What kind of electric fans are you guys using. I was checking the one on AirRam.com but not sure if you know of any cheaper or if theres any junk yard cars I would be able to use.
Electric Fan
SRTGallardo
1 - 7 of 54 Posts
Well, Derale makes a PWM controller (soft starts, helps avoid the inrush problem the Mark VIII has). It's at http://derale.com/products/electric-fans/fan-controllers/pwm-controller/ .
It can also take the A/C clutch signal as an input to drive the fan then also.
Disclaimer: I have no idea how well it does, or does not, work. I just know it's there.
RwP
It can also take the A/C clutch signal as an input to drive the fan then also.
Disclaimer: I have no idea how well it does, or does not, work. I just know it's there.
RwP
*blink*
*blink*
I think you may want to re-read and edit that "low" comment there.
But.
Derale makes a few dual-speed fan controllers, as does Hayden and I'm positive others do also.
Or, if you have two fans, you can always run two controllers (you just need to insert two probes in the radiator, or find two bosses to use for the NPT ones.)
RwP
*blink*
I think you may want to re-read and edit that "low" comment there.
But.
Derale makes a few dual-speed fan controllers, as does Hayden and I'm positive others do also.
Or, if you have two fans, you can always run two controllers (you just need to insert two probes in the radiator, or find two bosses to use for the NPT ones.)
RwP
With a PWM controller, just wire up the high speed. It'll take care of it.
You don't need multiple speeds.
Matter of fact, the Lincoln Mark VIII fan that everyone seems to like? Is single speed. (If you have one in a Lincoln that is actually two speed, it's a Thunderbird/Cougar unit that got swapped in. Not counting it having three connectors - two are joined together inside the fan for a factory motor!)
RwP
You don't need multiple speeds.
Matter of fact, the Lincoln Mark VIII fan that everyone seems to like? Is single speed. (If you have one in a Lincoln that is actually two speed, it's a Thunderbird/Cougar unit that got swapped in. Not counting it having three connectors - two are joined together inside the fan for a factory motor!)
RwP
I'd recommend ... the one you can get that's good.
Both are good fans. With how many people are running around with only the factory electric on 4.7's around the USA, I can't say you'd need one over the other.
RwP
Both are good fans. With how many people are running around with only the factory electric on 4.7's around the USA, I can't say you'd need one over the other.
RwP
What I meant, J04dakota, is that since so many others are having no problem with the stocker fan, EITHER the Taurus or Mark VIII fan would do the job. Or, for that matter, the high speed PWM'ed on a 4.6-juiced MN12 (Cougar or Thunderbird, 1994-1997) fan.
I understand wanting extra. And with it modulated, having an oversized fan isn't a problem. Shucks, I upgraded to the Extreme Cooling radiator (trim package on the 1988 I own, not a brand!) when I did my water pump, so that I have excess cooling capability!
If using a Mark VIII fan, at least an 80A relay - and I'd use a 100A or larger fuse! - to keep from the fuse popping and the relay welding itself. They have been measured at 75A inrush on new motors, I shudder to think what a tired motor may want.
(That's another reason to use something like Derale's PWM controller ... )
RwP
I understand wanting extra. And with it modulated, having an oversized fan isn't a problem. Shucks, I upgraded to the Extreme Cooling radiator (trim package on the 1988 I own, not a brand!) when I did my water pump, so that I have excess cooling capability!
If using a Mark VIII fan, at least an 80A relay - and I'd use a 100A or larger fuse! - to keep from the fuse popping and the relay welding itself. They have been measured at 75A inrush on new motors, I shudder to think what a tired motor may want.
(That's another reason to use something like Derale's PWM controller ... )
RwP
J04Dakota - Use a simple SPDT relay, and you can still get both.
Find out which side switches. For 2001, it's the GREY wire connected to the 12V feed from the relay in the PDC. Connect the COM terminal (for a Bosch style 5-terminal SPDT relay, it's pin 30) to the fan, the NC contact (pin 87A) to the current wire that's switched.
Take the NO contact (pin 87) to the 12V or Ground leg to complete it instead of the internal logic.
Wire the coil up to 12V --> Pin 85, then Pin 86 --> Switch --> Ground.
If possible, add a 1N5004 diode with the band at Pin 85, other side to Pin 86, to dampen reverse spikes.
That way, the switch will turn the fan ON forced, but if it's turned OFF, the A/C will turn the fan ON.
I don't know for sure ... but my 2001 book says that the GREY wire is switched 12V, so you'd wire the 87 pin to a fuse, and from that to the battery or alternator, or some other place to get a solid 12V. For 2001, it was a 50A switch, so you'd want at least a 65A or bigger relay.
Also, pick the 12V source for the relay coil to be a switched source ('HOT in ON or RUN', not 'ALWAYS HOT').
If you DO grab a Bosch style relay be forewarned - most are only 30 to 40A, and may not last long switching that fan motor.
RwP
Find out which side switches. For 2001, it's the GREY wire connected to the 12V feed from the relay in the PDC. Connect the COM terminal (for a Bosch style 5-terminal SPDT relay, it's pin 30) to the fan, the NC contact (pin 87A) to the current wire that's switched.
Take the NO contact (pin 87) to the 12V or Ground leg to complete it instead of the internal logic.
Wire the coil up to 12V --> Pin 85, then Pin 86 --> Switch --> Ground.
If possible, add a 1N5004 diode with the band at Pin 85, other side to Pin 86, to dampen reverse spikes.
That way, the switch will turn the fan ON forced, but if it's turned OFF, the A/C will turn the fan ON.
I don't know for sure ... but my 2001 book says that the GREY wire is switched 12V, so you'd wire the 87 pin to a fuse, and from that to the battery or alternator, or some other place to get a solid 12V. For 2001, it was a 50A switch, so you'd want at least a 65A or bigger relay.
Also, pick the 12V source for the relay coil to be a switched source ('HOT in ON or RUN', not 'ALWAYS HOT').
If you DO grab a Bosch style relay be forewarned - most are only 30 to 40A, and may not last long switching that fan motor.
RwP
1A should be fine - it's there with the band towards 12V to dampen reverse inductance when the relay cuts off (the same action, when scaled up, is what fires the spark coil ... YEOWCH!) I'd grab a 1N4003, which is 1A 200V, so it should be adequate.
Yes, from the PDC to the fan. I didn't have a FSM for your year, which is why I specified that for 2001 it was yada yada. YMMV, so check the factory service manual.
What that does, is if you leave the inside switch off, the ECU can control the fan motor.
Flip your switch, the relay then toggles to the other side (the NO side) and feeds THAT to the fan.
That should mean that the fan will never be off if the ECU requires cooling.
RwP
Yes, from the PDC to the fan. I didn't have a FSM for your year, which is why I specified that for 2001 it was yada yada. YMMV, so check the factory service manual.
What that does, is if you leave the inside switch off, the ECU can control the fan motor.
Flip your switch, the relay then toggles to the other side (the NO side) and feeds THAT to the fan.
That should mean that the fan will never be off if the ECU requires cooling.
RwP
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