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aww thats lame. how do you put a crank sensor on an r3??
You notch the bell housing. With the big ass headers that dave is running, you need a wrench about 1 inch long, and are able to get about 1/16 of a turn on the nut at a time. The leverge to break the bolt loose is almost impossible. If youve done it once, you could write the book.
 
Discussion starter · #183 ·
aww thats lame. how do you put a crank sensor on an r3??
Had to make a mount for it. There's no mounting boss on the R3 for the crank sensor. I'm running a 46RE, so it's already notched for it.

Just because it throws that code, doesnt mean it's that sensor, you know this!! If you arn't getting fuel pressure , there is another issue at hand. The cps is a safety shut down similar to the asd relay when something else is wrong.
Injector wiring, and fuel pump is correct? Are you able to get a current out of #1 plug wire with boot pulled out while you crank it, or an arc, or a snappy sound?
When the pcm doesn't get a signal from the crank sensor, it kills fuel and spark. Fuel pressure is good, but the pcm isn't turning the injectors on, and no spark from the coil. I'm guessing that my mount got screwed up and the sensor hit the flexplate when I was priming the engine. I'll know for sure when I get a look at the sensor.
 
Sorry, just the grille inserts. They look darker in the pic, but they're the same color as the wheels and rad support.

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This was my old setup with charcoal and silver vein powdercoating, gonna go back to a similar theme next winter:

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off topic but I dont care lol

Why is your idler pulley for the sc on a different hole then mine? If you dont mind can you take a look at my last pic and you will see what im talking about.
 
Discussion starter · #186 ·
sucks ass dave i know u were pissed!!! when do you get back???
I'll be back late on Friday, but probably won't get back in the garage till Sunday night or Monday.

off topic but I dont care lol

Why is your idler pulley for the sc on a different hole then mine? If you dont mind can you take a look at my last pic and you will see what im talking about.
I tried to use the lower hole, but then the stock tensioner would hit the spacer for the blower idler, so I had to move it up.
 
lol yeah but i checked the paxton book and thats where it looks like they wanted it i may be wrong
yeah I looked in the book too but if you notice its a completely different bracket. The hole I put it in is the only one that is threaded. I used that bolt that came with it and it would never be long enough to go completely through the bracket and into the sc.
 
Discussion starter · #191 ·
Holy shit it actually started!!!! :mullet: :mullet: :mullet: :mullet: :mullet: :mullet:

But not without a fight of course. After ordering a new crank sensor and getting it in, it still threw the 320 code. Then I realized that when I made the mount for it, I spaced it out about a 1/4" since I was worried about it hitting the flexplate. Well, it needs to be a lot closer than that, so after I adjusted the mount, it sounded like it wanted to start. Had to tweak the distributor a few times to get it to start, but she fired up and holy shit is it loud, it pretty much sounds like a full race car LOL It ran for about 15 seconds and then threw the belt. Turns out the extra idler that I had to add for the electric waterpump is a bit off. So I'll fix that tomorrow and get a new belt. Unfortunately I didn't have the video camera ready, cause I didn't think it would actually start LOL But there will be video tomorrow. :eek:nethumb:
 
Discussion starter · #196 ·
Congrats again :mullet: Think it's worth picking up two belts so you have a spare going to/coming from Carlisle? Just thinking out loud for ya.
Yup, there will be lots of extra parts and tools onboard, just in case. :eek:nethumb:

glad to hear it finally started!!!
Thanks, me too! :D
 
sweeeet. it better sound like a race car!!! its a race car motor!! we need a video to see what it really sounds like...
 
congrats:mullet: cant wait to see the video.
 
Discussion starter · #200 ·
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