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Then I agree with trying the 24Lb'ers. Get that fuel in there man before you need to be thinking about a new motor instead of new injectors.
 
The A/F numbers you got were probably from a tailpipe probe, and after the cat? It's probably not as bad as it looks on the chart.

You can influence the A/F quite a bit by bumping your fuel sync just a little bit.
It might be all you need. Mark the distributor's present location exactly (at the base where the hold-down is), then loosen it and rotate it counterclockwise by about 1/8" from the marked location. You'd be surprised at how much extra fuel that gives it in the upper rpm ranges. Although, I would get the new injectors anyway - simply because the Seimens injectors don't tolerate the higher fuel pressures very well. Especially when compared to the Bosch injectors.
 
I can sell you the my entire paxton fuel system if you are interested. It would definitly take care of your fuel problems and you would actually be able to tune it without getting a flash. PM me if your interested

fuel regulator
aux fuel pump
air hat
aux injectors
paxton fuel controller
 
Huh?
I changed to bigger injectors had a problem with it being pig rich at idle and cruise. The PCM never did correct for it. It would make your eyes tear up if you fired it up in the garage.
I went from stock injectors to 24# injectors, and still maintained a 14.7 afr at idle and cruise. WOT allowed me to run a tad less fuel pressure, and still richin it up.
 
After talking to sean yesterday.. I asked him how I should do my dataloggs for him to be most effective. He said 2nd gear pulls. So it appears that you were dyno'd in the correct geat.
Thats strange I work part time at Redline and have run ther dynojet and have never ever seen a car dynoed in the wrong gear. Should always be run on a 1.1 ratio whichever gear that is for the vehicle.
 
Discussion starter · #50 ·
3rd gear is 1:1 on our trucks.

Here is a copy and paste explanation I got from someone where I asked the question:

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I am going to guess that you were on a Dynojet Inertia dyno, not a Load Cell style. On the inertia dynos it uses the accelleration rate of the drum, the diameter of the drum, and the weight of the drum, and the RPM of the vehicle to give HP and Torque numbers. It doesn't really matter what gear you are in. The higher the gear ration the quicker the drum will accellerate BUT the quicker you will let off. We run a Dynojet 224 inertia dyno and we have a few automatic cars we run in 2nd, due to downshifting and speed limiter issues. The manual transcars we usually run in 3rd.
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3rd gear is 1:1 on our trucks.

Here is a copy and paste explanation I got from someone where I asked the question:

-----------------------------
I am going to guess that you were on a Dynojet Inertia dyno, not a Load Cell style. On the inertia dynos it uses the accelleration rate of the drum, the diameter of the drum, and the weight of the drum, and the RPM of the vehicle to give HP and Torque numbers. It doesn't really matter what gear you are in. The higher the gear ration the quicker the drum will accellerate BUT the quicker you will let off. We run a Dynojet 224 inertia dyno and we have a few automatic cars we run in 2nd, due to downshifting and speed limiter issues. The manual transcars we usually run in 3rd.
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That doesn't make sense, except to prove my point.
To paraphrase: It says it'll spin the drum up quicker in 2nd and that it uses the rate of the drums acceleration to calculate the HP.
<scratches head> :huh:
 
I know for me when sean was helping tune my jeep it is just easier to get through 2nd gear but to get all the way through 3rd you would be really hauling ass up the road. Sorry MR. ploice man I was tuning!!!!!
 
Funny you said that. I got pulled over while tuning one time and told the cop that I was tuning and he let me go. lol I wasn't going outrageously fast or anything, but I think it was like 60-65 in a 45.
 
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