I saw that in the stroker kit, the rods are still 6.123 rods. Could I just use the stock forged steel 6.123 rods, the custom pistons for the 318-390 stoker, and buy a cast 4.00" stroke crank for the 318 from jegs instead of buying the 1300 dollar kit. If I do it this way i save around 400 dollars without a sacrafice in quality. Still forged steel rods and maybe the cast crank isnt as good as a forged one but its plenty strong for the application i will be using it in. What do you guys think?
318 to 390 stroker
greendak97
21 - 40 of 205 Posts
Get your block and clean it up
measure hte deck height at all four corners before removing the pistons
should be the same- right it down so you can figure compression height
order your pistons for 0 deck or plan on decking the block to get 0 deck or +.010 out of block
remove the core plugs
bottom tap all the bolt holes- you can do this yourself
clean the oil gallies
hot tank if necessary
line bore not necessary
bore the block as little as possible
torque plate hone
assemble all four corners and double check block for being square and proper quench
have your crank cross drilled
prices vary widely
measure hte deck height at all four corners before removing the pistons
should be the same- right it down so you can figure compression height
order your pistons for 0 deck or plan on decking the block to get 0 deck or +.010 out of block
remove the core plugs
bottom tap all the bolt holes- you can do this yourself
clean the oil gallies
hot tank if necessary
line bore not necessary
bore the block as little as possible
torque plate hone
assemble all four corners and double check block for being square and proper quench
have your crank cross drilled
prices vary widely
Joined
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297 Posts
What do i need to do to the factory rods to restore them? Or should they be ok?
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1,384 Posts
shouldnt really need to do anything to them, just put new bearings in
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106 Posts
You dont need super high end parts for this build. There are affordable forged cranks, rods, and pistons out there that are of the quality needed for your build. Take a look at Eagle and K1 for your crank and rods they have great customer support unlike Scat which if there is a problem it's always installation error in their eyes, KB makes two forged pistons for the 390.
If you want longevity and durability take the extra time and money,and do it right the first time.
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297 Posts
What do you think about the heavy duty cast crank from mopar performance. I found one on jegs for $400?
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297 Posts
If i fully ported the stock intake manifold, cut the runners back about 4 or 5 inches, and ported the top out to 53mm would it flow well enough to feed a 390?
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1,384 Posts
this, by the time you hack up the stock intake it'll probly have costed you as much as a m1 and still wouldnt flow enough/make as much power
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2,373 Posts
That crank will be fine for what you want to do. I had a cast crank in my 410 and was making close to 500HP with it.
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297 Posts
Hey what transmission will I have to use with this engine? Cause im guessing my 5spd nv3500 isnt gonna hold up to that much torque.
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1,384 Posts
tko 600 or viper spec t56
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1,591 Posts
How much torque are you looking for? My 200k mile NV3500 has stood up to 425-450ft/lbs at the crank for 34k miles now.
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297 Posts
about 500 ft lbs at the crank I hope.
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290 Posts
One of the manual tranny swaps that we can make work for these trucks are friggin expensive..we are talking 5-7 grand. Unless you just have a ton of money to throw around that is not realistic since it would be a mod that is worth more than the entire truck. I would leave the NV3500 and see how it holds up. I've had mine past the reccomended HP and TQ levels for almost a year with no problems at all and I didn't rebuild or replace the tranny when I rebuilt the motor. Now I am not turning that as much power as you hope to--or hahns is--but mine has 192k and makes no noises, shifts fine, etc. I just know the auto dakota's from our years have not so good automatics...
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297 Posts
Alright cool ill keep the nv3500. I was hoping id be able to cause I know a tranny swap would be ridiculously expensive. I wouldnt be able to afford it. Mine has 187k and is just fine as well. I know its a good tranny just wanted to make sure i could keep it with that much torque from the engine.
It will handel the torque just fine
what it will not handle is wheelspin meeting solid ground- wet pavement with wheel spin meeting dry pavement, ice meeting no ice etc all that inertia
This is why when you do a burnout it is a good idea to back off before the tires hook up and shock the chasis
In anycase there are many other weak spots- ujoints- axles etc
The obvious answer is a 4500- do a search
you can also look at what the aftrmarket sells to "fix" the weak part problems
what it will not handle is wheelspin meeting solid ground- wet pavement with wheel spin meeting dry pavement, ice meeting no ice etc all that inertia
This is why when you do a burnout it is a good idea to back off before the tires hook up and shock the chasis
In anycase there are many other weak spots- ujoints- axles etc
The obvious answer is a 4500- do a search
you can also look at what the aftrmarket sells to "fix" the weak part problems
Joined
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290 Posts
Yeah but a 4500 isn't a direct bolt up either, is it? Plus I assumed like most others if he were going throw money at a new tranny he would be looking to add a 6th gear instead of staying with a five speed--with that much power. But you could always beef up what you have if there is a reputable tranny shop locally. Alot of tranny shops scare me though--they have ripped me off in the past--i am very picky on transmission shops/guys
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290 Posts
Also I upgraded the clutch on my 3500 as well, but I am pushing roughly 290 hp at the rear wheels (360 tq) which isn't going anywhere near as far past the reccomendations as 500.
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297 Posts
I think ill just keep my nv3500 and take it easy on it. So no burnouts i guess. Im tryin to keep from spending over $4500 on this project. The engine alone is gonna cost $3500. i was gonna upgrade the clutch, get a 9 1/4 limited slip axle, and 4.10 gears also.
Two types of burnout problems
First is when the tires are hooked and you dump a strong clutch
Theother is when the tires are spinning with all that inertia and they suddenly hook
eithr can break parts
Use genuine Spicer U-joints
They are the ONLY ones that are deep case hardened
(not induction or flame hardened (sic))
a clutch with a llittle lighter spring pressure but with centrifigal assist is easier on the drivetrain
First is when the tires are hooked and you dump a strong clutch
Theother is when the tires are spinning with all that inertia and they suddenly hook
eithr can break parts
Use genuine Spicer U-joints
They are the ONLY ones that are deep case hardened
(not induction or flame hardened (sic))
a clutch with a llittle lighter spring pressure but with centrifigal assist is easier on the drivetrain
21 - 40 of 205 Posts
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