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blaindsmith

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Discussion starter · #1 ·
I wanted to start a new thread from my previous one here: http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54220

I tested the alternator and batter which both passed just fine. Check all he grounds which were fine and I called the paint shop and asked if they unhooked anything and they didn't.

Here is what happens now...

Start the truck and it idles fine. I unhook the battery and the truck still runs fine BUT now the radios power goes in and out flickering. I hook the battery back up and still acts up.

Gauge still reads 18V. When I have the radio on and I use the lights or blinkers the power dies to the radio and the truck bogs down.

My dad and I are baffled. Next stop is a friend of mines shop.
 
#2 ·
blaindsmith said:
I wanted to start a new thread from my previous one here: http://www.dakota-durango.com/forum/showthread.php?t=54220

I tested the alternator and batter which both passed just fine. Check all he grounds which were fine and I called the paint shop and asked if they unhooked anything and they didn't.

Here is what happens now...

Start the truck and it idles fine. I unhook the battery and the truck still runs fine BUT now the radios power goes in and out flickering. I hook the battery back up and still acts up.

Gauge still reads 18V. When I have the radio on and I use the lights or blinkers the power dies to the radio and the truck bogs down.

My dad and I are baffled. Next stop is a friend of mines shop.
Click to expand...
If your alt is putting out 18V, then it's overcharging and will cause some weird things to happen! Should be no more than 14.5V.
 
Discussion starter · #5 ·
Ok we hooked up a multimeter to the battery terminals.

Off: 12.95V
Idle: 14.00V

What other connections should I test before I bring it down to my buddy? Trying to get as much info as possible before I bring it to him.
 
#6 ·
blaindsmith said:
Ok we hooked up a multimeter to the battery terminals.

Off: 12.95V
Idle: 14.00V

What other connections should I test before I bring it down to my buddy? Trying to get as much info as possible before I bring it to him.
Click to expand...
Check the voltage output of the alt with the radio and blinkers on and see what numbers you get. What type of radio do you have? Who did the install? Amplifiers?
 
#8 ·
blaindsmith said:
Stock radio.

Idle nothing on: 14.00V
Idle radio on: 14.00V
Idle lights on: 13.80V
Idle radio and lights on: 13.80V
Click to expand...
Nothing wrong with those readings! Check ALL your body ground wires. You may have one loose or corroded. You have a positive ground system and a loose ground will cause a lot of problems.

That's the only other thing I can think of that may be causing your problems. Let us know what you find out.
 
#10 ·
blaindsmith said:
Thanks for the help. I'll recheck them again and see what I can find.

Is the volt meter still supposed to read 14 when the truck is off and the battery is not hooked up?
Click to expand...
umm..I gotta assume that was just the voltmeter on the battery, or maybe you unhooked the ground and then checked using the positive connection and another grounding source? ? I didnt think there could be a charge on the electrical system w/o the battery hooked up and the truck turned off. :huh:
 
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Discussion starter · #11 ·
SHiVMan R/T said:
umm..I gotta assume that was just the voltmeter on the battery, or maybe you unhooked the ground and then checked using the positive connection and another grounding source? ? I didnt think there could be a charge on the electrical system w/o the battery hooked up and the truck turned off. :huh:
Click to expand...
I should have been more clear with this. The gauge in the truck is reading 14 while the truck is off and they key is not in the ignition.
 
Discussion starter · #12 ·
Ok I talked to my mechanic friend and he said I should look at the "multi function switch" at the base of the steering column inside the cab. I guess this is where all the connections come through for the radio, gauges, lights, turn signals.

This could need replacing. Dodge seems to call this the Central Timer Module.
 
#13 ·
blaindsmith said:
Ok I talked to my mechanic friend and he said I should look at the "multi function switch" at the base of the steering column inside the cab. I guess this is where all the connections come through for the radio, gauges, lights, turn signals.

This could need replacing. Dodge seems to call this the Central Timer Module.
Click to expand...
They are two totally different things. The multi-function switch is your turn signal lever and it has all the controls for your headlights, tail lights, turn signals, etc. The central timer controls all your delay functions such as the interior lights, wiper delay, security, etc.
 
Discussion starter · #14 ·
bwdakrt said:
They are two totally different things. The multi-function switch is your turn signal lever and it has all the controls for your headlights, tail lights, turn signals, etc. The central timer controls all your delay functions such as the interior lights, wiper delay, security, etc.
Click to expand...
Oh I'm pretty sure when he said multi function switch he ment the CTM because when he said to check that out he mention to be careful if I had an airbag.

The CTM also stores DTCs and I used to have one about my o2 sensor but not anymore so maybe its a faulty CTM, but I would need a DRBIII scan tool to be sure.
 
Discussion starter · #16 ·
bwdakrt said:
Did you get the PM for the link to the FSM? :huh:
Click to expand...
Ah yes I did. I thought I PMed you back about it, sorry about that. Thats how I came up with it being the CTM since that seems to be controlling a lot of the internal functions within the cab. My brothers had burned up before and he had issues with flickering stuff and his car bogging down.
 
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blaindsmith
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