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PinkFloydEffect

· 1988 Dakota 3.9L-TBI
89 Shelby Dakota
Joined
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780 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
My grandfather sold me his Dakota for $300 with 70k on it! It was in a 12-year storage from 1996-2008, carbureted 3.9L V6, automatic transmission with 2WD. He bought it in 2008 from the original owner, in 2009 the brakes failed and it hit a telephone pole to save a child's life instead. All he did was replace the grill, one headlight and headlight/turn signal door/shell along with the bumper and that was it.
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Two years later I just bought it, and this is how it looks. The dented hood remains along with a crooked left light, actually the entire door/shell does not fit in the fender properly. Also the bumper is closer then normal to the left headlight door/shell.
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With the front end apart it might be hard to see in the photo but the left frame rail that was welded on is slightly facing upward which I think is why the bumper is closer up on that side.
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This is why the left headlight door/shell does not fit correctly, and why the headlight does not shine straight:
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I have started working on a custom grill of some sort experimenting with the old grill from the accident, there is a small crack and missing one mounting hole tab. I used a Dremel tool to cut it all out and then smoothed it down, primed the whole thing. I will eventually on the good grill use a fiberglass boat repair kit to fill in the "D" or "C" shaped cutouts where the grill attached.
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I'm looking into the possibility of a cowl induction scoop, 38" long, 23" wide and 2-1/2" tall. At 38" it would cover the entire hoods length, and I would have to blend it into the hood somehow, especially along the front [SUM-471500]
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I have been slowly swapping out all my interior panels from blue to grey. The 88' column panel had this wedge/wing that tucked behind the rear column panel, but the newer grey panel does not... I should have taken a photo.
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Discussion starter · #2 · (Edited)
hvac

My 88' does not have AC, so I will be working on an AC transplant. Starting with my HVAC control panel, slide selector style with no AC, four single vacuum lines.
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This is my new control panel out of a 95' with push button selectors and AC, just needs to be cleaned up. The only differences are the larger 3 wires to the left being different colored and the vacuum lines. The red, yellow and black vacuum lines are split into two and there is an addition of two different shade green lines.
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Despite the differences it plugs right in and works fine (so far). The disconnect plug on the vacuum line cluster is compatible with my 88' so it also plugged right in and works fine so far. My AC button lights up when I push it in and I haven't blown any fuses haha.
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There is a spot for the AC pump on the serpentine belt along with what appears to be a plug for the pump clutch? I'm going to try to get some sort of signal reading out of the plug when I push the AC button to see if there is a connection.
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Also I have this new feature on this 95' HVAC panel, all the way to the left (coldest) there is a groove it clicks into above "HI" that looks like an in-car circulation only? Do you put the temperature setting on this when using the AC or something?
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I traced the light and dark green vacuum lines from the controls down to this actuator type of unit:
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It must be for that inside air only setting on the HVAC slider, and there appears to be a filter for the inside air inlet:
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The original air-box in my 88' only has a blank panel where this system is setup. I wonder if I can just switch out the front half of the air-box with the opening/filter on it, the box splits like a split rim:
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Discussion starter · #3 · (Edited)
I replaced the front core support today (between fenders and around radiator). Ran out of daylight so I left the hood latch for tomorrow.... well I just went out for a coffee and doughnut going about 35mph and the hood flew up, over my wipers smashed onto my windshield, friggan blocked 110% of my vision almost got in an accident. Bent both my hood hinge arms sideways and back, now the hood sits a few inches up on all 4 sides!
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Also if you notice in the circle it dented this panel in... I will be replacing that too I guess:
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This is with the new core-support installed out of a dark blue 1990 (the same year I was born we'll see if it brings me any good luck). It had AC so the radiator supports are still on it for when I upgrade, also do you notice that the air fin/guide for the main radiator is missing? Now there is a long opening to the right of the radiator, and if you look on the bottom there is a black plastic fin aiming downward to scoop air is this an AC only thing or a factory upgrade during a year change?
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This is one of the tabs for the air fin/guide to the right of the main radiator, appears as if it was removed from the factory before it was painted??
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I am looking at what I want to do for hood pins, and these hood stoppers are basically right where I wanted them. Are these here for when you slam the hood or do they provide stability for hood flexing? I could always find a way to put the pins through them since they look hollow, it would make it easy to find where to drill through the hood as well:
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I ordered these headlight lenses, they are the only black 4x6's I can find made out of glass. Looks like they have an opening for some sort of accessory lighting, maybe I will put some strobes in them so I can safely pass old fucks in a non-passing zone haha I will need some H4 bulbs and ballasts I want good ones but don't even know where to start. I hope these lenses are not cheaply made, I'm going to go with 6000k bulbs because I want a crisp bright white without ANY of that blue nonsense.
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I also ordered a set of clear turn signal lenses that I plan to use LED bulbs in:
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Discussion starter · #4 ·
LED Dome-Light

I replaced my incandescent dome light bulb with a new LED bulb. It's more of a panel, with 12 LEDs (much more even coverage). It's bright as fuk too!
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There is a dramatic color difference as well, you can see here between the LED and stock vanity/dash light. The LEDs have more of a natural white sunlight color.
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As you can see the before and after:
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I took a comparison in two different camera ISO levels (light exposure time).

ISO-200 (BEFORE & AFTER)

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ISO-400 (BEFORE & AFTER)
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Pretty cool build, what you got going on now with it? Looks like its gonna be a pretty sweet truck.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
I need to finish painting the black on the nose, install my cowl-induction scoop, roll pan and some new glass before I tint. Also I have a $2,400 stereo going in not including the head-deck and I wont even have subs! (yet)
 
I like it man, keep it up
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
lets see the hood scoop after you put it on. i have an 87 that i am looking a scoop.
It won't be until at least spring.

Any updates on the custom grille?
Nope, everything sits as is right now because I don't have a heated garage to work in and New England is brutal in the winter. It's my daily driver truck actually.


Since it's cold out I have been focusing on cab work, here is my new amplifier for my door speakers it's a Zapco C2K-2.5X (MSRP $1,412):
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These are my new component door speakers, I removed the rear fills I won't be needing them with these! They are Focal KRX2's (MSRP $1,199):
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It would be easy to put a gen 2 hood, core support, grill and bumper on it. Looks good either way though. Where did you get that dome light bulb?
 
man awesome build! SUBSCRIBED!! also if i were you id sell that amp get a cheaper one and buy a heater for your garage ;) jk looks good regardless
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
It would be easy to put a gen 2 hood, core support, grill and bumper on it. Looks good either way though. Where did you get that dome light bulb?
Over my dead body!!! The only reason I own this thing is because of the box nose honestly I hate the 91-96' clip.

I don't remember, some website possibly eBay. Just Google or eBay search "LED Dome Light" they come in tons of variations.

I love 1st gens, the only thing I hate about them is the uncomfortable bench seats haha.
Agreed, actually I have been on a hunt for a pair of good condition leather buckets. Came close to taking some out of a Benz might have been a BMW they were power, heated, black leather for $50 a piece but there was a little bit of wear on the drivers seat as you ALWAYS find because nobody conditions their freakn leather.

man awesome build! SUBSCRIBED!! also if i were you id sell that amp get a cheaper one and buy a heater for your garage ;) jk looks good regardless
Haha, hell no don't get me ranting about this amp it's one of the best built amps you can buy made in the US. I don't even have a garage :(
 
Discussion starter · #19 ·
Short beds rule! Power:Weight


I used two floor jacks (one under front engine support, and another under rear bumper) to add 3" to the suspension. The front went from 5" of clearance to 8" and the rear went from 7" to 10" which is where they both reached maximum "hang" before the wheels left the ground. SO I think I will try to sneak a 3" front coil spring spacer in there (two 1-1/2" spacers top/bottom). Then two add-a-leaf kits on each rear leaf stack might give me 3" in the rear??
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These are 14" wheels so 15s will be no problem. Not sure if I will want the additional 2" of body lift or not...
 
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