i need some help deciding on a cam, i want something i can use with the stock comp and not have to change too much out with it right now(pushrods, springs, and rockers) i going to runn full spintech exhaust, m1, holley 52mm tb, k&n intake, let me know what ya think, i do plan on changing to hs rr in the summer and ill prolly change the pushrods and springs too
Cam
Slick
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i need some help deciding on a cam, i want something i can use with the stock comp and not have to change too much out with it right now(pushrods, springs, and rockers) i going to runn full spintech exhaust, m1, holley 52mm tb, k&n intake, let me know what ya think, i do plan on changing to hs rr in the summer and ill prolly change the pushrods and springs too
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8,647 Posts
if you don't want to change push rods etc, your options are narrowed. You will net more power with rr's push rods etc and being able to run a bigger cam. If will benefit you more in the long run.
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your best bet would be something small like the rt cam (from what i heard and can also tell you about it--its not worth the metal its made out of), the r/t+10 cam, or something light to moderate from hughes or socal, or krc maybe. i think mancini racing also.. http://chucker54.stores.yahoo.net/camshaft.html
pretty pricey for one step about stock imo.
with any cam change though, you want to be certain that the springs are up to the job though. to light a spring, and the valve will float, then bam.
if you plan on changing all the hardware out later, id just get the cam, then the other things once you get the coin for them, then do the whole job at one shot. be alot better on ya to do it that way. this way your nat tearing into stuff 2-3-4 times.
i have a hughes 1418aln, springs, locks, and retainers ill let go for a total of 500.oo plus shipping.
you will need those roller rockers to clear the new springs though. so price that with a new set of rockers...looks like 304.oo at mancini for the adjustables (SHP-S70036A). not a bad amount IMO.
pretty pricey for one step about stock imo.
with any cam change though, you want to be certain that the springs are up to the job though. to light a spring, and the valve will float, then bam.
if you plan on changing all the hardware out later, id just get the cam, then the other things once you get the coin for them, then do the whole job at one shot. be alot better on ya to do it that way. this way your nat tearing into stuff 2-3-4 times.
i have a hughes 1418aln, springs, locks, and retainers ill let go for a total of 500.oo plus shipping.
you will need those roller rockers to clear the new springs though. so price that with a new set of rockers...looks like 304.oo at mancini for the adjustables (SHP-S70036A). not a bad amount IMO.
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yup
Are you still selling these parts?
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Hope you are doing the install yourself as the Mopar +10 cam isn't worth ever paying to have installed. It is far to mild an upgrade to make much difference.
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yeah, its on ebay... been trying to seel it all off to people on here first, and no one really showed too much of an interest. now its on ebay.
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how much you getting it for? even if its 85.oo, that mopar rt and the rt+10 cam is a waste of money. dont really do much. i had one in my ram, and didnt notice a damn thing.
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22 on jan 29th! Would be a cool birthday present to have my truck running by then, but I'm not holding my breath!!
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Give the guy a break:huh: Will the RT+10, make the most power? No. But it will work well with a basically stock setup and minor mods. Also, it will not affect drivability like a more radical cam. I have a mild cam 212/218 and I wouldn't consider it daily driver material .... screws with the computer too much...
Slick, make sure to get 1.7RR with that cam .... it will make a big difference!
Slick, make sure to get 1.7RR with that cam .... it will make a big difference!
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I loved the cam, has a great sound, with 1.7 rockers I bet he will gain a good amount of power. I think he will be happy.
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we are just simply tring to tell the guy, that for the money, there are better ones out there to get. goes thert cam work well, only thing i can say is not really. all be it i had it in a heavier truck (did have a 2200 stall conv. though). didnt notice much. haad the stock rockers though too. so maybe the 1.7's would help a little. me personally, id rather see him get something else. mopar wants way too much for thier cams. thats all i was getting at. and the whole package i have for sale on ebay, he will be that much happier with it. all thats needed is a hp computer. not like he's going to need a fast, or sct tune or something completely custom.
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6,587 Posts
pushrods id wait on untill you get the rr's you want. they come with them. id get new lifters to go with the cam, just to be on the safe side. the converter, id get a towing one (HD type),,,1600-1800 stall. that cam isnt much bigger than stock. and the slight taller stall on the converter will help out your milage too. also upgrade your trans a bit while its out. shift kit, deep pan, and a trans cooler. you wanna go a little more in depth with the trans, you can upgrade the bands and some other internals to give it a longer life, and it will help out your milage a bit too.
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999 Posts
He Might have needed custom tuning with a more radical cam. Like I said, my 212/218 114lsa cam screws with the computer Big Time. Some PCMs just don't do well with the low vacuum signals. I had a BG flash, a Tom Fox flash, and now a SCT and none have made it run right at cruise. Don't get me wrong .... I am happy with my cam, it runs like a scalded dog at WOT, but if it were a daily driver i might go with rt+10 as well!!!
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