Dakota Durango Forum banner
Cancel
Create thread New Garage Forums

Heater core troubles

Jump to Latest
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
B

bigbadwolf

· Registered
Joined
·
57 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
I pulled the dash on my 99 dak 2wd v-6 to get to the heater core. I'm kinda stuck because I can't get the unit that the heater core is in off the fire wall. It looks (and feels) kinda like it's only glued to the fire wall. :huh:

i hate being stalled like this *GRRRRRR* I know as soon as I figure it out or get help I'll be :forehead:
 
#2 ·
bigbadwolf said:
I pulled the dash on my 99 dak 2wd v-6 to get to the heater core. I'm kinda stuck because I can't get the unit that the heater core is in off the fire wall. It looks (and feels) kinda like it's only glued to the fire wall. :huh:

i hate being stalled like this *GRRRRRR* I know as soon as I figure it out or get help I'll be :forehead:
Click to expand...
On the engine side of the firewall you've got 4 or 5 nuts/bolts to remove as that is what is holding it in there.
 
Discussion starter · #3 ·
Yup! Sure were! Thanks! I got it out! 1/3 the work is done! (cause getting all back together always is 2/3 the project LOL). Do you guys think I should replace anything else while I'm in there? blower motor, the a/c stuff(terminology escapes me for the moment, so "thingy" should suffice, LOL). Thanks again for the help ME111! And TIA for up and comming advice!
 
#4 ·
bigbadwolf said:
Yup! Sure were! Thanks! I got it out! 1/3 the work is done! (cause getting all back together always is 2/3 the project LOL). Do you guys think I should replace anything else while I'm in there? blower motor, the a/c stuff(terminology escapes me for the moment, so "thingy" should suffice, LOL). Thanks again for the help ME111! And TIA for up and comming advice!
Click to expand...
IMO its a toss-up to replace the "thingy" and blower motor while you've got it apart if indeed they are working fine now. Personally, if they work fine now I wouldn't mess with them. If you do decide to replace them, you take the chance of a manufacturer's defect with them which will cause you to redo anyway. This also applies to the heater core you're putting in there now.
 
#5 ·
i would clean the shit out of the ac core.
also, i would sound deaden the fire wall while you can.
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #6 ·
ME111 said:
IMO its a toss-up to replace the "thingy" and blower motor while you've got it apart if indeed they are working fine now. Personally, if they work fine now I wouldn't mess with them. If you do decide to replace them, you take the chance of a manufacturer's defect with them which will cause you to redo anyway. This also applies to the heater core you're putting in there now.
Click to expand...
Yeah, I'm of two minds of it too. As far as my current heater core is concerned, I'd rather take the chance of a manufactures defect rather than inhaling vaporized antifreeze all winter LOL. Thanks for the perspective though

Shimrra said:
i would clean the shit out of the ac core.
also, i would sound deaden the fire wall while you can.
Click to expand...
How would you go about cleaning out the a/c core? what would u use? i didn't really think that much stuff gunked up in there...hmmm

Handn't thought about sound deadening the firewall! Excellent idea!
 
#8 ·
by clean i mean get some citrus based cleaner and clean the SHIT out of it you can make that bitch clean. anything in/on it will keep the heat from exchanging, but also you can disinfect and clean all the dust out of the tubes, and now you get a chance to make it smell really nice and not dusty.
also, keep in mind, your a/c cycles when you put your defrost on.

also, any little thing you want to put into your dash, now is the time. if you have been wanting to hardwire something in, do it now.
you could do something like This where you hardwire a USB power regulator and then put a female plug somewhere so you can just put USB cables to power your cellphone or GPS instead of using a big cigarette lighter adapter
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #9 ·
Well, I gone and done it now! The door that controls where the air is directed towards has a post that is it's control attached to that control servo. I broke that damn post.
If anyone has a door or heat/air unit they can part with, pm me, we'll make a deal.

I'd tried using epoxy to put it back together to no avail. I'm gonna try to drill a hole down the middle of it and epoxy a screw or post of some kind down the middle. I don't have very much confidence because the plastic looks kinda brittle.

Again, any help is greatly appreciated. I enjoy riding and don't mind riding in the cold weather but it's comming on time where ice can form on the road (which my bike likes less than my truck) so getting it up and running sooner is better. TIA, BBW.
 
Discussion starter · #10 ·
Well, i figured it out! I got the heat/ac unit back in and the dash mostly in place lastnight.
I tried uploading pics but their too big....I'll try later

the short of it was that i took a piece of 1/4 inch all thread and a piece of 3/8 in stock (also available at homedepot)

I cut, bent and drilled the 3/8 stock and attached it to the 1/4" allthread using bolts. On the bottom half, I tried welding a tack to hold everything in place because I didn't have faith in locktite for this one. It not only needed to hold the nuts in place but also prevent the metal pieces I'd made from slipping out of place. The welds took too much space so I used some gorrilla glue on the top piece instead. I also had to drill out the top of the box a bit to accommodate the bolts on the inside holding the lower piece. Pics to come when i get the chance to make em smaller.

Right now I feel like:banana2:
I hope this helps someone in a similar predicament someday! i know I was scratching my head untill I found that that little stud could come out of the top of the door! It was all down hill from there!
 
#11 · (Edited)
Good timing on your post, the heater on my Durango is shot as well. Local mechanic says it's the core and quoted me $836 to replace it ... not gonna pay that in this lifetime.

I'm not really convinced the core is bad myself, I'm getting a tiny bit of heat just nowhere near what it should be. Talked to a cousin who's a pro mechanic tonight, he said he'd check it out and flush it, then if it does need to be replaced he can do it for less than half that.

I'd do it myself but it'd take me forever - I'm a retired draftsman/machinist not a mechanic. I'd prolly set the airbags off and die upside down under the dash with a screw driver through my noggin. :p

I see a Chilton's manual in my future, had one for my first car and it saved a lot of headaches.
Jack
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#12 ·
I had no problem doing my heater core. But the last nut was a bitch to get to. The nut was right behinded my transmission Dipstick tube. it too me forever to take off. Then she was free. I not a mechanic either but it only too me 6 hours to do it.
 
#13 ·
The good part of it is, since my cig lighter was busted when I bought it this is the perfect time to drop in a new one. I wonder if I could hard wire a coffee maker while I'm in there too. Hmmmmm...

I'm on disability and still have 17 payments left on my truck, that really limits what I can afford to fix right now. Oh yeah, Christmas is coming too. Perfect timing huh?
Jack
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
#15 ·
I hadn't gotten around to pricing the cores yet, I was expecting more like $60-$80. The main reason I'm putting off the project is my bad back. I've had two spinal fusions (lumbar and cervical) plus an additional spine surgery in between the two. I replaced the battery in my Chevy Lumina two years ago and being bent over under the hood for the hour or so it took to do the job put me in bed for the next week.

Sometimes doing things like that can't be avoided (like doing my own heater core). I know I'll have to do it eventually but I sure ain't looking forward to it. Getting my cousin's help would save a lot of down time, not to mention busted knuckles and broken parts.

I any case, last time I pulled a dash was on my '84 Cutlass. I know exactly squat about dealing with airbags, anything I need to know before I start tinkering around under there?

Thanks,
Jack
 
Save
Reply Quote Like Like
Discussion starter · #17 ·
Here are some pics of what i used to fix that little post that broke on the heater door. The first one attaches to the servo that controls the door. The second pic shows the piece that moves the door. I made these pieces from some 3/8 inch stock and the piece of all thread is 1/4 inch. I hope it comes in handy.

Thanks for all the advice! I decided that I broke enough stuff so I didn't fix anything else LOL.

Thanks again everyone!
 

Attachments

#19 ·
ive got 2 to replace, autozone has heater cores for $30 a piece, my 98 is bad -smellin anitfreeze strongly- which is leakin out threw the drain in the firewall and the other is my 00 which it had the same until it started pourin out into the passenger floor vent
 
Discussion starter · #20 ·
addicted2blue00 said:
ive got 2 to replace, autozone has heater cores for $30 a piece, my 98 is bad -smellin anitfreeze strongly- which is leakin out threw the drain in the firewall and the other is my 00 which it had the same until it started pourin out into the passenger floor vent
Click to expand...
It's a tough job but it's nice to save all that flow! you will have to get your a/c system evaculated professionally and then recharged as well. other than that, it's not a bad job, just labor intensive. I did break a few things and end up with a few spare screws. Take pictures through the entire process to remember how the vaccum lines are routed, where all the connectors run though and all. I disconnected a lot of stuff that I didn't need to. Mostly, the harness on the dash connects to the truck in just a few places. One is the big connector in the back under the drivers side, another is in the center, just below the windshield, and also in the middle behind a center bracket on the hump. something else i learned is that the bracket on the steering column that is attached to the doesn't need to come off. When you pull the instrument panel, the shifter indicator is just held on w 2 screws, this will save you from breaking that very fragile bracket on the column (what a PITA). Finally, I broke the little tab on that door in the Heat/AC unit when i pulled of that damn little bracket. Above are some pics of how i fixed it but be careful and it'll be much better. You will also have to take apart some stuff to access the fire wall. Not much though. I'd also never done a/c lines before but it wasn't bad (although i haven't gotten them refilled yet). Best of luck!
 
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
About this Discussion
21 Replies
9 Participants
Last post:
addicted2blue00
Dakota Durango Forum
posts
1.4M
members
58K
Since
2003
A forum community dedicated to all Dodge Dakota and Durango owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about modifications, troubleshooting, towing capacity, maintenance, and more!
Full Forum Listing
Explore Our Forums
Photos & Videos General Automotive Discussion Troubleshooter's Forum 4.7L/4.7L HO/4.7L Gen II Engines Suspensions - Lifted & Lowered