Dakota Durango Forum banner
1 - 20 of 34 Posts

clint282cc

· Registered
Joined
·
5,471 Posts
Discussion starter · #1 ·
help me to understand. you guys all have lots of traction problems. i have ZERO.

the setup and time thats in my sig gave me nothing but traction with some 285/45/17 drag radials and even with 2" blocks in the rear.

i do notice most of you guys complaining about traction have CCs. would me having a RC make a difference?

even w/out the bottle and with regular tires on the street i could floor it from a dead stop and not even get a chirp. with the bottle it would spin alot but thats another 100 hp and if i waited a split second before i hit the button i wouldnt spin even on the street.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 2000r/t
Discussion starter · #3 ·
LOL your thread is what made me start this one. your like the 3rd guy on here who has traction problems with an all stock truck. are you sure your not spinning one wheel? cause then i could understand. but i thought all r/ts had a limited slip.
 
both of mine on street tires will spin, but as soon as I hear it, I come off the gas a right back on and it hooks fine. but I always run m/t's and never get it to spin
First time ever at the track with my r/t i did the same thing...now i just roll then floor it, and no spin...but i want to be able to floor it at the line and just go...

and both my tires spin, my friends gf took a video of my very first run and there was smoke coming off both tires
 
My traction problem is because I'm afraid of it!

I'd much rather roast my tires and have a crappy ET, than hook up, and start breaking parts. I've spent enough money already on this thing, and my wife will NOT like it if I come home on a tow truck and tell her "it's broke again" she doesn't like the idea of having spent $20K in addition to the cost of the truck, to have it sit in the driveway broke...but she also hates the idea of spending more money on it!:jester:

Then again, I'm probably making a lot more bottom end torque than most of you guys, and a 5 spd manual transmission is much harder on parts than automatics. an automatic, you can brake torque it, and somewhat "pre-load" the drivetrain so the initial launch is not so shocking, but on a clutch, you go from absolutely no load at all, to instant load, and it's more of a shock to the parts, which is more likely to snap something.
 
i spent a grand total of ~$25 to get good traction out of my CC. :mullet: on the street it's a hole different story tho. :stirthepo
$25??? :huh: ...
 
500+hp
550+ftlbs.
11.70's 1/4
7.40's 1/8
1.60's 60ft times all the time.

1988 RC
Summit adjustable drag shocks in the front.
Competition Engineering Slide-A-Link bars
Drag Radials in the Rear.
275/50R15 MT Drag Radials Set at 13psi
3.55 Gears.

Anyone having traction problems, is primarily due to poor weight transfer. Adjustible Drag Shocks From Summit in the front allows the front to come up easier resultin in the rear tires getting planted to the ground harder...cures alot of it...Caltracs or Comp Engineering Slid-A-Links Take Care of the Rest.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Ummmmm, Clint your avatar says different:funny:
lol that was good


500+hp
550+ftlbs.
11.70's 1/4
7.40's 1/8
1.60's 60ft times all the time.

1988 RC
Summit adjustable drag shocks in the front.
Competition Engineering Drag Radials in the Rear.
275/50R15 MT Drag Radials Set at 13psi
3.55 Gears.

Anyone having traction problems, is primarily due to poor weight transfer. Adjustible Drag Shocks From Summit in the front allows the front to come up easier resultin in the rear tires getting planted to the ground harder...cures alot of it...Caltracs or Comp Engineering Slid-A-Links Take Care of the Rest.

you know i didnt think of this but my truck also has the 355 gear. that probably helps me alot too.

http://vids.myspace.com/index.cfm?fuseaction=vids.individual&videoid=43297627

that video is completly floored and hitting the button right away. the only tire spin you hear is the mustang. thats with 2" drop coils and 2" blocks, stock shocks.
 
My traction problem is because I'm afraid of it!

I'd much rather roast my tires and have a crappy ET, than hook up, and start breaking parts. I've spent enough money already on this thing, and my wife will NOT like it if I come home on a tow truck and tell her "it's broke again" she doesn't like the idea of having spent $20K in addition to the cost of the truck, to have it sit in the driveway broke...but she also hates the idea of spending more money on it!:jester:

Then again, I'm probably making a lot more bottom end torque than most of you guys, and a 5 spd manual transmission is much harder on parts than automatics. an automatic, you can brake torque it, and somewhat "pre-load" the drivetrain so the initial launch is not so shocking, but on a clutch, you go from absolutely no load at all, to instant load, and it's more of a shock to the parts, which is more likely to snap something.
I can load my drivetrain just like anyone with an auto.

But I do understand what you are trying to say.
 
Also interested because I don't want you getting traction over me.:waiting:






Yeah, that's right I'm a thread stalker. lol
you bastard.. go away:funny:
 
Dumb question...Do Caltracs help with wheel spin or just wheel hop? Can you run them all the time or just at the track?

Also, what can you do to get real world traction, not just track traction?

Sorry for the thread jack.
 
Dumb question...Do Caltracs help with wheel spin or just wheel hop? Can you run them all the time or just at the track?

Also, what can you do to get real world traction, not just track traction?

Sorry for the thread jack.
the caltracs should help and some really good tires.
 
1 - 20 of 34 Posts