So I just purchased 218 cams for my 4.7 v8.. Will I need lash caps or not? And if so, where would be a good place to get them?
218 Cam Install
bballbrownie34
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Well crap... Guess I'll be takin that off sometime... And putting a new seal on. Lol
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Also, I didn't put any oil on the dampner before I installed. That probably hurt it didn't it ?
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It probably didn't help.
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Ok here are the two photos. The blackest part is the dampner. It seems like its coming right from that seal. It NEVER leaked before!
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It's definitely leaking, but I am 100% sure it didn't cause mine to leak when I had it installed, and there was no damage to the shaft. I would replace the seal with an oem one but this time clean inspect and lube. Make sure you don't over or under torque it. If it still leaks let me know.
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Yea I believe you. Not saying you sold me a piece of crap, performance is awesome! :drive: I just wanted you guys to see for yourselves and what you thought it would be. :huh:
I'll order a new seal and go from there. When you replaced yours, did you use oil to lube it or something like silicone? And did you just hit it on with a socket?
I'll order a new seal and go from there. When you replaced yours, did you use oil to lube it or something like silicone? And did you just hit it on with a socket?
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The mopar seal has a rtv type sealant on the OD of it, and I put a light coat of oil on the inside of the seal, crankshaft, and damper. If you can get a seal puller it will make it much easier to remove. As for installing it I just used a big socket.
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I totally forgot about that.
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He actually has my old ASP that I removed when I bought the ATI.
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Wow wasn't aware of that. So the asp has a history of breaking the woodruff key on the crankshaft?
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back when they first designed them was a flaw that kept the hub from seating against the sprocket flush, and would cause the woodruff key to break then valves hit pistons and goodbye engine, I heard it from airram said they denied it at first that it was there problem, but was corrected, but when I researched about the ati damper seem like a lot higher quality part and considering my engine has seen 7K rpms and it has 180K miles and still running, its got to be a descent performance part
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The reason I upgraded was bc I expected it to be designed like the ATI, but I was wrong. It still did the job of under driving but they simply took a stock size damper and bolted a 25% UD pulley to it. Luckily I bought it used so I wasn't out full retail price. 7k rpm? Hell I get nervous when I get a hair past 6k lol.
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Lol, mine has a 5300 redline and rev limiter.
Not sure why you'd be scared to turn an HO 7k.
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I don't have an HO, my internal engine is stock except for the HO cams. The only thing that worries me is valve float, if I had better springs and a built bottom end I'd run it balls to the wall all the time. I removed the rev limiter so I can push it but just not sure how far I can go.
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I put my ATI in the oven at about 250ish for 20-30 min. and it slid right on with a slight tap of my dead blow hammer! Piece of cake.
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Exactly how I did mine.I put my ATI in the oven at about 250ish for 20-30 min. and it slid right on with a slight tap of my dead blow hammer! Piece of cake.
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Ive heard of that method before, but heating something up that i paid 450 brand new for just ddoesn't sound like a good idea to me also id prob get burned hands in the process, as fkr turning a 4.7 to 7k it didnt like it very much sometimes would float valves and not hit limiter, but with the h.o. cams it loved shifting at around 6800, would climb to 6500 so quickly in 1st gear would cause me to short shift or miss 2nd which is slowing down my times at the track, but my street tune is back at 6k now for burnouts on backroad purposes lolI put my ATI in the oven at about 250ish for 20-30 min. and it slid right on with a slight tap of my dead blow hammer! Piece of cake.
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