[SPLAudioHz]

Like it says. Driving normal is fine but when I tun onto a hwy and need to GO it shuts it self off. I have replaced everything the stealership said to and it still does it. Too many parts to list so please post ANY ideas no matter how dumb it may sound (pertaining to this issue) so I can figure this out. We have invested 4k into trying to find this problem and it is still doing it.

Jesse

 

[suprchgd99rango]

my buddy had the same problem wit his dads old dak that got handed down to him....he sold it before he figured it out lol

 

[Rebel13]

Any codes? What motor you got?

 

[l1tech]

Does it shut off like instantly or does it stumble a bit and then die? Does it restart immediately or does it have to crank for a bit? By GO do you mean only when you floor it suddenly? What engine do you have? Can I assume that you have ALOT more audio equipment hooked up than the normal person does? What has been replaced to try and solve the problem?

Sorry about all the ?? but your original post is VERY vague

 

[SPLAudioHz]

Does it shut off like instantly or does it stumble a bit and then die? Does it restart immediately or does it have to crank for a bit? By GO do you mean only when you floor it suddenly? What engine do you have? Can I assume that you have ALOT more audio equipment hooked up than the normal person does? What has been replaced to try and solve the problem?

Sorry about all the ?? but your original post is VERY vague

It shuts off like you turn off the key, no stuttering or struggling. It restarts immediately with out any trouble, less than one crank. GO>anything more than easing on the accelerator slowly to get up to speed. It is a 5.2 with 40k on it. Replaced parts:
Tranny and TC, 3 times
Exhaust (the whole exhaust) 2wice
Brain
Air Intake Ctrl unit 2wice
fuel pump and lines
plugs, wire, cap, rotor
MSD starter and ignition system
Battery and terminals
Engine harness
Alarm system (just in case it was the kill start safety security feature)
Other stuff that does not contribute to its running, but what the heak:
Brakes (every aspect of the brake system)
shocks
tie rods in and out
ball joints
wheel bearings
head gaskets

no sound system yet. that is this weekened

 

[l1tech]

Is this the same vehicle that was shuting off as soon as you put it in reverse and the brakes were "locking up"??

 

[SPLAudioHz]

No, different truck

 

[addicted2blue00]

loose battery terminals? check the wires to the battery, do you have a strap on the battery?

 

[addicted2blue00]

i had something similar, leavin work and i was goin down a hill and hit the brakes to stop for the stop sign and the truck just died out, battery slide a hair and the main wire comin from the fuse box lost its touch with the battery

 

[SPLAudioHz]

Two new batts stacked and separated by an isolator, so if one fails the other picks up like nothing ever happened.

 

[Rebel13]

You need to check all your censors. Espeacilly TPS and MAP. If it is under throttle it is already isolated. Most of what you replaced couldn't even possibly be connected to this problem. Worse comes to worse, it may be the PCM.

 

[SPLAudioHz]

Very cool. Censors are checking out fine, but that doesn't mean thay cant hiccup. I will replace the PCM just in case.

 

[addicted2blue00]

check the pin outs at the pcm

 

[99RTPM]

I haven't seen any mention of the Dealer do any testing or even breathing on the cam or crank sensors & wiring for the crank sensor. which were both major headaches on Jeeps and Dodges those years.

Give the crank sensor harness a little tug (it runs to the bell housing on the top of the tranny behind and below the distributor) when its running and see if its stumbles. Can also be the air gap on the sensor if its not bolted in far enough. New ones have a felt spacer on them that rips off to leave the correct space after install.
A common prob was an oil leak on the sensor from the oil pressure switch and the oil shorted the harness and sensor esp on the Jeeps. one reason why Mopar made a connector pkg to fix them back then

 

[SPLAudioHz]

New clue, we discovered it ONLY happens on right hand turns if going too fast.

 

[l1tech]

You have a wire shorting somewhere. With the msd ignition that you have in there adn also the battery setup you got going on and whatever else electricial you have wired up I don't think the problem is going to be common to anybody. First thing I would check is the power to the coil as the problem happens, if it is ok then move on to the injectors and then to the pcm. My guess would be something ignition related though as that is the only thing that would really make the engine shut off instantly. If it happens on a regular basis and it was a monitored item such as a crank or cam sensor I would think that it would set a hard fault code or at least a pending code, you would need a global scanner to read a pending code.

 

[Five9Dak]

Try a different pcm, we've had jeeps pulls this kinda crap. Not many sensors will shut the motor down cold.

 

[6shooter]

have you tried turning to the right while the truck is stationary and seeing if it does it? is it a momentum while turning thing, or just a turning to the right thing? if you try it stationary, try it at idle, then at half throttle to make sure its not a problem dependent on RPM, that it is actually from momentum.

 

[SPLAudioHz]

Test #3 concluded it is a momentum thing. With out fail it died.

 

[6shooter]

Test #3 concluded it is a momentum thing. With out fail it died.

then its gotta be something loose thats hitting a loose/bare wire and shorting out for long enough to kill the truck. your sure your battery is held down securely, and youve checked around steering components to make sure they dont hit on something periodically? the only doing it while steering to the right thing is really confusing me :huh: