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Im not sure what you mean.
The three adjustable holes are offset to one side, you need to know if they're closer or farther to the front or rear to determine the side they go on.
 
The one on the right looks like the passenger side based on the angle it has in it but that's an educated guess.
 
Thats exactly what I was getting at... Now just to get an answer.
 
Grind or torch the heads off and air hammer them out. It really isn't too bad as long as you have those tools, no substitutions. This is one of my 4 different drops so I don't just talk out of my ass lol.

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And remember I'm raised back up for a reason, just to get you thinking :stirthepo Plus you live in Chicago, get yourself a new DD!
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
And remember I'm raised back up for a reason, just to get you thinking :stirthepo Plus you live in Chicago, get yourself a new DD!
You know the way I think about it is that im doing it right now blocks (no offense) and if you think Ill have a nice set of tires for the winter and a nice set for the summer. So if you think a honday civic will still sit lower then me and still drive in the snow.
 
its been too long for me to remember exactly which is which but there is a right/left, the leaf bolts point out, unbolt the rear will make it easier, these are 3" drop hangers - 3" 2" 1"- lower hole is 1" and reroute the e-brake line to run in between the bracket and leaf, also have fun tryin to hold the bolt head on the driver side inside the frame
 
Discussion starter · #30 ·
its been too long for me to remember exactly which is which but there is a right/left, the leaf bolts point out, unbolt the rear will make it easier, these are 3" drop hangers - 3" 2" 1"- lower hole is 1" and reroute the e-brake line to run in between the bracket and leaf, also have fun tryin to hold the bolt head on the driver side inside the frame
I'm actually thinking about taking the bed off since the bed will already be unbolted to take the BL off
 
This pic is of the left side hanger... Left of pic is towards the front of the truck, this looks right to me but I am just guessing. If somebody can confirm or deny whether this is correct it would be helpful. Also the other pics are of the fender well gap and the amount of travel for the bump stops. Fender well gap is 4" with 27" tires, then from the top of axle tube to bottom of stock bump stop is 1.5" and from the top of axle tube to bottom of frame is 3.5"

Looking at these measurements I have made up my mind to go with just the hanger at the least drop setting (2" if I am not mistaken) or possibly the middle (2.5") setting. Since my WC 2" drop lower control arms are still on back order I was thinking about getting my $425 back and going with a coil spring that will give me an addition inch drop up front and calling it a day. Then I can use the money for a pair of 28"x10"x15" slicks to mount on the 15x8 dakota wheels that I just bought and a set of caltract bars and QA1 10 way adjustable shocks for the rear as well as smaller bump stops. Also with me not slamming it like originally planned allowing for the 28" tall slicks should allow me to instal the 4:56's although I might possibly hit the rev limiter before I hit the end of the quarter mile. Not a big deal since I can fix that with some better valve springs and up the rev limiter... Should make for one HELL of a ride!:mullet:
 

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Yea that looks like it would have to be right since the holes are straight up and down, if it were switched around they'd run diagonally.
 
Yea thats what I was thinking. Good for me cause I really didn't feel like taking that shit back apart!
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
WTF I wanna run a 3'' drop and with these it looks like the axle will be hitting the bump stops in a second. Damn I gotta figure this out. Also here is another pic of a members, Id say its the passenger side.
 

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WTF I wanna run a 3'' drop and with these it looks like the axle will be hitting the bump stops in a second. Damn I gotta figure this out. Also here is another pic of a members, Id say its the passenger side.
Yea you need shorter bump stops and it'll still bottom out. Just c-notch it :mullet: I drove around with a 1/2" clearance of hitting short bump stops, it's not fun, the joys of lowering a truck.
 
Discussion starter · #37 ·
Yea you need shorter bump stops and it'll still bottom out. Just c-notch it :mullet: I drove around with a 1/2" clearance of hitting short bump stops, it's not fun, the joys of lowering a truck.
Damn really 3'' drop in back and you bottom out already? Shit! Where can shorter bump stops be bought and can i even cut these?
 
Don't worry too much about it, with stiffer shocks you'll rarely have a problem at 3".
 
Yea on the hangers the bottom leaf spring mounting hole is a 2" drop (thats the one I have mine bolted to), the second from the bottom is a 2.5", and the third from the bottom is 3" drop... With mine bolted on the bottom hole (2" drop) I have about 1.5" from the top of the axle to the bottom of the stock bump stop. The way other dudes have been talking on this site and dakota rt site is that with much drop at all you have to either cut the stock bump stop in half or replace it with a lower profile aftermarket bump stop and worst case scenerio put a notch in to give adequate travel. Thats why I just said the hell with it and decided to just go with the hangers up front with a 2" possibly 2.5" inch and then up front drop it with an additional 1" drop coil so I can still have the travel I need at the track to make this thing squat and go plus it will free up about $400 for other stuff... like caltracs, slicks, QA1's, and instal of my 4:56's!
 
Remember he ^^ has an RT so he's already an inch lower than you. My SXT had 7" drop from stock until I sat on the axle, so you should have like 4" travel left.
 
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