You can get that, but check Amazon for it. You do need the OBD-II cable. And some SD cards will not work, not sure why, but some are finiky.

 

Well I have 3 different cards, my sister has one, my mom has one, and my fiance has 2. I'm sure one will work. lol

So how does one log anyway? Will Sean need a log of me doing an average cruise, idle, and WOT.

Would it be OK to just run the cable through the door and close the door on it? I don't really want to tear everything apart to route the cable.

 

Yea, I am sure one will work.

You should be fine it you make sure it does not get crushed. Logging is not the easiest at first, but once you set up the handheld its not bad at all. I have mine hardwired in so that it turns on and has a gauge when I turn on the truck. Pretty hard to describe how to set it up, but once its done you just hit record and drive. He should be able to tell you what he needs to get a good tune down.

 

Have you done anything to make it not lock up? Mine will lock up but I think its due to the inconsistent electrical gremlins with voltage spikes. I don't know how to test an electrical system for that...lol

 

Eh, I don't really need a permanent setup. I figured I'd just throw it on whenever I wanted to log. I wonder how much power I'll gain from a custom mod with my current setup. I plan on doing cams and heads at some point, probably next year, so it'll be necessary either way.

Ugh, I hate that I've run out of cheap mods. lol

 

Better headers would help when you do head and cam.

 

Some longtubes or mids would be better, I know, they are damn expensive though. Plus the install on the shorties was hard enough. I got the shorties for $100, so i figure they were worth it. haha

 

Yea, they are not hurting you. Get some mids unless you plan on going crazy. I ran my times with spintech mids. They are not to bad to install either. Find some used ones on here, they are made really well and as long as the port plates are good you should have no problems.

 

Yeah, I'd have to have the exhaust shop redo some of the work they did for that though. They cut the back of the y-pipe and welded it directly to the 3" tubing they put in. It wouldn't be as simple as removing the stock Y and using the spintech Y.

Plus I wouldn't have the cats any more, so it may or may not throw codes depending on who you listen to. That, and I'm not sure the exhaust shop would be comfortable working with it if it meant the removal of all the cats. I had to talk him into removing my 3rd cat.

 

Alright, well Sean said he only needed a WOT run for now, until I get heads and cams. That seems odd to me though, wouldn't the tune for WOT have little effect on normal part throttle driving? I rarely go WOT, so if it'll only help there, I might not bother for now.

 

At part throttle the sensors can adjust on the fly and learn to be correct. WOT is more of a set type of tuning.

 

just seems odd though, I felt a nice part throttle boost when I first got my SCT. If it just tunes for WOT, why would I feel a difference at part throttle?

 

No, the tune did make a difference and what you felt is right. But once you get close the PCM can tune better at part throttle. For WOT there is a lot to gain on a dyno because you can play with timing, fuel, spark.....

 

Ahh, so I guess for part throttle, Sean puts a ballpark tune on it, then lets the PCM narrow it down to the right A/F ratio. I guess that makes sense. Now I just need to save up a little cash and buy one.

Oh, yeah, I looked on amazon, they are cheaper on ebay. I can't believe how much it is to buy them straight from Innovate. You'd think adding a middle man would increase the price. Weird

 

By lock up do you mean the a/f readings cause mine does that from time to time, I just disconnect the power source a couple of times until it fixes it... Not sure what causes it but I only need it to run right when I data log and I haven't had an issue getting it to do so then so I can live with it.

 

Yea, so does mine. I'm not sure either but I think it has to do with inconsistent voltage but I'm not sure.

Never had any issues with mine.

Lucky! Did you hardwire yours in or do you have plugged in to the outlet all the time? Do you manually connect/disconnect your OBD II port?

 

Made a hundred bucks tonight at work. I might order this one sooner rather than later. Just waiting on a quote from the exhaust shop on installing the O2 bung.

Speaking of, where would be the best place to put it? I'd assume right around the stock front O2 sensor?

 

Speaking of, where would be the best place to put it? I'd assume right around the stock front O2 sensor?

yup. after the cat any readings would be next to useless... ...unless your dealing with emissions testing

 

Figured as much. thanks

 

Put it as close to merge of the collector as you can.

 

lm-2

i have a brand new lm-2 that i may be willing to part with if you want...open to offers.

 

I got mine all routed into the ceter console... As for the power I use the accessory plug in in the center console, just had to rewire it to cut on and off with the key so I can just keep it plugged in and all I have to do is plug in the OBDII when I am ready to data log and unplug when finished. Took a while to figure out how to use it and exactly how hemifever wanted it for email tunes but now that I know I can data log and convert it alot faster.

 

I got mine all routed into the ceter console... As for the power I use the accessory plug in in the center console, just had to rewire it to cut on and off with the key so I can just keep it plugged in and all I have to do is plug in the OBDII when I am ready to data log and unplug when finished.

That is actually how I have mine done.

 

Great minds think alike I guess... Now if I can just get my truck to run in the 10's like you I would be happy, just gotta get 12's first!

 

I skipped 13's and 12's all together.

 

Now just how in the HELL did you do that? I would assume a fully forged 408 build??? Best run I had was 14.2 but thats with the first tune from Hemifever, the 52mm F&B, and no meth... Oh and what gear ratio you running? I am still on the fence about installing the 4:56's. I would like to think between the 58mm, meth, and tune I will skip 13's and land myself in the mid 12's but I have been dissapointed a few times before, LOL!

 

You will need a lot more than that to skip 13's. Plan on Cam, heads, RR, TB and tune to possibly touch 12's.

I went from all bolts-ons to a full blown forged 408 with a paxton supercharger.

 

Maybe it's a long shot but I think I will get the 12's once I get everything installed and dialed in... Like I said the 14.2 was with the 52mm, belt slip, can tune, and no meth... Now I got slicks, rock solid 12 psi about to be 16, stage 2 Snow meth kit, 58 F&B, M1 4bbl, have always had the 1.7 Harland Sharp RR, and like I said... when the track opens back up I have alot of tuning to do to get this thing dialed in! I would like to think that I was loosing alot on the base tune cause I beleive hemifever turned my timing WAY back and was saving it for once he got the fuel right so turning the timing up should be the key here. I have everything imaginable done to the motor minus longblock and thats next, should be gunning for your times then!

 

Oh sorry, I did not see the blower.

 

One things for sure I have a SHIT load of $$$ in this thing and keep spending... All the while I am looking at my roommates '65 mustang coupe out back thinking that with the money I have spent on parts for my truck I could have tubbed/caged the stang and build a motor for spray and have been way faster for way cheaper even after I bought the car! Still might do it, this truck is a F$%KING pig compared to that car in race trim!

 

So you think 12's are possible then?

 

Yea, should not be a problem at all. Get with Bryan on Dakota R/T and see what he has. He went 11's with his.

 

Is his set up comparable to mine? Whats his sceen name? Oh and maybe you can help me out, a few people have told me that if I go with the 4:56's that I will run through my power band to fast, something to do with the blower but I don't understand this so maybe you could clear it up for me? I know that I will be hitting the rev limiter before I reach the other end till I get some good springs and valvetrain that can allow me to up the limiter but just don't understand the other.

 

http://dakotart.com/forum/showpost.php?p=163055&postcount=16

I would stick to 3.92's with the blower. I ran my times with 3.92's, going to switch to 3.55's or lower to keep the turbo happy.

 

Wish I had the cash for some forced induction. I've already got the 3.55's. haha

 

Well F-it... Between what you and everybody else both here and on the track has told me about not going to the 4:56's with the blower I beleive I will just sell them. I figure if you ran 10's on 3:92 and are talking about going to a higher gear I should take the advice and run with it... Seems like you got something right!

 

I'm looking for some gears. Not sure if I want to go to 4.56, but I might reconsider if the price is right.haha

 

Well it's a Yukon brand 4:56 gear set with basic install kit (crush sleeve, pinion seal, cover gasket...)
I bought it through Randy's Ring & Pinion. I paid $331.51 for the gear set and $16.06 for the install kit, a total of $347.57 that I paid. Would let it go for $325 shipped assuming that shipping is gonna kick my ass or $300 and you pay shipping. Either way I would think you are saving money on it and maybe it's not that good of a deal at all but I am not hurting for money so I can be stingy on the price, LOL! But let me know if you are interested or not...
Oh and as always I am up for trades if you got something that I need.