I can't find anyone who has done dual alts on a Dakota or Durango. I'm looking to do 2 high amperage alts as I will be running over 13,000 watts in my Durango. Anyone have any pics or info?
You are right, the hood will not close, it is to high, but only by a few inches. That is an easy fix though, simply customize the hood to give me extra height in that one area. Here is a picFirst off, will it fit there? as in, if you put it on top of and inbetween the Alt and A/C, will you still be able to close your hood? me thinks no.
I know this sounds dumb, but i do not want to mod the engine in anyway, that I cant make it stock again. I am also scared of things like this. I can honestly say that I am fairly new at this type of stuff, and putting it there seems impossible or very difficult. By mounting it at the top, I can use the main bolts from the original alternator and from the compressor, which are fairly solid. The pulley system I would have to make is the only design hurdle I am having trouble with. I am not sure how to attack the situation. Should I make it come off the arm that holds the second alt, or build a whole new arm that is bolted some place else?I would look at going low with it if I were you. maybe delete the belt tensioner, and mount it down there somewhere, with it mounted on a slotted bracket, then you'd just pull it tight, then snug down the bolts so it won't slip loose again.
I was thinking of that very idea. I do plan to eliminate the air box and install a cold air intake. The second alt in the current position hits the air box. I looked into placing it like the super charger, but the alt is much fatter, so it hits to much stuff. I would have to modify the hood even more. The area I have it in is the lowest possible.or maybe eliminate your stock air box, and rig up something that puts it way out there to the side, kinda like some of the supercharger kits that are out there, with the supercharger hanging way out over the inner fender and a mile long belt to drive it.
or, maybe even do a "dual belt" set up, add a pulley infront of the current Alternator, and mount that one off to the side, lined up with the additional pulley, and use 2 belts.
You lost me, the rotation would be the same. I am not changing the rotation at all. The 2 extra pulleys are specifically only to put force so that the belt has a good grip on the alternator pulleys. I have looked at the pulleys that are on GM designed brackets and they do the same thing. The only difference is that there is more inbetween the alternator and the water pump pully. Here is the original picture, then mine. I am not a pro at this stuff, so am I missing something that would change the rotation?to put the alt where you want to you would also have to add another pulley- not two pulleys on the alt but another one someplace else to keep the rotation the same- The rotation idea above looks great except it isn't practicle because it would be flowing water in reverese on the water pump.
I already have the alternator. I am just figuring how to install it. Whats the difference if the alternator is new or not?get an old school alt that uses a v belt.
On a v belt you dont have to be exact as to lining up.You have to be exact with a serpentine belt.I think thats what hes talking about.I already have the alternator. I am just figuring how to install it. Whats the difference if the alternator is new or not?
AHHHHHHHHH, I see what you saying. Well its a very small serpentine belt, infact I dont think it is a serpentine belt. It says its a V-Belt, unless you guys are talking about the thin skinny belts.On a v belt you dont have to be exact as to lining up.You have to be exact with a serpentine belt. I think thats what hes talking about.
The best way to get those stupid clutch fan bolts off is to use an air chisel.If you dont have access to one then a chain wrench.If you dont have a chain wrench then some BIG ass channel locks to grip the water pump pulley but you will have to get a rag or something so you dont scar the pulley.I use an air chisel with a good punch on the end.A couple of pulls on the trigger on the nut and it comes right off.AHHHHHHHHH, I see what you saying. Well its a very small serpentine belt, infact I dont think it is a serpentine belt. It says its a V-Belt, unless you guys are talking about the thin skinny belts.
Tomorrow I have to go to Autozone and hope they borrow me a wrench. I tried to use a pipe wrench to get the clutch fan out, but its too fat and hard to line up...... Already got the 180 thermostat.
I think there is a special tool I can rent. I may just do that. If not I'll try the chain wrench.The best way to get those stupid clutch fan bolts off is to use an air chisel.If you dont have access to one then a chain wrench.If you dont have a chain wrench then some BIG ass channel locks to grip the water pump pulley but you will have to get a rag or something so you dont scar the pulley.I use an air chisel with a good punch on the end.A couple of pulls on the trigger on the nut and it comes right off.
The problem is, the alternators for the 4.7L arent that powerful. The highest is 160 amps. I need more then that. Plus I want something that will not require taking up any space. I will have to add a second battery, but that will still go in the engine bay. The only hard part of the dual route is making a bracket to fit along with the 1st alternator and A/C compressor. I think once that is done, this will be a good upgrade. I have already lost about a quarter of space in the back because of the amps and computers, but if I had to add batteries, I would loose alot more of it.instead of dual alternaters, how about 1 higher output alt and a few batteries with isolator switches?
Do they have such a thing? If yes can you point me to it?if you want to run 2 alt... why no get a pully from Paxton that runs directly off the crank? Then get a 200amp or whatever size alternator yo want to run by itself.