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another fallen rocker

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zzcustom

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Just bought a 01 4.7 Durango w/170k. Guy says rocker fell of and didn't want it any more. Maybe he knew there was more to it,but how can I tell.
My question is,what are the steps I should follow to diagnose and to repair the problem. When I bought it,drivers side valve cover was removed as was the brake booster. The second to last set of valves was the issue,but guy said he popped the rocker back in. I can wiggle the rocker and get a little play but the same on a couple of others as well. I reassembled the cover and started it up and it ran. Made some rattling noise from the other cover and idled a little lopey then will eventually stall. I don't want to run it too long as to damage anything else. Oil level was a bit overfilled as well.
Knowing other is noise on the other side makes me fell the same problem may exist on that side too. I will soon be taking it apart to see what I find. Inthe mean time iI have been reading up on possible problems and fixes I may encounter. I priced lifters and bought the Miller tool needed.

What should I check once everything is opened up? Compression? Lifter test?can a rocker go bad???how to check spring pressure? Check for bent valves?
Basically looking for a systematic approach to this valve train diagnosis?

Any good mechanics willing to give me a detailed rundown on this?

Thanks for reading and for any advise on diagnosis with this!
01 Durango 4.7

Z
 
#2 ·
My bet is that you have a cloged lash adjuster or the oil is restricted some place in the system.

You may be able to do a flush... reset the follower drain the oil, install NEW FILTER and run some flush through the engine at idle... after that, Drain the flush, insall NEW FILTER and run some regular oil through the engine to clean the flush out... Drive that around the block... then drain that, Install a NEW FILTER and use full synthetic from then on. The synthetic will constantly clean and this is a good thing.

This calls for 2 cheap ass filters and one final good filter
OIL SYSTEM FLUSH
DINO OIL
SYNTHETIC OIL - I like to use MOBIL 1

Its good to do this after 100,000 miles just to give the engine a good cleaning anyway.

Keep us posted.

SPEED SAFE, NICK


This is the cheapest first step... The good thing is you will know its CLEAN and can eliminate clogged lash adjusters.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Thanks

Started it up andit would hardly run. Then I ran a compression testand number 7 cylinder was 0! So I assume the damage was done.cylinders 5 and 8 had 50 and 60 psi.respectively. Put oil in them,ran the test again and pressure went up.Rings?
Looks like time for a donor engine?
Found a good 2k Durango w/175k for 850$......looking around CL and eBay,ccan't find an engine for under 1200$
So I pull the engine and take the remains to the boneyard and recupe some of my 850 in scrap weight. 4,600 lbs@9.50$ per 100 lbs=430$+ cat,battery and aluminum wheels= another 130$......560$-850$= 300 for that high milage engine... So that's my plan unless there something else I can do/fix.
Zaren
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
OK ,let's go thru the rebuild idea.....I'm very mechanically inclined,but never done an engine rebuild. What's this gonna cost me? I'm in it to make a buck,so if its not cost effective,its not a great idea. I own and drive an 01 Durango 4.7 and love it! 140k and runs like a raped ape! Perhaps I can build one engine for my personal use and put my 140k into the truck I want to sell?
Anyhow,what's it cost to build a decent engine?
 
#9 ·
zzcustom said:
OK ,let's go thru the rebuild idea.....I'm very mechanically inclined,but never done an engine rebuild. What's this gonna cost me? I'm in it to make a buck,so if its not cost effective,its not a great idea. I own and drive an 01 Durango 4.7 and love it! 140k and runs like a raped ape! Perhaps I can build one engine for my personal use and put my 140k into the truck I want to sell?
Anyhow,what's it cost to build a decent engine?
Click to expand...
This might help a little. At least give you an idea.

http://www.airram.com/product.php?categoryid=829&productid=1535
 
#11 ·
Craigslue said:
I have a question on your 4.7 race prepped ported heads with the Comp Cam springs. Which springs, 26113 or 26125 do the come with?
Click to expand...
They come with the Beehive Valve Springs - COMP CAMS
PART #26113-16

The high load springs are mainly used for high boosted applications where boost pressure can over ride the spring pressure... NA you dont need that much seat pressure.

I hope this helps.

SPEED SAFE, AIR RAM
 
#12 ·
If you chose to rebuild you will have a better piece of mind knowing it was done right and for the most part, it would be a brand new engine.

You will have the opportunity to choose the Compression Ratio (CR) and bore: We highly recommend going with the 10:1cr HO pistons with a .040 overbore.

I would take the time to have the Rotating assembly balanced as well as the block cleaned real well and aligned honed.

These are things that you will not get from buying your engine used in a very unknown condition. By building your engine, you will know EXACTLY what’s in it and EXACTLY the condition of each part (NEW) for about the same cost as an overpriced used engine from the bone yard.

Adding a 2011 intake, Ported heads, HO cams and a 70MM throttle body to the above 10:1 .040 over 4.7L will make for a night and day engine compaired to what your driving now.

If you have any question or concerns please feel free to contact me.

SPEED SAFE, NICK
 
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zzcustom
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