hey guys been sorta looking for a 5.2 to swap into my 97. Found a guy with one out of a 96 dodge truck (his words) with 126k on it. ran when he pulled it. I plan on tearing it down and rebuilding it. He will take $150 for it. He said it come with oil pan to fuel injectors. Seem lke a good deal?
good deal?
G63
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hey guys been sorta looking for a 5.2 to swap into my 97. Found a guy with one out of a 96 dodge truck (his words) with 126k on it. ran when he pulled it. I plan on tearing it down and rebuilding it. He will take $150 for it. He said it come with oil pan to fuel injectors. Seem lke a good deal?
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yupp
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$150? that's not bad at all! i know some Jeep people who will spend $500 on a used 4.0L block with nothing else on it and use those for a stroker project. hell, man, i kind of wish i was in your shoes to get that 5.2, haha
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hey guys yea I have a 3.9 now with 147k. Yea mny plan was to rebuild it before I swapped them. Whats a good rebuild kit to go with? Another question also I wanted to make sure of. The guy that does my PA emissions and inspections said since my dakota doesnt have an egr valve that this motor can't either. Does anyone know if the 96 ram 5.2 had an egr valve?
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yeah, the 5.2 does have an EGR. but i'm kind of questioning your emissions guy about saying your Dak can't have one if you do the engine swap. i mean, unless he is looking for you to fail an emissions test and slap a fine or want to bill you for replacing a part thats easy enough to work on yourself. just my 2-cents.
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well I have been going to him since i was 17 for what I dont do. He was saying the inspection law in Mercer County PA states that if the truck had it or did not have it for emissions from the factory it must have it or it cant have to pass inspection. If that made sense. Basically to pass if it had an egr it must still have it. if it didnt have an egr it cant have it. is there a way to et around this besides going to another inspection place?
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ah, i see the issue there... that's a bummer. gotta love the bureaucratic ideals, eh?
i know you can find block off plates to cover the area where the EGR should be, but as for a redirect, i'm not to sure of the options for that. you could try searching for some type of kit for that, but i am not familiar of one that exists. but, for the sake of passing the inspection, i would definitely try to find something that helps burn some of the exhaust gases. or if you know someone who has an incredible ******* engineering degree, they could probably rig something up, haha.
i know you can find block off plates to cover the area where the EGR should be, but as for a redirect, i'm not to sure of the options for that. you could try searching for some type of kit for that, but i am not familiar of one that exists. but, for the sake of passing the inspection, i would definitely try to find something that helps burn some of the exhaust gases. or if you know someone who has an incredible ******* engineering degree, they could probably rig something up, haha.
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96 has the EGR in the castings but it is plugged. even if it was there, an M1 and a set of headers would get rid of it.
a 97 i believe won't even have the casting for it but i think it still has the split intake for some stupid reason.
you could in all honestly leave everything right on your intake, and just swap intakes. i would not recommend that, but you could
i would swap to a 97 318 computer and have the two injectors added to your harness (really easy)
and +1 on the bore. to just re ring it would be stupid.
a 97 i believe won't even have the casting for it but i think it still has the split intake for some stupid reason.
you could in all honestly leave everything right on your intake, and just swap intakes. i would not recommend that, but you could
i would swap to a 97 318 computer and have the two injectors added to your harness (really easy)
and +1 on the bore. to just re ring it would be stupid.
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ok going to show my stupidty on motors now. (which is why I want to do this project to learn, and why I m having my uncle help) How much does it cost to have thengine bored out? Im assuming it is something that can;t be done easily at home. And I was going to go with a master rebuild kit over just the gaskets. This project probably wont start until summer/fall. Im jsut trying to gather all the parts now. Im picking the engine up saturday.
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ugh... that's a tough question as to cost...
really just depends on who you take it to. some places will do it for less than other, also helps if you "know a guy," and depending on the quality of the work as well. unless you have a machine shop and all the right equipment at home, you can't really do it. it's some very precise work.
really just depends on who you take it to. some places will do it for less than other, also helps if you "know a guy," and depending on the quality of the work as well. unless you have a machine shop and all the right equipment at home, you can't really do it. it's some very precise work.
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it can range anywhere from 300 to 1k depending on the shop, the tools, etc.
it's not just bored. you get it hot tanked, bored, have the decks checked, etc.
you should also get your crank micd and polished if your re-using it. and if your using semi-floating pins they will need to put them on.
MAKE SURE EVERY CAP YOU TAKE OFF THE BOTTOM END IS STAMPED SO IT CAN GO BACK IN THE SAME PLACE, THE SAME WAY.
they are line bored. if you switch two, or put one on backwards, you will spin a bearing.
same with the rod caps. they match up.
it's not just bored. you get it hot tanked, bored, have the decks checked, etc.
you should also get your crank micd and polished if your re-using it. and if your using semi-floating pins they will need to put them on.
MAKE SURE EVERY CAP YOU TAKE OFF THE BOTTOM END IS STAMPED SO IT CAN GO BACK IN THE SAME PLACE, THE SAME WAY.
they are line bored. if you switch two, or put one on backwards, you will spin a bearing.
same with the rod caps. they match up.
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hey guys thanks for the tips. I finally got around to ordering a haynes manual last night and the book "How to Rebuild Mopar Magnum V8 Engines" by Larry Shepard. Anybody ever use/read his book, and if so any good? I dont really plan on starting anything with the engine anytime soon. As long as I can keep the funds coming in I plan on tearing the truck apart quite a bit. Im going to hopefully replace the bed (might end up going with a steel flat bed) , new fenders and rocker panels. New brake lines when I get the bed off, either a 2 or 3 in body lift. Have to take the dash off have a loose wire somewhere ( guages reset when I hit bumps soemtimes and now my headlights arnt staying on unless I hold the switch) Changing the transmission filter and more Im sure im forgetting.
I know a lot of people would say just get a new truck, but I think it would be a fun project and something to learn some stuff from my uncle ( a jack of alltrades master at none if you will lol) Anything else you guys can recommemd with the engine or maintenance while I have the truck tore apart? If it wasnt for this website I probably never would have thought of undertaking this kind of project, but this place is awesome with the info your guys' knowledge.
I know a lot of people would say just get a new truck, but I think it would be a fun project and something to learn some stuff from my uncle ( a jack of alltrades master at none if you will lol) Anything else you guys can recommemd with the engine or maintenance while I have the truck tore apart? If it wasnt for this website I probably never would have thought of undertaking this kind of project, but this place is awesome with the info your guys' knowledge.
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that's part of the fun of having a vehicle like that: you learn a ton by working on it!
if you're going to have the whole thing torn apart as well, check your steering and suspension components, and all the other little things. makes it nice once you get the whole thing back together.
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if you can find a replacement bed at the local pick-and-pull that doesn't have a ton of rust, maybe just minor surface stuff, makes for a good time filler and practice piece to do Bondo work with.
i unfortunately have a hole on the passenger side right atop the wheel well that i did a rough temp body fill with when i got it. when i get that tax refund check, i have to take it in to get patched up. i hate driving something that looks like it is at the beginning phase of elephantiasis.
i unfortunately have a hole on the passenger side right atop the wheel well that i did a rough temp body fill with when i got it. when i get that tax refund check, i have to take it in to get patched up. i hate driving something that looks like it is at the beginning phase of elephantiasis.
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