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My truck is not made by a Japanese company.:nono:
There will be no parts of that sort installed.
Dude, they provide sponsorship and crew though! Check these lucky fuckers out. Went from daily driver to factory race cars.

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Ok, now I'm really fucking confused.
I'm just gonna say fuck it and have the motor done for me.
If you have a machine shop do it, have them weld up the lifter and pushrod holes, except the 2 back ones, then run a V6 intake cam over both sides of the valve train! Be sure the sprocket gear is facing the distributor. Its really easy to install them 180degrees out!
Timing is a breeze once the valve covers are installed. I use a hand held starter with the distributor coil unplugged. Crank the engine over for ~3 mins to prime the valve train at the rear of the block.
 
since blwn318 is putting the alliances speed secrets out on the web, Id thought Id contribute a few pics.

9th Injector mod (crankflex pro rates it at 17rwhp)
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DOHC conversion on a pushrod engined magnum (+55hp and 75lb ft everywhere in the rpm range!)
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2bbl Tunnel ram spacer (creates intake vortex and distributes charge evenly)
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TB you might have some issues with that DOHC you have the cam in backwards. the gear drive faces frontwards
nah... cant put that much strain on the snout of the crank! The harmonics are better at the rear of the block.

Also I need to state that Im currently waiting on my custom ground cams for the conversion. That picture was for demonstation purposes only!
 
nah... cant put that must strain on the snout of the crank! The harmonics are better at the rear of the block
Yeah, the sprint car engines run a hub between flywheel and crank bearing and use two timing belts from SRT4's to drive the cams. You have to slot the block, but no biggy.
 
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