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Ryan_D

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I have a 1999 Dodge Durango SLT 4x4 with the 5.9 Magnum in it. Lately, it's been very slow to turn over, almost like a dead battery. However, it does start, and the battery gauge stays right in the middle of the voltage field, where it normally does. On friday, however, it did the same thing when going to pick up my kids from school, but when we went to leave to go to the store about 30 mins later, it gave me nothing. Took the battery out, went to a parts store, where they said it was at about 490 out of 700 amps. The battery was manf'd in 2008. I charged it over night, put it back in, and now all I get is an electronic clicking noise. But as long as I hold the key, eventually the engine will start to very slowly crank, and then gradually crank a little more and a little more, until it starts to fire. However, in order to keep it running, I have give it gas and keep the RPMs up, otherwise it will die. Even while I'm driving it, I have to shift to neutral and keep my foot on the gas a bit otherwise it will die. Occasionally, it will drive normally, but most of the time, it will not idle at all. I've been religious about oil changes and maintenance, periodic fuel system cleaners, always the same brand. Mechanic assured me using 15W-40 in the engine would help keep it clean (I know, that's a diesel oil, but was told it's good to run on high-mileage vehicles because it keeps any gunk cleaned out), and I buy good gas about once a week. As an afterthought, I have had periodic issues with corrosion building up on e negative battery terminal, and I replaced the post connectors for both the + and - sides. Any ideas what we could be looking at here? Sorry for e lengthy narrative.

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Discussion starter · #2 ·
P.s. The car, when started, will frequently start with the O/D OFF light illuminated on the dash, and the alarm still functions normally, and the interior lights aren't dim or unlit.


Sent from my Autoguide iPad app
 
Sounds like a bad battery to me. :huh:

Make sure that your contacts are clean and tight, both at the battery and the PDC and grounds.

If it is still having problems, drive the car to a parts store, and let them test the battery and alternator while in the truck.

Mopars do some very weird things with low / dying / dead batteries.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
I plan on doing that...I checked the battery cells, and they were a little low so I put some distilled water in them. I was thinking alternator as well, but I don't think that's it because once the car is running, it stays running as long as I keep the RPMs up, and the battery voltage regulator gauge stays right in the middle, where it's always registered since I bought it. The car has never just "died" on me while going down the road, unless I let the RPMs drop. Should I have the auto-parts store test the battery under load? I'm strongly considering buying a new battery anyway...
 
The autoparts store will place a load on the battery to test. I don't think they have a way to test the battery accurately with the engine running (due to the alternator charging).

I have never had luck refilling any battery. Seems like by the time the plates were higher than the water...the cell was fried.
 
Sounds like the alternator is weakening to me... Mine did things pretty similar about a year ago. I ended up buying the alternator and replaced it with my father, only took about 2 hours including driving time to get the new one and return the old one so its not too bad.

With the alternator the truck would stay running, exactly what mine did. It had a hard time starting but once it was running it was running no problems at all. Definitely worth looking into...
 
Discussion starter · #7 ·
Update: Rough starting this morning, but once started, did not need to use Neutral and feather the throttle to keep it running. When I had removed the battery to charge it and fill the cells, I completely cleaned all gunk, grease, dirt and dampness from the battery. However, this morning, I noticed a trail of dampness under the car on the driver's side, the ring of it looked like the white crustiness that you mind find with corrosion. And the top and side of the battery is damp and dirty again.

An added note...on Friday when the car wouldn't start prior to me removing the battery, a couple of times I saw the tiniest tendril of smoke come from the battery area when I was trying to start the car.
 
Update: Rough starting this morning, but once started, did not need to use Neutral and feather the throttle to keep it running. When I had removed the battery to charge it and fill the cells, I completely cleaned all gunk, grease, dirt and dampness from the battery. However, this morning, I noticed a trail of dampness under the car on the driver's side, the ring of it looked like the white crustiness that you mind find with corrosion. And the top and side of the battery is damp and dirty again.

An added note...on Friday when the car wouldn't start prior to me removing the battery, a couple of times I saw the tiniest tendril of smoke come from the battery area when I was trying to start the car.
Replace the battery! :)

I've had a battery explode on me - it must have been leaking in a similar manner as yours is.

Ruined the paint on the fender, and dented the hood.

$80 battery could save you $$$ in body work if it is leaking as you describe.
 
Once the vehicle is started, it does not need the battery to continue running; the alternator supplies power for the accessories and charges the battery.

I would agree with diagnosis that the battery is suspect.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Okay...so, replacement batteries? Is the Optima battery really worth double the price of the regular battery?
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
UPDATE: Went to O'Reilly's and got a new battery. $94.00 later, the car fired right up, no hesitation. I drove 30 minutes to school with no problems (freeway driving @ 70 mph, give-or-take). We'll see what happens after school lets out. I'm in class for 3 hours, which normally would be enough to make it not want to start.
 
Once the vehicle is started, it does not need the battery to continue running; the alternator supplies power for the accessories and charges the battery.

I would agree with diagnosis that the battery is suspect.
So according to you... the truck doesn't need the battery to run once it's started but you still agree that the battery is causing the OP's truck to not run :jester:

Our trucks won't run if the battery isn't in top shape, even 1 cell going out will cause this kind of problem.
 
So according to you... the truck doesn't need the battery to run once it's started but you still agree that the battery is causing the OP's truck to not run :jester:

Our trucks won't run if the battery isn't in top shape, even 1 cell going out will cause this kind of problem.
More correctly, the truck needs the battery to start, not run, as is true with any vehicle except a Prius. Lol
 
Discussion starter · #15 ·
Yep...came out of class 3 1/2 hours later and the car fired right up with no hesitation. I'm convinced that was the problem. Thanks for the help, everyone.
 
You're lucky. When my batteries went (twice), They just went without warning. I could't even jump it. Autozone replaced the last one free of charge, even though there was only a few months left on the warranty
 
Allow me to clarify once again Justin; newer cars require a battery to run the computer controlled electronics. Older cars did not need to have a battery to run, as no electronics were required.

I was speaking in general terms as it relates to power requirements for starting and charging. If you would like to discuss specifics, we can do that too.
 
Allow me to clarify once again Justin; newer cars require a battery to run the computer controlled electronics. Older cars did not need to have a battery to run, as no electronics were required.

I was speaking in general terms as it relates to power requirements for starting and charging. If you would like to discuss specifics, we can do that too.
keep back pedaling.. :jester: Not once in this thread was an older vehicle mentioned, our trucks fall under your category of "newer cars" and require the battery to run

the truck needs the battery to start, not run, as is true with any vehicle except a Prius. Lol
wrong and wrong.... you can keep clarifying all you want, if you know as much as you seem to think you know why don't you just post the correct info the first time instead of repeatedly clarifying your original statement?
 
Once the vehicle is started, it does not need the battery to continue running; the alternator supplies power for the accessories and charges the battery.

I would agree with diagnosis that the battery is suspect.
Are you sure?? :huh:

I thought the battery was like a pool of power for everything. All power is drawn through the battery, however the alternator provides the power (and then some to charge) to the battery. This way at idle, there is a reserve of power for when the ALT isn't reaching it's peak output.
 
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