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C_elliott83

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
So i bought my 02 slt plus last week. And i know a used car is gonna have atleast 1 problem. But in my eyes its not that major to me id just like to know what it is.

Its a 4.7 and has a climate control issue. The controls have front and rear fan. When turning on the front fans they only cut on at the high setting. I tried all different modes. Even with ac on the ac light comes on at high but if i move the fan knob to any other it cuts the ac light off and doesnt blow.

Also the rear vents dont blow out warm air no matter what setting i use front controls or rear.

Am i looking at simply replacing the main climate control cluster, or something else?

Any suggestions
 
Congrats! Regarding the fan speed issue, you might want to search for blower fan resistor issues, as it seems to be a fairly common one.

Regarding the rear vents not blowing warm air, there are 2 causes that come up a lot. One is the electric auxiliary rear heat pump ($100 part, easy to replace), and the other is a broken blend door in the rear HVAC assembly located in the right rear of the vehicle (fairly difficult fix).
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Ill check out the resistor deal. I just thought it was wierd how it only works on high and figured it would be a climate control panel problem i can get a new 1 for about $60 on ebay if it does come down to that.

As for the rear where is the pump located?

Other than those 2 probs i couldnt be happier the thing runs great and the trans shifts better than a hot knife going through butter. Im very pleased with my buy
 
Here's a link on the resistor issue. The highest fan setting usually works because that one doesn't get limited by the (blown) resistors.

http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=65326&highlight=resistor

As for the rear heat pump, it's located under the hood, passenger side, mounted high up on the firewall. You'll see 2 heater hoses going to it, and the pump itself is a black plastic cylindrical piece about the size of a cardboard toilet paper roll. Replacing it is just a matter of pulling the hoses off (may leak some), pulling the pump off the rubber grommet, disconnecting the electrical connector, and putting it back together with the new pump. Some have just swapped in an elbow, but I'm not sure what you give up with that compromise.
 
When u take out the resistor, check out the connector/wiring for sigms of melting. otherwise you can probably get by with just the resistor
 
Discussion starter · #9 ·
So i scanned over the linked thread above and didnt see the answer to this.

Do i have to move or remove anything to get to the resistor? Im going to put it in tomorrow and i took a quick look today while i had literally 10 seconds lol. But i didnt see it, i didnt know if theres anything to move to get to it
 
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