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InTeNsE98RT

· That Guy
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Discussion starter · #1 ·
Has anybody ever taken their truck apart to the frame before? How heavy do you think a RC cab is? This winter im wanting to take mine down to the frame to POR15 it and fix some rust issues under the body of the truck also rust proof and paint it. Could I por15 under the cab and bed and use intense blue as a top coat? I just want to make sure it never rust again.

I will have the dash and most of the interior out of the cab at that time so it wouldn't be as heavy when lifting.
 
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#2 ·
InTeNsE98RT said:
Has anybody ever taken their truck apart to the frame before? How heavy do you think a RC cab is? This winter im wanting to take mine down to the frame to POR15 it and fix some rust issues under the body of the truck also rust proof and paint it. Could I por15 under the cab and bed and use intense blue as a top coat? I just want to make sure it never rust again.

I will have the dash and most of the interior out of the cab at that time so it wouldn't be as heavy when lifting.
Click to expand...
I know the RC isn't that heavy, I had 4 of us to move it.
 
#3 ·
InTeNsE98RT said:
Has anybody ever taken their truck apart to the frame before? How heavy do you think a RC cab is? This winter im wanting to take mine down to the frame to POR15 it and fix some rust issues under the body of the truck also rust proof and paint it. Could I por15 under the cab and bed and use intense blue as a top coat? I just want to make sure it never rust again.

I will have the dash and most of the interior out of the cab at that time so it wouldn't be as heavy when lifting.
Click to expand...
you should be able to do a paint over the por15...not sure if you have to do anything special to it so that it will adhere well.
 
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#5 ·
I have had two down to the frame. Doesnt way much at all. Toss it on a trailer and get her powder coated. Here in Georgia it would run you just over $500 to have it blasted and powder coated to your choice of color.

Shane
www.madrt.com
 
Discussion starter · #6 ·
Powder coating would look good but I just want something that looks decent and is durable. I would think por15 is more durable than powder coating but I could be wrong. Also I wasn't looking to spend a whole lot on that part.
 
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#7 ·
powder coating is WAY WAY more durable and it think it would be more worth your time and money to get it powder coated.
 
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#8 ·
I would agree with the powder coating, as that is what I plan to do until I can afford a complete frame off deal in a few years. However, this winter I am taking the bed off and POR15ing my frame. I'm not taking the cab off though. That will hold me over until I can powder coat. I am am really picky with how stuff turns out on my truck, so doing the front half of the frame could get interesting. I am going to be taping/masking so much so that it turns out perfect and doesn't look like a slop job.
 
#11 ·
I would think that a rust converter paint such as POR-15 would be better suited for what your doing than powdercoating. Whenever powercoat chips, it flakes off in good sized chunks, and you cant exactly touch it up, like you can with paint.

Not to mention that you can do POR-15 in your garage, with a brush/roller, or with a gun if you choose.

Then again, if your building a show truck, by all means powdercoat it. Hell, you can chrome it if ya want
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
threesixoh said:
I would think that a rust converter paint such as POR-15 would be better suited for what your doing than powdercoating. Whenever powercoat chips, it flakes off in good sized chunks, and you cant exactly touch it up, like you can with paint.

Not to mention that you can do POR-15 in your garage, with a brush/roller, or with a gun if you choose.

Then again, if your building a show truck, by all means powdercoat it. Hell, you can chrome it if ya want
Click to expand...
Thats what I was thinking. powdercoat would be alot more maintenance. I plan on driving my truck.
 
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#14 ·
If you want to paint over the por-15, you have to half-prime it when it's still tacky.

And hey, I was thinking of doing the same project this fall. I hope nobody minds if I add a question, but what would have to be disconnected before the cab can be taken off? Body mounts are obvious, but what about like, the gas petal, the 4x4 shifting?
 
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#15 ·
all linkages and cables(throttle, shifter, brake, 4x4 selector), wiring harnesses, front fenders, steering shaft, heater core hose, AC lines, etc

basically a lot of stuff. And ofc it will also be easier to lift the cap if you take the seats out of it.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
Its going to suck trying to remember where everything goes :jester: I plan on taking lots of pictures for good reference. Im going to try and clean up some of the wires in the engine bay to reduce the clutter as well as moving the battery to the bed.
 
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#17 ·
its really not that bad. When I did my build all I had to do what unbolt tha cab and it would have came off. Just take lots of pics and different angles and it will be fine. Powder coating will be much much better than por15. Remember por15 is still just paint.
 
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#18 ·
Getting it down to the frame is easy. I've taken the bed and front clip off mine, not bad at all. Cab shouldn't be too hard either, just need to disconnect the brake booster, heater hoses, AC lines and some wiring, should unbolt with your 4 cab mount bolts.

As for coating for the frame... If your going to drive it powder coating may not hold up. I've seen it chip on some cars that have been driven some. On my frame I used Eastwood's Rust Encapsulator as a primer and then some Valspar Farm Implement enamel.... The stuff is nice & glossy and tough as nails. Been 3 years and 15,000 miles since I did my frame, still looks like when I first did it ;)
 
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