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krweby said:
I think the 44044's that I'm running are 6 or 7 leaf.
Oh it's all in the engineering of the spring, not just the leaf count. Thickness of leaf etc. I could crunch the numbers and get a close ballpark of what your looking at. Being I've been Mr. Leaf spring for to long now.
 
NorCal_Dakota said:
The packs are thick, but they are meant to be on the ass end of a 4runner which a a light truck. I think I will be able to run them like they are and be happy with the spring rate. I ran the 44044s before on my XJ and loved how they flexed, but I needed to be a little taller then my XJ sat which is why I went with these.
That's cool, I just like to see what spring rates worked for which trucks. Calculating with Leaf Springs is sketchy as it is.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
studlybilly said:
That's cool, I just like to see what spring rates worked for which trucks. Calculating with Leaf Springs is sketchy as it is.

what do you need to caculate it, I would be interested to find out what it will end up being. I can get the specs from all-pros websit I bet.

Kevin
 
NorCal_Dakota said:
what do you need to caculate it, I would be interested to find out what it will end up being. I can get the specs from all-pros websit I bet.

Kevin
It's mainly pertaining to your vehicle, Measure the thickness of the main leaf (should be 5/16s-3/8s) and while supporting the truck the length from eyelet to eyelet of bushing(s), and it's obvious the width is probably 2-1/2"s.
 
NorCal_Dakota said:
I also made some slider and photoshopped my plans for the bed...will have more pics soon, hopefully of the truck on jack stands
NorCal, question about your rock sliders. How did you tie it to the frame? Weld or bolts. I'm looking to get some made (or attempt myself) for my QC. But I want them to be strong enough to not only provide a protection but also provide a lifting point for a high lift jack should I need to use it in the trail. Thanks.
 
YellowKota2k said:
Be advised that in order to use them for a Hi-Lift point they need to stick out more than you'll want them to. I figured it out the hard way and put a nice little line all the way down my door.
Didn't think of that.......

I guess having them tucked in nice like I would want them wouldn't serve me well for a hi-lift after all.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
my sliders are welded to the frame in 4 points, I think I am going to add a 5th point though when I do the hoop over the back of the cab since it will be tied into the sliders.

Mine stick out 17 inches from the frame I think, just enough so I can use a highlift.

Kevin
 
Thanks NorCal and YellowKota. You've given me something to think about. I think I may make a mock up out of wood and set it in place with jack stands. I could get an idea of how far out they would have to be for hi-lift purposes and see if I can achieve the right balance to see if it could maybe work like I envision.
 
NorCal_Dakota said:
with my spring width (31.5 center pin to center pin) my perches dont fall on the mounts for the radius arms. When I said cut off old mounts I mean the perches that were already on there. Leafs were already run on this axle. They are to wide for my app and meant to also eliminate the ubolts which I didnt want

axle tube is 3.5in diamiter where they fall so I will have no problem with the ubolts either. I am making my own perches and am familer with welding on cast so I am not worried.

I will have some new pics tonight, got the housing cleaned and primered today
I'd love to see picture of the leaves on this axle...
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Mr.N said:
I'd love to see picture of the leaves on this axle...

give me a month, should have pics of the perches I am making before then. The mounts that came on the axle were 35" center pin to center pin which puts the perches right on top of the cast radius mount. Since the previous owner couldnt fit a ubolt around them the perches were made like a u-bolt eliminator kit (like people run on yotas) where bolts hold the springs to the perches.

I like the security of ubolts which is why I just didnt move his perches over. Since I am runing a a smaller spring width I will not have this problem.

Kevin
 
NorCal_Dakota said:
give me a month, should have pics of the perches I am making before then. The mounts that came on the axle were 35" center pin to center pin which puts the perches right on top of the cast radius mount.
Best of Luck Kevin, but I think for $100 core housing you could be avoiding this problem.

Props for the SAS, I can't wait until I get to do that!
 
Luckey said:
Can you explain in more depth the " $100 core housing". What is it and what does it include? Thanks
He has a good axle, with disk and such.

If he went to a junk yard and found an axle with lots or parts removed from the knuckles out he could then get that housing for about $100. Pic of housing below. Housing years he could swap, 1/2 ton Ford 1971-1977

The 78 & 79 years are not a good axle, only because of the housing is junk if not used for the stock coils. Go hit Google, yahoo or dogpile and seach on "Dana 44" and check out a few links, there is one I like that has good info on which housing to find and why.

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I run a 79 3/4 f250 hp Dana 44 up front.
 
Discussion starter · #37 · (Edited)
*UPDATE*

I had been lagging on starting my swap so I put some dynamat in the cab and mounted my CB in the dash, I still need to finish up the panel but you can see what I am shooting for...

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I also got a chance to finally start cutting on the truck today, only had few hours but made decient progress...I need to finish figuring out where the shackle mounts will go and finish cutting the brackets and clean up the frame...enjoy

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Did you get anyone over to help you out? I saw your post over on Pirate.
 
Discussion starter · #40 ·
krweby said:
Did you get anyone over to help you out? I saw your post over on Pirate.
I ended up having to work on easter so that never worked out...I am just working on it myself, might teach the GF to use the grinder though cause I really dont want to clean up those frame rails...
 
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