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sick 660r

· 6.9 6 speed
Joined
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4,711 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
Im starting to think I have a cracked head and I was wondering if someone could give me some info or symptoms of cracked heads and how to check besides taking them off?

All info greatly appreciated.
 
just takin them off you may not be able to see the crack, even havin them cleaned, unless you have them flux checked, if there stockers and over 40k then you prob do have a crack, i just got threw a situation about my heads bein cracked, best choice to replace, new hd heads or eddies, never worry bout another crack, and if there is a crack its more then likely gonna be on a exhaust port.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
This is my last post from this thread http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=35794

"Heres and update

Found a scanner and the fuel sync was at 0, which is where its supposed to be. Since I heard that its best at +4, I set it there and it made no difference. We then used the scanner to find the degree of timing when it detonates/pings and it was at 18 degrees which is actually kinda low so its not to much timing.

We talked for about an hour and we couldent figure out what it was, but he did ask if I was buring coolant and at the time I didnt think so. When I got how I decided to check for the hell of it and it was VERY low. So, im thinking its a cracked head which is allowing me to burn coolant which is causing me to detonate/ping.

What are some symptoms of a cracked head? Would a compression check tell me if I have cracked heads? Also is there any way to tell if im buring coolant by looking at the spark plugs? And yes I am still using the stock heads."


To sum it up I detonate over 3200 rpms which is when my truck is under load because of my 3200 stall TC. I have done EVERY thing to figure out what is wrong and this is all I have left.
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
What is your truck doing? A cracked head could cause you to lose coolant and overheat. As mentioned the only way to know for sure is to have them magnafluxed.
I did lose alot of coolant and it has seem to be running a little warm and it raises temp very quickly.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
well its not the gasket because I blew the gasket once because of the detonation (possibly from a cracked head) and I replaced the gasket but never looked at the heads. I blew the gasket between cylinder 3 and 5 and it never got into the coolant passaiges (cant spell). Thought it was because I used the stock head bolts but im pretty sure it was from detonation. The detonation was still there when I got eveything back together.

Is there any way to tell by the plugs if im burning coolant?
 
well its not the gasket because I blew the gasket once because of the detonation (possibly from a cracked head) and I replaced the gasket but never looked at the heads. I blew the gasket between cylinder 3 and 5 and it never got into the coolant passaiges (cant spell). Thought it was because I used the stock head bolts but im pretty sure it was from detonation. The detonation was still there when I got eveything back together.

Is there any way to tell by the plugs if im burning coolant?
I believe that if you're burning coolant the porcelain on the plugs should be white. Are you getting white smoke?
 
well its not the gasket because I blew the gasket once because of the detonation (possibly from a cracked head) and I replaced the gasket but never looked at the heads. I blew the gasket between cylinder 3 and 5 and it never got into the coolant passaiges (cant spell). Thought it was because I used the stock head bolts but im pretty sure it was from detonation. The detonation was still there when I got eveything back together.

Is there any way to tell by the plugs if im burning coolant?
Does it bog and backfire at 3200 rpm?

Do a presure test for the cooling system. If there is a problem, it should loose presure.
 
Discussion starter · #13 ·
I believe that if you're burning coolant the porcelain on the plugs should be white. Are you getting white smoke?
Last time I checked there was a little bit of white chalk/dust on the entire spark plug (atleast whats in the combustion chamber). I get a little white somke when I get into it.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Does it bog and backfire at 3200 rpm?

Do a presure test for the cooling system. If there is a problem, it should loose presure.
No it runs strong but it detonates.

How do you do a pressure test for the cooling system?
 
Discussion starter · #16 · (Edited)
It's like a pump that goes on your coolant hose in place of the cap. You pump it up to a certain psi and see if it holds pressure.:wave:
Ill get one and give it a try.

Now since everything seems to be leading to a cracked head, which heads should I go with? HD, r/t, eddies...? I was thinking about going with the eddies. I will be going with unported ones because I dont feel like blowing the bottom end. I will also be restricting the boost probably to arund 8-10psi because once I get the longtubes, 58mm tb, and what ever heads I get on, ill probably be pushing the block to the limit. Ill be using these heads when I decide to build my motor so I am ultimatly looking at future performance (ported). What do you guys think?
 
Discussion starter · #18 ·
if ya have the money a set of eddies, if not a set of HDs, i wouldnt think of the r/t's since the hd heads flow better. while your that far why not a better cam?
I wish I could do a cam but im pretty sure the bottom end would go. I was making close to 500 is not more when it was running good with 13-14 psi with stock heads, tb, and exhaust. Now ill be putting the long tubes on, 58mm tb, and a set of heads.
 
I'd get any heads you decide to get looked over by a machine shop. At the minimum check the guides on the eddies and get a good valve job. The guides are known to be tight from the factory and the valve jobs aren't exactly stellar either usually. I would seriously think about porting now if you can swing it.
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
I'd get any heads you decide to get looked over by a machine shop. At the minimum check the guides on the eddies and get a good valve job. The guides are known to be tight from the factory and the valve jobs aren't exactly stellar either usually. I would seriously think about porting now if you can swing it.
I know the bottom end wont be able to handle ported heads with the blower. I can do it money wise but then I wouldent be able to get tires for the 20's. How much would it cost to get the guides checked and a valve job. Also can the eddies handle a 6k redline?
 
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