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Discussion starter · #22 ·
Thanks for the info Nick, I'll have to contact the rockauto rep and find out if it is the right part for sure and if it is if they come in a set of two or just one. Because if it is for tewo I'll get them from rockauto if not I'll have to get them from autozone or some other local auto parts store.
 
Discussion starter · #23 ·
Hey for everybody that was wondering about the wheel bearing "set" Nick02 was right it is actually ony one bearing so it is cheaper at vatozone. And the ones online are the ones for 2wd.
 
#24 ·
Hate to jump onto someone elses thread, hope it's kewl....

Took my '98 to get inspected, and they say my pass side wheel bearing is shot and won't pass it, and it needs replaced soon, starting to wear my tire....Have NO access to a press, limited budget, half-ass mechanically inclined....Advance Auto Parts HUB assembly = $83....AutoZone part #HA599406 = $122....Shop w/labor = $300+

HOW THE HELL would I do the bearing pressing/replacement without a press, and is it complicated???? Any help would be effing GR8....Tags due @ end of this month, and I have procrastinated enough ....Thanks again
 
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#25 ·
Same boat here. Some have stated that a block of wood and a hammer, should and would work, you just have to make sure it is in/goes in straight and even. I'm thinking of going that route. Not sure exactly on how to get the bearings out, though.
 
Discussion starter · #26 ·
staindmannstl said:
Hate to jump onto someone elses thread, hope it's kewl....

Took my '98 to get inspected, and they say my pass side wheel bearing is shot and won't pass it, and it needs replaced soon, starting to wear my tire....Have NO access to a press, limited budget, half-ass mechanically inclined....Advance Auto Parts HUB assembly = $83....AutoZone part #HA599406 = $122....Shop w/labor = $300+

HOW THE HELL would I do the bearing pressing/replacement without a press, and is it complicated???? Any help would be effing GR8....Tags due @ end of this month, and I have procrastinated enough ....Thanks again
Click to expand...
You can easily replace the hub assembly, it is putting a new wheel bearing in an old assembly that requires a machine press. If you just buy the new hub assembly you just need to take off the wheel then the caliper and rotor and from there you can access the hub assembly nut and replace the hub assembly.
 
Discussion starter · #28 ·
Hey Nick I'm finally getting around to doing this and I just looked up the Timken set49 and it was $25.99 on rockauto and it doesn't list it for our truck. I then looked up the Timken set815 and it is $50.79 but it is the part that is listed for our truck. And when i do the parts lookup for our trucks on autozone it has the Set815 listedfor our application. Just thought I would let you know this little bit of info that I just found out.
 
Discussion starter · #29 ·
#30 · (Edited)
I went through the whole "doesn’t fit a dodge Dakota” thing at AutoZone
set49 just the same exact size as the bearing inside the hub unit except the ends are tapered, they don’t list it as a Dakota part because technically the hub unit is "not serviceable"

that's kind of weird they list it as a rear wheel bearing part
the box it came in had a big stamp SET 49 on the side, it was orange the AutoZone dude had to manually go to the bearing shelf in the back and pick it out.
What I would do is go to your local AutoZone and ask for it SET 49 and take it out and look at it, it’s two bearings faced together in one other unit shell (exactly like the stock one it replaces), they tighten together when you put you’re big nut on. I guss my only advice is to go down to autozone and look at both 815 and 49 and see if they match the stock one.


as far as pushing limits with the bearings I push them all the time offroad with big tires and a lifted suspension, I’m 100% sure that set 49 will press into our hub unit and work great.
 
#31 ·
any links for the passenger side on a 4x4? I had my driver side replaced about 6 months ago and now my passenger side is acting up. I don't want to pay a small fortune again just because i don't own a press.
 
Discussion starter · #32 ·
Well that suck because the set 49 was like 25 buck and the set815 was 50. I ended up just ordering the set815 and I'm hoping thye work out okay. I should be doing this on Friday, finally.:woot: When I made tha guy price match the unit (half the price of theirs) the guy had a fit but they had to honor it. After about 10 minutes of disscussion with the counter guy he said he wouldn't do it and then I said give me your regional managers number. Needless to say it got done in about two minutes after that happened.:banana2:
 
Discussion starter · #33 ·
miles said:
any links for the passenger side on a 4x4? I had my driver side replaced about 6 months ago and now my passenger side is acting up. I don't want to pay a small fortune again just because i don't own a press.
Click to expand...
Check this link out: http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframecatalog.php?carcode=1361797&parttype=1636 I couldn't find just the bearing for your application but here is the assembly, probably the cheapest you will find it. There should also be a 5% discount code in the rockauto section on this forum.


Heres also another place with an off name brand:

http://moesperformance.com/index.ph...p?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&keyword=hub+assembly


Best I could find for the whole assembly.
 
Discussion starter · #34 ·
Hey nick can you give me a step by step on how to do this? Like how do I get the old bearing out, do I need to clean it and with what, do i regrease it? I want to get this right the first time and not have to do it again.
 
#35 ·
i just change them on my R/T...dont know how different the hub may be, but it was pretty straight foward...just have to get an air impact gun, (like the one they use on wheels..)and take the big nut out, (it says "do not reuse, but i used good thread locker.!)then start tapping out the bearing with something that has the same size of it.... took us less than 1 hour to do both between 2 guys..
and they are 50 bux each from SKF...!
 
Discussion starter · #38 ·
Cool so it's just as simple as that, pop the old one out and press the new one in.:mullet: Thanks a lot guys I will be tackling this on Friday I hope all goes smooth.
 
Discussion starter · #39 ·
Hey Guys I did my bearings last Friday and it was pretty straight forward for anyone looking to do it, and it saved me atleast $100 bucks:woot:. just take the hub assembly off, remove the snap ring (PITA), press the old one out, wipe out the old grease, coat the assembly with a little bit of new grease, press the new bearing in, and replace the snap ring (also a PITA). I wouldn't recommend that you try to do this without a press like with a hammer and a block of wood. When the old bearing popped out it exploded out of the assembly:mullet:.


I'm glad I did this because when I took the hub assembly off and shook it the bearings sounded like a rattle. It's all better there is no more play in the wheels and the truck handles better too. I'm glad I finally fixed this.
 
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mthandt
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