on. You tap into the clutch signal wire for the A/C compressor for the A/C input. and even then, it starts the fan off at 60% speed and slowly ramps it up to high speed. This is better on the fan motor and allows for longer fan life. And when you turn the A/C off, if the engine is below the "low" temp setting, it will slow the fan down to 60% fan speed before turning off completely. I'm running a 195 t-stat forr the winter months. Have fan set to come on at 200 degrees, and high temp is 215. The fan rarely even turns on unless I turn on the defrost with it programmed like that. I am using the SPAL temp sensor which is screwed into the extra port on the M1. Allows you to program the low and high settings closer to each other than trying to use the stock sensor. It's a bit spendy though at $120, but well worth it IMO.
good info i was thinking of getting a control like this instead of just an on/off.
 
Well, the '00+ trucks definitely do as they put the radiator father forward inside the radiator support, instead of behind it like on the '97-'99 Daks. With a good shroud, you could always off set the fan inside the shroud the clear the waterpump though.
 
I believe i have my old Spal controller laying around somewhere im not using
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
pm'd
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
There is a ton of room on my gen 2... moreso that my gen3!

Mark8 fan is 4.5" deep. Clears the waterpump by 3/8".
???

ill have to measure agian but i dont think there is 4.5" on mine.
 
Discussion starter · #17 ·
on a gen 2???? 1994????
 
Have the 180 Extreme. Works great but I did upgrade to the flex a lite variable speed controller part # 31163, got it from Jegs. I didn't really like the standard controller that comes with 180. It's runs at 100% all the time and it's kind of loud and a little annoying when it comes on. The VSC has a soft start and and doesn't ramp up to 100% until temp goes up another 10 degrees from set point, much quieter. Also, was having a little trouble dialing in a consistent temperature with the probe type that fits in the radiator fins. The 31163 VSC reads actual water temp, with a sending unit that fits in the upper radiator hose. I installed it with an Auto Meter T fitting part # 2283.
 

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will the vsc fit in the block? or is it recomended for the upper hose? don't like the looks of it right there would like to have it hidden
 
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