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Suspension Lift?

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#23 ·
hutichison321 said:
Still, no one has built up the dana 35/205mm in the front of the dak/durs
the jeep liberty guys take out the aluminum and build up the steel d30's to take a fair amt of abuse and the tacoma guys do the same with their clamshell diff's and junk.
I just wheeled with some built IFS tacoma guys on 37's that were kicking my ass, all with very little $$ into their front ends.

I still have yet to see anyone custom build up an IFS dakota/dur... I think it would be cool and way less $$/difficulty then an SAS.
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Are you talking about replacing the diff with something more stout, but keeping the IFS setup? Similar to what Randy Ellis Design did for the Ultimate F150? Or are you talking about beefing up the original IFS diff used in the Dakota?

I don't know shit, but it seems that replacing the stock diff with something more stout, and stuffing it into the stock location seems doable. Not as extreme as the F150 but similar.....
 
#24 ·
00Durango. said:
i think my goal would be another 8-12" maybe down the road, bigger tires. like ive said, i want to go 4:56. and weekend poundage offroading. and yes, a 5.9 cummins
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You can get a Tuff Country 5.5 or 7 inch lift they sale for about 1400.00 and average about 12 hours install then you can do a 2 inch body but keep in mind you will only be able to run 33 inch tires.

If you look at your rear diff see it your 10 bolt or 12 a 10 bolt is 8.25 (recommend tire size 32) if your 12 bolt 9.25 (recommend tire size 35)
The issue comes with the front stock diff can only handle 33 with out stressing the axles.

here are couple of pics of my rig with a tuff country 5.5 lift.

Image


Image
 
#25 ·
That's a nice looking rig you got there.
 
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#26 ·
jack Buaer said:
You can get a Tuff Country 5.5 or 7 inch lift they sale for about 1400.00 and average about 12 hours install then you can do a 2 inch body but keep in mind you will only be able to run 33 inch tires.

If you look at your rear diff see it your 10 bolt or 12 a 10 bolt is 8.25 (recommend tire size 32) if your 12 bolt 9.25 (recommend tire size 35)
The issue comes with the front stock diff can only handle 33 with out stressing the axles.

here are couple of pics of my rig with a tuff country 5.5 lift.

Image


Image
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Must be nice having a 99. :( I hate the fact I can't lift mine higher than it is

Great looking truck btw
 
#27 ·
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Discussion starter · #28 ·
jack Buaer said:
You can get a Tuff Country 5.5 or 7 inch lift they sale for about 1400.00 and average about 12 hours install then you can do a 2 inch body but keep in mind you will only be able to run 33 inch tires.

QUOTE]

no i cant, im an 00. i wanted to :(
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#29 ·
Sad face after 179k miles the transmission is giving out, its in the shop getting rebuilt adding an upgraded overdrive and level 5 gears to it. Cost is about 2200.00.
Hope to have it back by Wednesday for a trip up to Grants Pass OR.

also need opinion I took my rig out wheeling in Nevada last week Washoe to Carson City in the open country (Video on Youtube search Durango 5.5 washoe)
I rubbed a little in the rear wheel well, now at first i though about adding body lift +3inches but reconsidered to adding Leaf spring load supports and an Airboot support to stiffen the ride in the rear. Opinions?
 
#30 ·
was also wandering if someone could address the same question as "19Dak98"....aside from a different bolt pattern, why wouldn't it be possible to keep the rear 8.25 stock axle and just throw the rest of the money you would've spent on the 9" rear build into building the front d44 more beefy? is it a strength issue, cuz ive seen people with t.c. lift kit running 37's and 36's on the stock rear axle.... couldn't you just run the same wheel, except with a different bolt pattern? from what i understand the d44 is the same width anyway as the stock rear...or at least the model im using "1978 bronco axle"....anyone have any input...."pros and cons on the matter"? was just wandering as it would be less work, i don't think i've read a build thread on here that went this route...i think all have swapped both, front and rear axles....anyone?
 
#31 ·
a97dakota said:
was also wandering if someone could address the same question as "19Dak98"....aside from a different bolt pattern, why wouldn't it be possible to keep the rear 8.25 stock axle and just throw the rest of the money you would've spent on the 9" rear build into building the front d44 more beefy? is it a strength issue, cuz ive seen people with t.c. lift kit running 37's and 36's on the stock rear axle.... couldn't you just run the same wheel, except with a different bolt pattern? from what i understand the d44 is the same width anyway as the stock rear...or at least the model im using "1978 bronco axle"....anyone have any input...."pros and cons on the matter"? was just wandering as it would be less work, i don't think i've read a build thread on here that went this route...i think all have swapped both, front and rear axles....anyone?
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Widths, 4-5" difference on rear and 5-6" front, can't remember exact fullsize are widdder than dakots. My 88 Dakota im building is using 79 ferd 1/2 ton axles- D44 front and matched 9" rear easy radius arm set up, came out of a 4speed truck with 4:10s and rear locker got on craigslist for 250$, Ill Have Less Than 1000 dollars in the whole truck/build thanks to spare parts and craigslist lol.
 
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#32 ·
jack Buaer said:
Sad face after 179k miles the transmission is giving out, its in the shop getting rebuilt adding an upgraded overdrive and level 5 gears to it. Cost is about 2200.00.
Hope to have it back by Wednesday for a trip up to Grants Pass OR.

also need opinion I took my rig out wheeling in Nevada last week Washoe to Carson City in the open country (Video on Youtube search Durango 5.5 washoe)
I rubbed a little in the rear wheel well, now at first i though about adding body lift +3inches but reconsidered to adding Leaf spring load supports and an Airboot support to stiffen the ride in the rear. Opinions?
Click to expand...
Ok so I just got back from Grants Pass and after talking to a few 4wheeling buddies I found that adding a Hellwig will had an additional 1500#s support and the airbag will stop the leaf springs/ tires from going up in to the wheel well. I will have this installed this week before I haed to Pismo Beach for Memorial day weekend.
 
#37 ·
MonsterDak said:
Im gonna run a d44 and a 9" from a late 70s 150.. scored them for $150.
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How are you getting around the the lack of a tone ring for the speedo?
 
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#39 ·
Grab a tone ring out of a 8.8 rear axle. Also grab the sensor. install the tone ring in the 9", clearance the housing with a grinder, drill the housing, weld in a bung, insert speed sensor. The tone ring bolts right onto the 9'' carrier.

Here are some links for that....

http://www.explorerforum.com/forums/showthread.php?t=300588
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php/287-Rearend-question-help/page2
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php/4643-Swap-Ford-8.8-to-9/page2?
http://www.race-dezert.com/forum/showthread.php/4643-Swap-Ford-8.8-to-9
 
#40 ·
a97dakota said:
was also wandering if someone could address the same question as "19Dak98"....aside from a different bolt pattern, why wouldn't it be possible to keep the rear 8.25 stock axle and just throw the rest of the money you would've spent on the 9" rear build into building the front d44 more beefy? is it a strength issue, cuz ive seen people with t.c. lift kit running 37's and 36's on the stock rear axle.... couldn't you just run the same wheel, except with a different bolt pattern? from what i understand the d44 is the same width anyway as the stock rear...or at least the model im using "1978 bronco axle"....anyone have any input...."pros and cons on the matter"? was just wandering as it would be less work, i don't think i've read a build thread on here that went this route...i think all have swapped both, front and rear axles....anyone?
Click to expand...
You could if you want to carry to spares with you wherever you go. (One for the front and one for the rear) Space is an issue for me since I do a week or 2 week long trip into the back country but the main reason is why not just have the same pattern front and rear. I mean your doing all that work to do the solid axle swap so take it a step further and do it right. The rear is the easiest part of the swap.
 
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