Dakota Durango Forum banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

rebelfootball

· Registered
Joined
·
267 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have been having this problem for a while, and I am finally going to try and fix it. It all started this summer when I got a trailer for my truck. It is a Leonard 6' 4'' by 10'. I usually haul 2 fourwheelers on the trailer, and maybe one in the bed (all pretty light sport bikes). The problem is the truck overheats like crazy when I am pulling the trailer, even when it is empty. It gets hot especially when I am pulling hills, either on the interstate or on a regular 2 lane road, since it usually has to go WOT to keep speed going uphill. It also gets hot as hell sometimes when I am sitting in traffic on hot days at school. I wasn't paying attention one day, and it got so hot that the check gauges light came on. I have looked under the hood while the truck was running, hot, and with the A/C on, and the e fan was not moving. I am guessing that is the culprit. I don't know jack about this part of the truck, so I wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to check or anything. Could it be a bad thermostat maybe? or just a bad e fan, which I am guessing isn't cheap. Thanks
 
Bad fuse, or even the relay in the PDC underhood, Also try this, when mine went out it wouldnt come on on its own, i had to to do this, spin the fan by hand when its suposed to be running, then it would start, this was easy for me cause i didnt have a clutch fan on mine, i yanked the efan out and went with a black magic 180 and havent looked back.
 
Suggest running the engine with the A/C on and check for voltage and ground at the motor. If there is, then the motor has failed. If not, as mentioned, check the fuse and also see if the relay is working. A quick check for the relay is to "borrow" one from another spot in the panel (swap the two relays), if the fan now works and the other relay item doesn't, well, self explanatory. A less likely cause would be the wiring.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the help guys, I will check that that out tommorow once I go home for the weekend and have a place to work on it. I still have the mech. fan, so I can't really spin the fan manually, cuz I would probably get my hand chopped off. What all is involved in hooking up and mounting an aftermarket fan?
 
If you're moving, you shouldn't need the aux fan to keep it cool....sounds like you need to do a coolant flush and new t-stat.

Could also be the fan clutch going bad, you should hear it lock up and roar like mad when it gets real hot.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Hmm, some more good ideas. And I do not hear any roaring when it gets real hot, but I usually don't hear much under the hood, with the K&N and my exhaust. This may sound really dumb, but where is the thermostat?
 
The t-stat is under the housing where the upper radiator hose attaches to the intake manifold. Didn't realize you had a mechanical fan also. The engine shouldn't get too hot even if the aux fan doesn't work. To check your fan clutch, get the engine good and hot, shut it off and see how much resistance there is when trying to spin the fan blade by hand. If it just freewheels, clutch is bad. It should take some force to turn, even when cold. Guess I should have read your post a little closer! On the interstate, or any other time your over like 25 mph or so, the fan isn't needed anyways. So, t-stat, make sure the radiator and condensor fins aren't plugged with dirt, and that your radiator is full to the top when cold. Don't go by the reservoir level, check in the radiator itself. If it's excessivley low, it could send air through the system, which results in hot spots and steam that will cause it to get hot. I still think however that the aux fan should run when the A/C is on and sitting in traffic.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rebelfootball
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thanks a lot man, I'm going to take a look at all that tommorow. Hopefully I can get this figured out, because I am tired of having to watch my temp gauge every time I am sitting in traffic or pulling my trailer. Thanks again!
 
The t-stat is under the housing where the upper radiator hose attaches to the intake manifold...
*buzzer* He's got a 4.7, that information is generally correct, but not for the 4.7.

4.7 has a dry intake and the t-stat is in the timing cover at the lower rad hose. Its very easy to change, but be gentle with the bolts holding the rad hose nipple to the timing cover, a few have broken them off and that can be a nightmare.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
*buzzer* He's got a 4.7, that information is generally correct, but not for the 4.7.

4.7 has a dry intake and the t-stat is in the timing cover at the lower rad hose. Its very easy to change, but be gentle with the bolts holding the rad hose nipple to the timing cover, a few have broken them off and that can be a nightmare.
Thanks man. I'll give it a look today. I will probably pick up a new t stat anyways, as I hear of several people saying that they put in a 180* one.
 
I have been having this problem for a while, and I am finally going to try and fix it. It all started this summer when I got a trailer for my truck. It is a Leonard 6' 4'' by 10'. I usually haul 2 fourwheelers on the trailer, and maybe one in the bed (all pretty light sport bikes). The problem is the truck overheats like crazy when I am pulling the trailer, even when it is empty. It gets hot especially when I am pulling hills, either on the interstate or on a regular 2 lane road, since it usually has to go WOT to keep speed going uphill. It also gets hot as hell sometimes when I am sitting in traffic on hot days at school. I wasn't paying attention one day, and it got so hot that the check gauges light came on. I have looked under the hood while the truck was running, hot, and with the A/C on, and the e fan was not moving. I am guessing that is the culprit. I don't know jack about this part of the truck, so I wondering if anyone had any suggestions on what to check or anything. Could it be a bad thermostat maybe? or just a bad e fan, which I am guessing isn't cheap. Thanks
if the electric fan doesn't work with the a/c on, then the problem is probably somewhere in the fan circuit or the fan itself.

Description and Operation

DESCRIPTION
The radiator cooling fan relay is a 5-pin, solenoid type, mini-relay. It is located in the Power Distribution Center (PDC) . Refer to label on PDC cover for relay location.

OPERATION
The electric radiator cooling fan is controlled by the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) through the radiator cooling fan relay. The PCM will activate the relay after receiving inputs from the engine coolant temperature sensor and/or an air conditioning on/off signal.
Not Equipped With A/C: The relay is energized when coolant temperature is above approximately 103°C (217°F) . It will then de-energize when coolant temperature drops to approximately 98°C (208°F) .
Equipped With A/C: In addition to using coolant temperatures to control cooling fan operation, the cooling fan will also be engaged when the air conditioning system has been activated.
 
  • Like
Reactions: rebelfootball
let us know how it turns out.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Good news. I just got back from class, and I had a few minutes so I thought I would check a few of the possible problems. The good news is that i got the e fan working now. I took the relay from the wipers and put it in the rad fan spot, turned the a/c on with the truck running and the fan fired right up. This is a good thing, now all I gotta do is go pick up a new relay tonight. Are they available at Advanced Auto or Auto Zone, or a dealership only thing? The bad news is that I think the mech. fan clutch may be out. When I got back my temp was right at 210, so I shut the truck off and popped the hood, and the fan will spin freely. It will even continue some after you stop pushing on it. I'm guessing it's supposed to resist turning a little more than that. Any one know how much one costs, or how hard it is to put on? Also, should I go ahead and get 180* thermostat while I'm at it? Couldn't hurt anything right? Sorry for all the questions, I'm just trying to make sure I got everything covered.
Justin
 
It's good that you got your e fan working. I have the same problem still after buying a new relay. FYI you might have a spare relay in your fuse block inside the truck. I found mine after spending $15 at the dealership.

And no, your mech fan shouldn't spin free. It should be pretty stiff. The function of the clutch, if I'm correct, is to release the fan from spinning when the motor is at or above a certain RPM since there should be sufficient air flow through the radiator from driving. You can pick one up at Autozone or Oreilly's for, I think, around 40-50 bucks.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
I never even thought to look for a spare anywhere, I picked one up for a little less than $9 at the local parts store. Good luck getting yours to work, hopefully it won't be too much trouble. I priced the fan clutch at Adavanced Auto yesterday and it was like $55, so I'm going to pick one of those up sometime soon.
 
Maybe check junk yards for a fan clutch. Seems that anytime you buy a new one from the store, they are super ass stiff and roar like hell a LOT. Surely you could snatch one from a yard for real cheap and it would be 'broke in already.

Just leave that whole abomination off in the winter anyway, helps warm up faster. Not to mention less noise, better MPG etc.

I haven't had mine on for a couple years anyway, year round. I do have an aftermarket fan control for the stock e-fan though.
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
The junkyard thing is a good idea, but the problem is that I don't know where any junkyards with a dak is. The one junkyard I went to didn't have shit, and was pretty pricey for what my g/f was needing for her car. I will check in the phone book and see if there are any near where I am living now. I have always thought about taking it off, but I was always afraid it would overheat sitting in traffic or while I was towing on a hot day, maybe I was wrong?
 
Just leave that whole abomination off in the winter anyway, helps warm up faster. Not to mention less noise, better MPG etc.

I haven't had mine on for a couple years anyway, year round. I do have an aftermarket fan control for the stock e-fan though.
Super old post, but the search brought it up. does you engine stay pretty cool with that setup and how hard was it to due to the stock e-fan. did you remove the existing shroud when you removed the clutch fan?
 
Super old post, but the search brought it up. does you engine stay pretty cool with that setup and how hard was it to due to the stock e-fan. did you remove the existing shroud when you removed the clutch fan?
Yes you have to remove the shroud to get the clutch fan off anyhow so you won't need to put it back on unless you really want to :huh:
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts