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Dakota R/T Misfire/Cutout Issue: Troubleshooting NGK Plugs, BWD Wires & More

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1bad99rt

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Im not sure if this is the right place to post this but my R/T dakota has a misfire/cutout that neither I nor the dealer can pinpoint. I am located in Jefferson County, MO. If anyone thinks they can fix this POS please contact me. I have to drive it to Pennsylvania in August and dont want to be stranded. I dont know where else to look. Below is what I have done.

New:

Plugs (NGK)
Wires (BWD Premium)
Cap and Rotor (BWD Premium)
Intake Gaskets (MOPAR all including plenum)
TPS (Duralast)
MAP (used off a running truck)
Compression is 150PSI + or - 2psi (all cyl when hot)
No crankcase vacuum

I dont know where else to turn. I dont have a ton of money but if someone wants to give me a hand with this, I'll pay you for your time (feed ya too). I am at my wits end here.
 
#4 ·
I would remove and check the plugs for gap. Sounds like you may have one set wrong. What did you set them at? Have you tried the Seafoam treatment to the engine? :huh:
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
bwdakrt said:
I would remove and check the plugs for gap. Sounds like you may have one set wrong. What did you set them at? Have you tried the Seafoam treatment to the engine? :huh:
Click to expand...
Plugs are gapped at .040". I did the seafoam treatment. Also checked for arching under the hood, came up with nothing. Im out of ideas and getting extremely tired of screwing with it.:cussing:
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Swapped my factory throttle body for a ported and polished one last night. I think I did something to the IAC valve since the idle is now lower than it should be. Is there a way to reset the idle? This is my first venture into fuel injection. I usually do carb vehicles.

If anyone is willing to help me out or fix this thing, I would really appreciate it and will compensate you for our time.
 
#8 ·
1bad99rt said:
Swapped my factory throttle body for a ported and polished one last night. I think I did something to the IAC valve since the idle is now lower than it should be. Is there a way to reset the idle? This is my first venture into fuel injection. I usually do carb vehicles.

If anyone is willing to help me out or fix this thing, I would really appreciate it and will compensate you for our time.
Click to expand...
If you didn't reset the PCM after the TB install, try that. When you start the engine just let it idle and DO NO REV. Let it idle until it comes up to operating temp and then switch it off and restart. Go for a drive making as many stops as possible while the PCM is relearning the part throttle settings.
 
#10 ·
1bad99rt said:
Was your truck not throwing a code either? I'll give that a shot, what are the best o2 senors to get?
Click to expand...
Nope, no codes. It would sputter and almost die, then rev up, then almost die/misfire. Then it would smarten up and run fine for the rest of the trip.

I'm not sure what the best ones are, I usually get just whatever my mechanic brother suggests.
 
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Discussion starter · #12 ·
MoPar Maniac said:
Plug gap should be .035.
Click to expand...
No, it is .040". Thats what my hood says and the Oreilly store said the same thing.

I replaced the fuel pump assembly last night. Still have the issue. I am going to replace the plugs tonight and see what that does. This shit is getting really old. The only things I have not replaced are the computer, o2 sensors, crank sensor, and cam sensor. All other ignition components have been replaced. I dont fucking understand it!:rant:
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
Daktaspt said:
Run some fuel system cleaner through it. Not just injector cleaner. Check fuel filter and pressure. Just my .02
Click to expand...
Shouldn't need to check fuel pressure/filter. Just put a new pump/filter/regulator/sending unit in last night.

I haven't replaced the O2 sensors yet. That will be the next thing I replace but I have to save up more money to do it. Dealer wants $90 a piece for the sensors. Still not getting a CEL.:huh:
 
#15 ·
1bad99rt said:
No, it is .040". Thats what my hood says and the Oreilly store said the same thing.

I replaced the fuel pump assembly last night. Still have the issue. I am going to replace the plugs tonight and see what that does. This shit is getting really old. The only things I have not replaced are the computer, o2 sensors, crank sensor, and cam sensor. All other ignition components have been replaced. I dont fucking understand it!:rant:
Click to expand...
Sorry about that, I looked at 1996, not 1999.

I wonder if you might have a cracked head or a sticking valve?

Some sensors, especially Bosch can be lazy. They can also act up and not set a code.

Just for grins, if you still have the miss after changing the plugs, try a smaller gap. Ya never know...
 
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Discussion starter · #16 ·
No biggie. Wish i had a 1996 to play with. I am going to put a new set of plugs in it today. What brand of O2 sensors should I get? Dealer gets about $90 a piece for them. Oreilly gets $60 but they are bosch sensors. I have heard bad things about bosch. I will be replacing them in a week or two. After replacing the fuel pump the other night, it cleared up a little, but the miss is still there.
 
#18 ·
are the plugs single tip or multiple tip?
i heard ngk (i think) makes decent O2's
and if it was an O2 sensor you would not have any issues when the engine was cold, because the PCM is running in open loop mode untill it is warm so it ignores the O2's till it's in closed loop
 
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Discussion starter · #19 ·
Shimrra said:
are the plugs single tip or multiple tip?
i heard ngk (i think) makes decent O2's
and if it was an O2 sensor you would not have any issues when the engine was cold, because the PCM is running in open loop mode untill it is warm so it ignores the O2's till it's in closed loop
Click to expand...
That is what it is doing. I only get the miss once it warms up. Now I just have to save up the money and buy em.
 
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MoPar Maniac
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