Dakota Durango Forum banner
1 - 14 of 14 Posts
The computer will adjust for it. I did mine myself and had no problems.

If your gonna take out the butterfly valves and the center shaft you need to be carefull. The screws that hold in the vlaves are mushroomed, you need to grind down the bottom of the screw and then slowly work it back and forth so you don't break it getting it out.
 
just use locktight on bolts and youll be o.k. :biggthump
 
[QUOTE='01QUAD]Thanks! I have it all apart, already started porting, if the computer will adjust then I don't have to worry about getting a fuel pressure regulator. Should I replace the screws before reassembly?[/QUOTE]

Did you grind off the ends of the screws?? If not your shaft is gonna be jacked up and you're going to need to drill, tap, and use new screws, almost made that mistake. While I had mine all apart I half-shafted it, and used locktight.
 
'01QUAD, you are doing just fine. You don't have to worry about a fuel regulator or anything else. If you didn't grind off the screws before you removed them do it now by removing about an 1/8 of inch and file a slight chamfer on the end. This will remove most of the bad thread and help start the screw easier. Most likely the threads in the shaft will be ok unless you had a real hard time taking them out. If you have access to a 4Mx.7 tap you can chase the threads. If the threads are bad you will have drill ream the holes and go with a 8-32 button head screw. I've done a lot of them and never found that it was necessary.

Now that you have it apart, how do you plan on porting it?
 
Air hat

I plan on getting a 52mm fast man TB. I took off the vent tube that attaches on the front of the stock air box, on my 2001 RT and put a K&N in there. If I get a bigger air hat can I get a bigger tube somewhere that will go from the air hat to the stock box??? This will flow a lot of air nicely and save me some $ for my exhaust work.
 
do i have to take the butterflys out to port it? im going to use a 2inch flapper wheel.

thanks!
kevin
 
Make sure the blades are as big as the holes at all times. Make sure when you port it, when the blades are closed they are still tightly closed inside with no spaces around them.

When you port it, make sure you stay straight because the TB is aluminum and you can mess it up.
 
durango- im not sure what you mean, i think u want me to make sure the butterflys are completely closed when i port it. Is that all or am i missing somethin? What part of queens are u from?

Oh yea and what part of the factory airbox quiets the motor down? I want to hear the thing when i tromp on it!

Thanks
Kevin
 
SCD318 said:
do i have to take the butterflys out to port it? im going to use a 2inch flapper wheel.

thanks!
kevin
I suppose it might be possible, but it would be a bit more difficult. You would likely keep hitting the top of the throttle shaft at best.
 
SCD318 said:
durango- im not sure what you mean, i think u want me to make sure the butterflys are completely closed when i port it. Is that all or am i missing somethin? What part of queens are u from?

Oh yea and what part of the factory airbox quiets the motor down? I want to hear the thing when i tromp on it!

Thanks
Kevin
I'm in north queens. Whitestone area... You?

If you take the butterflys out and have just the stripped TB, use teh flapper wheel, but keep it staright. Like, the diamater edge of the flapper where is parallel to the top of the TB, so you get a nice clean bore.
 
im in rockaway queens but im back in florida for school now. :banana2:

im gonna give the TB a shot ill post pics when im done :biggthump

Kevin
 
1 - 14 of 14 Posts