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Doom4life

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Discussion starter · #1 · (Edited)
I am really pondering the thought that my '02 Dakota is a lemon and it may be time to sell it. Don't get me wrong, I love the truck... but I am sick of time and time again putting more money into this "money pit".

I've said it before, and I'll say it once more here: I don't think I have gone six months since I have owned it, where I had had no problems with it.

I made a post in the troubleshooting forum about an exhaust smell inside when running the heat/AC. I'm thinking its a broken manifold bolt, but the motor isn't sounding like ass yet (perhaps its just a very minor leak now)?

Then, just today I am getting the truck pulling to the left when I am braking. So now I am assuming I need a new caliper on the passenger side (but I will just replace both). Effectively, this means that I have gone through two sets of brake calipers (one bad drivers side, one "good drivers side and two bad passenger sides) in under 135,000kms.

Lets not get starting on how many front sway bar bushings I have gone through. Now my rear bushings need replacement.

So I start asking myself if mine is just the dud in the production, or are Mopar parts just crap?
 
I just use anti seize on the calipers, works for me. Raybestos I've had good luck with. Can't help with exhuast smell on internet, I'd have to look at the truck myself, but checking the manifold bolts would be a good start. Also, try changing the hoses because a blocked hose can mimic a stuck caliper. As for self bleeding kits I have only had good luck with my homeade one. I take a long lenth of vacuum hose, sized to fit the bleeder, and run it from one bleeder to a glass jar with some brake fluid already in it. The end of the hose goes under the surface of the brake fluid in the jar, and the bleeder is opened. Pump the pedal slowly until you get no more bubbles, checking the level regularly. When no more air comes from that brake, close the bleeder and do the next one. The proper order is; Right Rear, Left Rear, Right Front, Left Front. (farthest from to the nearest to the master cylinder) By the way, I say 'my homeade one man bleeder', but I got the idea from a Haynes Manual, so I take no credit for thinking of it, I just know it works well.
 
Discussion starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the tip! I have never bled my own brakes before (nor have I looked into the exact procedure yet), but I'm sure it is fairly straight forward..... Do I still need to bleed the rears (drums) even if I havent touched them?
 
yes, i would just to make sure theres no air in the system so it doesn't feel like a gm
 
LOL if those are your only complaints keep your truck.
 
Thanks for the tip! I have never bled my own brakes before (nor have I looked into the exact procedure yet), but I'm sure it is fairly straight forward..... Do I still need to bleed the rears (drums) even if I havent touched them?
No, if you haven't done any hydraulic work on your rear brakes (wheel cylinders or calipers, if so equipped, or replacing lines) there is no need to bleed them, unless your brake fluid is dark and dirty looking. Just do the right front , then the left front. By the way, do NOT allow brake fluid to spill inside the car if you do it yourself (like me). Your carpet will be ruined. this is why you use just a little fluid in the jar. Just enough to get the hose end below the surface without touching the bottom.
 
Discussion starter · #8 ·
Thats what I was thinking (about not doing the rears). However, I was thinking that since the fronts are going to be bled, why not do the rears to make sure there is no air.

But as an update, it might not be the calipers. I pulled them off, and either there wasn't any lube applied to the caliper pin or it had washed off. I ended up replacing all four pins (each side) as well as the rubber gromet that the pin slides into.

Now I just need to tackle the gas smell inside the truck when using heat/AC. It happened shortly after doing the spark plugs, so I'm thinking theres a vacuum leak.

But it MIGHT be time to eat crow here... these problems are due to human eror, and not bad parts.
 
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